Hey guys im trying to figure out what the heck to do with my truck it absolutely destroys Carrier bearings and u joints, the u joints are less than a year old and the carrier bearing only has 10k miles on it and is already destroyed again... What else could be wrong thats causing these damn things to continually go out? what am i missing here? Anyone got ideas or parts suggestions... Thanks a ton Guys
The two main causes of these types of problems are usually
Driveshaft is bent or
Universal joints are installed out of phase.
When it was reinstalled were the driveshafts lined up properly?
I thought this was an intelligent question, maybe not. Reason is, with a lift , you have changed the angle of your drive shaft. The lift blocks, if used "should" have had the angle taken into consideration. I don't have the facts or figures without spending a day searching, but there is a fix to get that stock angle back to some degree. You can shim the carrier bearing downward to reduce the rear driveshaft angle, but at the same time, it increases the angle of the front one. Seems I recall with a 2" over stock lift on a 2001 SC, LB, it was a 1/4" shim you would use. Not hard to fab up one. Just get some flat stock and drill some holes, and mount between the carrier bearing housing and crossmember.
No lift on the rear, just factory 350 blocks, so i dont think it should be changing the angle of the drive shaft, and when the drive shaft was pulled apart last time im positive it went back together the same way.... I dont know if the shaft is bent but i dont see any reason it would be but i suppose i could have it checked out again... I think it may be like Arisley was sayin and just my name haunting me as when i went to get new u joints the truck lost the oring in the EBPV and pissed out all its damn oil and is not dead again lol
I think i have always had a problem but i dont know... it destroys carrier bearings the first time i replaced the carrier bearing i put a used drive shaft in it and all new u joints cuz apparently mine was junk said the drive shaft shop... so since then its destroyed another carrier bearing about a year later this was about 6 months ago, so i replaced the carrier bearing with an oem ford one this time and now as it sits im pretty sure the u joints are bad again and i know the carrier bearing is not in great shape, and im not 100% sure but it feels like there is slop in the drive shaft slip part as well now.... I really dont know what the deal is...
Sounds to me like you are getting really bad leaf wrap that is pointing the pinion toward the sky on hard take offs and that is what is destroying you U joints and carrier. AS a 99 those spring are I am sure fairly fatigued and likely make the wrap worse. The taller the blocks the more wrap as well. Add some power and bigger tires and its that much worse.
IMO get some good traction bars and seed what happens. Maybe ones that combine the block with the bars. Or not both will work well. If the drive shaft is striaght and the pinion and carrier is at the correct angle only way I see this happening is from wrap which a traction bar will fix.
Here is basically a stock truck with and without traction bars. I think you can see how this can grenade a U joint carrier drive shaft now add more power and load
Good video. I just don't get what the forktruck was all about.
I like the statement at the end, even though it was hard to catch the whole thing, something about building your truck to be used.
i have had the same problem i was using ujoints with grease fittings and they would last for a while an then the cap would start spinning in the collar, i replaced a few put in a new yoke and a new carrier bearing and still had a problem I always had one cap on the ujoint that would not get grease I switched to a non greaseable ujoint and have been lucky for a while hope this helps
The part with the forklift was to show that it did still allow the axles to fully articulate and travel through its full range without the trac bars limiting or causing binding.
You need traction bars plain and simple IMO. If you are running blocks in the rear at all I suggest the OUO traction blocks which is a block track bar combo. They are some of the best you can get and likely tested more than any others. Truck Toyz is the main distributor for them and a sponsor here.
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