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Pics 05 axles 02 truck.

17K views 83 replies 17 participants last post by  Aaron S 
#1 ·
Pics.
 

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#2 ·
Icon 2.5 inch springs, 4 inch ouo traction blocks without the traction part right now.
 

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#3 ·
35-12.5-17 duratrac 17-9 sidebiters that stick out to far and hit the inner fender.

The rear brake hoses connected up. Swapped the speed sensors from old axle to new because the connector looked different. The parking brake cables connected up perfectly.

All of the holes but one are allready in the frame for the coil buckets, I just drilled them out larger so I could use 16mm bolts in the side holes and 12mm bolts in the bottom holes.

There are holes in the frame for the 2wd trucks radius arm brackets. I used two of the more centered holes on the radius arm brackets and lined them up with the two holes in the frame. Using those two holes caused the bottom of the radius arm brackets to sit about a quarter of an inch off of the bottom of the frame. I ended up cutting the frame of the 05 truck whrere the bottom of the brackets attach and used it as a spacer. It did pull the brackets down a little to far but seemed better than going up and having to drill out half the holes. The alignment shop tells me the axle is straight under the truck.

I just bent the hard brake lines up so they would attach at the front.

The front drive shaft and rear drive shaft connected without problem.

Had to ream out the pitman arm to connect the drag link ball joint.

Was not able to use the steering dampner because of the radiator hoses.

Had to drill ream out one hole for the panhard bracket and drill all of the others.

I havent driven the truck yet because i need to replace a tie rod end and install the steering dampners.

Still have an abs light, hopefully once I get the right front speed sensor connected it will go out.

If you have any questions, ask away.

Aaron
 
#31 ·
Aaron did you have much trouble bending the front brake lines? I was looking at cutting the lines and reflairing them. Did you use the stock lines to the caliper? If you can can you post some photos.

Have worked all the bugs out and how does it drive

Thanks
Dana
 
#5 ·
Still has the 02 rear leafs minus the top overloads.

Il tell you how it rides once I get the tie rod end replaced and the steering stabilizers on.
 
#7 ·
So I am not crazy. I've been given this transformation some serious thought on my 68k miles 02 F350 4x4 drw. If I do do it, and I think at some point I will, I'm thinking of going to the F450 axles and run the 19.5s. I'm interested in seeing how much better those front coils ride better than the leafs. Keep us posted.
 
#8 ·
I done all this to my 2wd 2000 it is now a 4wd with a 2006 front axle, 05 steering gear box, got about 35,000 miles on the conversion.... not one problem yet. I run the dual skyjacker clamp to axle steering stabilizer kit on mine, inexpensive and works great.
 
#9 ·
As far as ride quality goes, I will say it is a slightly better ride. I can see why Cary recomends the four link though.

If you hit a bump that catches both front tires at the same time it is smoother, but if the bump or hole only catches one of the front tires the whole truck takes the hit, as in the front axle wont articulate. Thats what I feel like is happening. Maybe the four link or ouo link arms would eliminate that feeling.

Seems like there is more bump steer than before.

There is something wrong on the front that is making the wheel not return to center. Either the toe in is off or its the tightness I felt in the front end after installing the icon alignment cams is causing a bind.

The truck definitely feels more solid. When I would come to a stop before I could always feel the front axle moving around from what i felt was spring wrap. That movement is gone now. I also felt that the front springs wraping caused the truck to bounce while driving before aswell. Hopefully that will be gone too.

Aaron
 
#10 ·
i just finished swapping an 07 axle on to my 01 tonight. I'm VERY impressed with the turning radius, you hear people talk about how great it is but you cant really understand it until you see it. I went with the BDS 8"4link kit. I ran into the same problem with the steering being off. I opted to cut the drag link and lengthen it (sleeve and plug welded) by 2.5" this way i could keep my steering wheel aligned correctly. I had a 6" lift prior to this, so i used that drop pit-man arm and just drilled it out. All in all i had to drill 2 holes to install the coil buckets, 2 holes for the 4link brackets, and 3holes for the cross arm drop.
I opted to not put on the 8" rear springs because i have a road armor bumper & 12k winch on the front that causes it to sag a little, i have 13 3/8" tire to wheel well in the front and 11 3/4" in the rear. Probally will do OUO traction block with an extra inch than what i have now.

$1000 07 front axle w/steering & coil buckets
$2000 BDS 8" 4link kit part number 530H
$100 steel for new steering, misc nuts/bolts/fluids, factory coil spacers
------
$3050 bad ass swap
 
#11 ·
how about some pics of the setup like the radius arm mount and stuff.
 
#13 ·
On a 4 link I did not think death wobble was an issue? Have no facts on it just what I got from the way people talked.
 
#15 ·
On the 8" BDS info page, they say "with 10" of wheel travel there is less than 1 degree of caster change (front axle rotation), this means control in the steering wheel over rough terrain" so i did not think i would have any castor problem. Im waiting on my dual steering stabilizer setup to show up, and still researching possible solutions if that doesnt work. WC Motorsports makes an adjustable track bar that the tech on the phone said " weve installed over 500 and cured the death wobble on every one" look at the set up, IMO it makes sense why it would work so good, but its 3x more$$$ than ICON.
 
#16 ·
Stock the '05's up do not have enough Castor stock..thats why Castor shims are used on level kits and drop brackets are used on taller lifts. Using 4 link arms allow additional castor..I set them to 5* min.

We have the custom mounted adj track bar systems also but first check the basics..
 
#17 ·
i found out what was causing my death wobble.. the factory 21mm bolt holding the track bar to the frame mount has about 1/16" slop. That may not sound like much but 1/16" on all sides is a 1/8" slop left to right. I bought a 7/8" drill bit and 4 1/2x 7/8 bolt and drilled out the eye on the track bar and the aftermarket BDS track bar drop braket. Now there is ZERO slop and no more wobble. I couldnt beleive ford would put in a bolt that was too small so i went to B&R auto wreckers and took one off their truck. Same bolt same slop...... Way to go ford :bsflag:
 
#18 ·
I am in the process of the same conversion on my 02. Did you change out the rear end as well? I have been told that the front end is 1.5 inchs wider than my 02.

Thanks
 
#19 ·
I do not have a 05+ but in looking at whats going on (i.e. video, descriptions, steering and suspension setup) I think a hydro assist would likely go a long way in stopping many of those wobble issues people have the are not from overly worn parts and even then greatly reducing it. With a proper mounted system I can not see the wobble being allowed to start. If you watch high speed video of the wobble taking place it starts as a very small and short shimmy and very quickly turns into this violent 50% of turn shake that from video almost looks like a unit bearing exploded :doh:. To me it would seem that the hydro would never allow that shimmy to occur and certainly not allow it to progress in the first place regardless of how the suspension first reacts to an single wheel road irregularity hit.

You can do a DIY steering hydro assist setup using your current gear box and pump for about $250-$300. The fact that going to dual stabilizers many times takes care of, or greatly reduces this, until they start to wear out I think points to hydro assist taking care of this issue long term. No it does not address the root geometry cause but it provides what I would think to be a permanent solution for the issue. I can not imagine the accelerated wear your ball joints, unit bearings and all the rest of the steering parts suffer from when this takes place especially if its happening repeatedly.

Anyways something to think about maybe
 
#20 ·
I changed out the rear axle as well from the same coil sprung truck that I got the front axle from.
 
#21 ·
Keep saying it...add more castor 2x's spec. and make sure track bar is tight..

'05 up little bigger brakes and '08 up rear has a wider track
 
#22 ·
i didnt change the rear axle either. You cant really tell any difference but i think if i get some extra$ down the road i will. I am also VERY intrested in the hydro steer. Ive been looking at thread and will probaly make the investment in a couple months. ANy suggestions on kits....
 
#23 ·
PM sent



West Texas Offroad for ram assist Kits
 
#28 ·
How does it drive and can you tell the front axcel is wider?
 
#26 ·
Cary, are you saying the rear axle on a 08 truck is wider than and 06 truck?

I dont know whats different between the trucks, but I wish the radius arm brackets would have bolted right up for me. Maybe different year brackets have different hole patterns, and its not the frame?
 
#27 ·
Its the frame...I don't think and frame from '04 down will have all the holes. Yes the '08 rear axle is wider...at least compared to the '07 I put in a '95
 
#29 ·
it " floats" down the road. I'm not sure if its from not installing the sway bar or just the coils but it has a very light feel when cruising. The steering is AMAZING!!! MUch sharper. Im getting an alignment tomarrow and will see then about installing more camber. It veers to the right a little and im hoping the alignment and checking PSI in the tires will help. Knowing what i know now i wouldnt have bought the dual steering stabilizers and bought the hydro assist, one because i wouldnt have to ever worry about steering shimmy and two, because turning 38's against the dual steering stabilizers is not a two finger job...
 
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