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I think I did this wrong

2K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  06 KR 
#1 ·
For those of you running the Airdog II, How did you hook it up. I followed the instructions to the T. I have it hooked to the batt, and the ignition hot lead is going to the underhood fuse box piggybacking off the ABS fuse, which is an ignition hot. Here is the problem. its always running with ignition on, accesories on, so on and so forth. I cant even listen to music now with the truck off because it just runs and suns. I know my old muscle car was like that with the holly pump. But the stock lift pump ran then shut off until the motor was running. I have tried every fuse that is ignition hot. This is especialy bad when loading a tune from SCT when it has been put to stock for service. It takes 7-10 min to load and the Airdog just sits and runs. Freaking annoying. What are you guys doing to avoid this. Or is this just how it is?
 
#3 ·
Right now mine is doing the same thing out of the fuse box. I'm gonna hard wire it to the factory plug and hope that changes it
 
#4 ·
turn the key on and test light the plug on the factory pump. find which wire i think it was pink with a black tracer on my buddies 05..cut the fuse end off the air dog line and solder it to the pink wire and heat shrink it..then it will come on and off like the factory pump..
 
#7 ·
:whs:
Or better yet, splice in a connector for the AD off the factory harness, leaving the factory plug in place and functional. This way if the AD ever goes belly up, you can run your stock HCFM as a backup without too much hassle.
 
#6 ·
Just ditch the switched fuse thingy and wire it up to a switch. Leave the switch on when you are running the truck like normal and then shut it off when you want to listen to the radio. Also, if you locate the switch only where you know where it is then it can act as your anti-theft device.

The only thing I was able to use from the AirDog II wire harness was the plug at the pump. I cut that off and wired it up to my own relay, inertia switch, and switch inside the cab. Now I have full control of the pump, and if I hit something or roll over it will shut off. Besides, the AirDog harness was too short for me to use on my crew cab but I do like the quality of wire, relay and fuse holder so I will throw that in a box and use it for something later.
 
#8 ·
Re-read instructions:

"OR Route the ADII 'relay activation lead', the red (+) wire with the mini fuse tap attached to the OE pump. Remove mini fuse tap and splice they relay lead to the OE fuel pump lead"

Will fix your problem.

Also - when working on the truck if you need to kill the pump, all you have to do is pull the 20 amp fuse under dash for the stock pump - has come in handy a few times for me already.
 
#9 ·
a $4 switch would salve all your problems & always work!!! no harness cutting or splicing.
 
#10 ·
I spliced into factory wire harness. Pink with black tracer. This solved all my starting problems. First off they way I and a lot of others have it hooked up causes a hesitated or long start situation which I have been tracking down for a month or so. Well this was it. If you just have the acc. Lead into a ignition hot when you crank the engine it kills all power to your fuel pump. You can actually hear this happen. So k ow its hooked up to factory hot lead from stock lift pump. So after about ten seconds the pump shuts off like it should, it does not run when key switched to acc. Also and this is most important, it runs pump while cranking so youhave pressure while cranking. Hope this helps if anyone had the same issue. Thanks for all the ideas and help.
 
#11 ·
Also and this is most important, it runs pump while cranking so youhave pressure while cranking. Hope this helps if anyone had the same issue. Thanks for all the ideas and help.
And perhaps even more importantly than that, the pump will shut off in an accident since its wired through the inertia switch like it should be.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out!!
 
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