I appears as though the automatic F650 lower dash piece fill fit, ie it will clear the ZF6 shift lever.
Pretty sure it won't clear from what I have read, but so you don't have to rest solely on my word alone, take a look at the pics in this thread,
F650 dash mod - Powerstroke Nation Particularly post #24, shows all measurements taken off the dash for the protrusion of the F650 piece. Plus, its not a huge deal but with the automatic panel you would need to rotate your stock heater controls 90°
EDIt: I see Alex beat me to the F650 details LOL darn my slow/ long winded typing.
Do they come in tan ? Does anyone have a part number ? My dealer hates it when I ask them to look something up.
I know some of the part numbers have been posted, and others might know them, if not I can try and look them up on here, or search for F650 in this particular section and you should pull up a few threads that have the PN's
Also I am pretty sure you will have to dye/paint the panel. Most all of the sponsors here who carry/sell gauge pods will be able to get you a can that will match your panels. I personally used a SEM interior "dye" on my lower panel in the pic above, as well as on my gauge pod and center console and it matches perfectly.
jdc nice links. Thanks. Wanna share what you learned when fiberglassing your dash ? I appear to have some of that work in my future.
Your welcome, I am only here to help out as best I can lol
First off, if you don't have one, buy a Dremel (or equivalent) I love mine and wouldn't have done half the work to my truck if I didn't have one. From sanding, to cutting various things they are invauluable.
I am not expert, however I find fiberglassing to be quite easy and straight forward. I was VERY intimidated with it before I started, but after reading/searching tons of pages and seeing what other guys were doing I decided to jump in and its pretty fun I think.
Things you will need on hand other than the fiberglass resin and mat will be:
latex gloves
mixing cups, many say to use cheap solo cups, but I actually like the mixing cups from lowes/home depot just make sure to clean out the excess resin when you are done, then when it hardens you can break the rest out.
disposable/cheap paint brushes, this is what you will use to spread the resin, its a mix of painting and dabbing. You want to dab it into the mat to make sure it completely soaks in. I picked up a box of 20-30 or so 2" brushes from harbor freight for only a couple bucks. You will also use the brushes to work out any possible air bubbles from the mat/resin as you are working it. If you can't get the bubbles out, for ultimate strength, you should cut out the bubbled area and then relay some mat/resin over it. The total number of layers will depend on what you are making and the size of it, about 2-4 should be good for most interior items, structural or subwoofer boxes and such would be better with around 7+ layers. I think my little pod has something around 5 or more, and I could easily stand on it without it even flexing.
Next depending on what your building/forming you may need to have some cloth. Basically for this the only requirements are stretchable and porous. Basically t-shirts and cheap fleece blankets work great, key is cheap, whatever you can get your hands on. Cut it up and stretch it over your form and bind it so it holds its shape.
if the item your building doesn't work that way and you need it on some sort of a mold, then aluminum foil works GREAT for a release agent, or use plenty of blue painters tape (2 layers criss-cross at least) and then add some simple wax as your release agent.
Once you have your rough item comes the more tricky part. Finishing the item requires a good amount of sanding depending on how rough you leave it, and depending on what your final finish will be (textured paint, gloss paint, carpeted, vinyl, ect) Once you get it sanded pretty smooth you can move onto applying some "bondo" Evercoat Rage Gold is toted as being the absolute best to work with, can be tricky to find and pricey but is said to layout the best and require the least amount of glazing putty for minor imperfections. Once the bondo is all smoothed out you can move onto finishing.
For adding texture (similar to your dash) use this product,
SEM Texture Coating - RW Mallon Auto Paint & Equipment can purchase it from many places, that just happened to be the first link google pulled up. This stuff is pretty tricky to use properly but works pretty good. Varying distance of the can from the item, as well as how you spray and if/how you sand/level it out in the end will all vary the final product and is truely a skill. After that you can simply apply your paint to match over the texture and you will be good.
That about covers most all that I can think of off the top of my head. Having a solid game plan and knowing the materials and tools to use certainly helps it out.