I wouldnt say they are weak but they arent all that great. I have heard its more costly to have a TTB and have to keep throwing ball joints at it, alingments, and numorus other parts. My biggest thing is that it makes the truck look retarded when you lift one with a TTB, I mean why would you want a half independent/half solid axle with 3 u-joints?
They may be but when you compare between the two the d50 tends to get weak(axle pivot point) from the weight of the 7.3. I got lucky and found a deal on a d60, between that and how much it was going to cost to brings my TTB back to a better state there was no questions about it, Im gonna do a 60 swap.
I would if I could find one either around north dakota, or around southern California. That way I could experiment with putting D60 spindles and stuff on it, or I could have my builder mess around with it. Thats more why I was asking in here because I was going to see if it is really needed to put the d60 stuff in. I just plan on using the stock setting on my chip if I do an wheeling with it, I figured that some of you guys have these nice high HP trucks have broken stuff wheeling haha
Yeah anything you want to know about it, he is a friend of mine. If you have the time, here is a long build thread on the website I spend most of my time on (26,000 posts lol)
I did. I freaking roasted mine launching on the drag strip. Broke the center U joint and then toasted the slip joint shaft after it bound up after the joint broke. 60 is going in this week
The D50 TTB sucks because it is a poor design. If we had coil springs instead of the leafs it would be more manageable.
Because for a leaf spring to compress it has to get longer and to droop it has to get shorter. The Problem being that with the TTB fastened to the frame in the middle, the Leafs cannot extend and contract properly. They twist because that is the only way for them to get longer and shorter. The twisting, over time, shortens the overall length of the spring thereby lowering the truck and putting it out of alignment
Now, the twisting is also translated through the beams to the TTB bushings which tend to wear very quickly in this application.
The twisting, damage to TTB bushing and leaf spring bushings causes the truck to no keep an alignment and ride very harshly, because as the ride height is lowered, the wheel travel is severely limited.
I've see trucks with 40,000mi since a complete rebuild with new springs have as little as 1/2" between the axle and the bumpstops.
1/2" of wheel travel makes for a super harsh ride and the associated costs in bushings and ball joints from the poor alignment and jarring ride can drive many owners to swap the the Dana 60 or get rid of the truck.
I have broken many U-joints and Ball joints on mine, which made me swap it out.
The D50 TTB sucks because it is a poor design. If we had coil springs instead of the leafs it would be more manageable.
Because for a leaf spring to compress it has to get longer and to droop it has to get shorter. The Problem being that with the TTB fastened to the frame in the middle, the Leafs cannot extend and contract properly. They twist because that is the only way for them to get longer and shorter. The twisting, over time, shortens the overall length of the spring thereby lowering the truck and putting it out of alignment
Now, the twisting is also translated through the beams to the TTB bushings which tend to wear very quickly in this application.
The twisting, damage to TTB bushing and leaf spring bushings causes the truck to no keep an alignment and ride very harshly, because as the ride height is lowered, the wheel travel is severely limited.
I've see trucks with 40,000mi since a complete rebuild with new springs have as little as 1/2" between the axle and the bumpstops.
1/2" of wheel travel makes for a super harsh ride and the associated costs in bushings and ball joints from the poor alignment and jarring ride can drive many owners to swap the the Dana 60 or get rid of the truck.
I have broken many U-joints and Ball joints on mine, which made me swap it out.
:whs: I think that is the best way to describe it. I know a plow with a TTB is just a bad idea, alot of F250s around here run them. Even with a helper spring the plow bracket will ride about an inch off the ground & usually scrape in reverse. I sold a drivers side arm to the local Ford dealer to replace a broken one on a county plow truck. It cracked to the left of the leaf springs, they bought a replacement from another place but that had been rewelded too. :doh: So I walked out of the shop with $75 in my pocket.
Sweet, good to know I need to beef that up. I was planning on doing a 35 spline slip yoke with a high end u-joint. Any chance you have some pictures? I would love to see where exactly it broke.
I just pulled the 50 out from under my truck. The center bushings were toast and the right side casing was starting to distort where the bushing rides.
This is on a truck with 114k miles that has had a very pampered life.
The TTB belongs in the trash. This is the bracket for the passanger side beam. I bought the truck used and within the first 80 miles I swapped a D60. The thing was held in by 1 bolt.
How happy are people once they switch to a d60? I have two 97 f250s and am really wantin to put a d60 in my new one. My main concern is steering. Mine tracks straight, just the steering never feels "right" sometimes it gets alittle tough and tight, sometimes its loose and alittle sloppy. I just like the longevity of a d60, not fighting ball joints, tie rods, and all that good stuff. I would much rather spend the money once and be done with it. Any thoughts? thanks.
i snapped the pinion off my d50 while sled pulling, my rear snapped putting all the pressure on the front and it snapped clean off, i have the whole thing sitting here
Were you in 4wd low also? (I obviously no nothing about sled pulls). Interesting to hear that though, but I am not surprised it happened either if the rear broke off.
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