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EGR delete.....CHEAP

36K views 28 replies 23 participants last post by  Fox Hunt 
#1 ·
Ok, somebody help me out with this. I have had my truck for nearly 8 years. 7 1/2 of those i have had my EGR unplugged. 6 1/2 of those I have had my EGR deleted, and I did it for $1.25. The egr cooler has a problem with failures after multiple heat cycles and when it fails, it leaks coolant into the intake. Its got two openings, one in the back from the exhaust, and one in the front going to the intake. I took it off, Cut out and welded the up pipe, (not necessary) and stuck a freeze plug in both ends. Been that way for 6 1/2 years. Conversing with a guy who makes EGR deletes the other day he tells me, that won't work??????

Ok, why? Lets say the EGR cooler fails, they fail on the inside leaking in to the intake right? Mine has a freeze plug there, it can't leak into it, nor can it leak out the back side. if it leaks, it simply fills the EGR cooler up, but its contained by the freeze plugs on each end. It simply becomes a reservoir. Its also still there in case DOT or your state does an inspection. Someone please tell me where my flaw is, because I certainly can't see it and I like the 1.25 plus my time price.
 
#2 ·
I have only seen one of using that method fail. And thats because his freeze plug actually melted as a result of heat cycles
 
#6 ·
Nice!!!! Not really an argument there. Obviously it HAS been working. Name of he game is to eliminate the possibility of coolant getting into your intake via the egr system. Where is the problem? Cut it off, block it off, hack it up, reroute everything ........ Long as the end result is the same.
 
#10 ·
Same idea tim. Except I had a guy tig weld some stainless instead of the freeze plugs. I talked to a shop local to me when I lived in lubbock and they wanted to fill the cooler with jb weld and put freeze plugs.... I passed on that idea. Seen to much go wrong when you use jb weld.
 
#11 ·
I used a burnt Intake valve out of a cj428 for the exhaust side. It fit in there pretty good with some slight modifications. Im with you if you have both ends sealed off I dont see how it could cause any problems.
 
#13 ·
iv heard of guys doing this both ways welding up stock coolers and installing a delete kit. iv only installed the kits.

i like the kit a lot better so if you half to do a stc fitting you wont half to pull the intake it makes it super easy.
 
#17 ·
I simply just dont want any of that crap in my engine bay anymore. Full deletes can be had for less than $200 now...

You are right though, yours has proven itself so who's to say it's wrong?
 
#18 ·
I have probably welded up a couple hundred coolers in the last couple of years just as Dalpilot explained. I have never had one come back. We started doing this a long time ago before delete kits were readily available let alone affordable. While I would rather just install a delete kit, we still weld up many stock trucks that are running stock power and want everything to look factory. (company/fleet trucks, etc.)

The exhaust inlet on the cooler takes a 34MM freeze plug. This will fit right down in the cooler. The intake side of the cooler is 1 1/8 or 29MM. The trick on the exhaust side to make the plugs take the heat is to recess them into the cooler about an 1/8 of an inch and then fill the space back up with weld. Once you grind it off flat, the weld will take the heat. The plug just serves as a place to build your weld up from.

The other low buck way we tried a long time ago is to cut the intake side of the cooler off so you have a flat piece with the coolant flange and the intake flange. You can then cut the coolant pipe off the back of the cooler and weld part of it to the bottom of that piece. Once you have the pipe welded on, put the oring back on the coolant part and bolt it to the bottom of the manifold. Then all you need is a u-shaped hose to get back to the oil cooler. This hose can be found at Advance or Autozone. The part number is 300067. It will work perfectly. We were doing this a couple of years ago with success before we could easily get our hands on delete kits for higher hp trucks that wanted the cooler gone. It takes a little time and costs nothing but $10 for the hose and clamps. Not very professional, but it worked when we didn't have many other options.
 
#19 ·
I have a freeze plug tig welded into my upipe. And chopped the cooler as described ^ there and tig welded it also. No leaks no problems
 
#20 ·
All my buddies have their trucks done the same way. They have had em for years like that way. as stated this as before there were any kits. And they all work for ford.
 
#25 ·
they make a block off plate kit for 6.4... i actually have a set i got on trade from a guy that owed me some $$ but i havent got around to installing them... pm me if your interested in em
 
#23 ·
I've been quite a few for many local used car dealers. They take a 6.0 in on trade and has the symptoms of a blown head gasket. I charge then $500 to weld up the cooler and put it back together. $900 if I have to get them a SCT to keep the check engine light off.
 
#24 ·
ya ive been told it wont work too... BS!!! i ran my truck for probably 1.5 years with the freeze plug welded into the up pipe with the cooler still in place and stage 2 injectors... i would regularly hit 1800+ degrees egt and when i finally got around to deleting the egr cooler by cutting a few inches off the end, welding both ends shut and redoing the hose the freeze plug was still in place zero issues no melting nothing..... only time i heard of a problem was somebody only tack welded the freeze plug instead of welding all the way around it...
 
#26 ·
6.4's are easy to do, just put the block off plates in. 30 min job.
 
#27 ·
Could you make a piece to go between the intake and the cooler to stop the flow into the intake. I've got a solid up pipe that I'm going to be installing and would like to block the intake side just in case the cooler ever fails. Cooler was replaced under warranty about 25K miles ago and don't have any signs of it leaking. Just was wondering if a thin piece of stainless or galvanized would work in between the cooler and intake.

Thanks Rick
 
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