I just lifted the Ex with a used kit and want to know is it considered a 4 or 6 inch. The rear was lifted with a 4 inch block so its up 4 inches however the front with the new used springs is up 6 inches. The rear still sits up by 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Also on the rear did any body have trouble with vibrations from about 45 plus when accerating? I beleive my pionon angle is off and thinking of shimming it and getting some ladder bars.
The lift height is what the front is lifted. You can not go off the rear as many kits level the rear4 rather than keep the same rake. The other issue is if this lift is specific for the X. Its really only in the height its listed for. A 4" lift for a super duty truck will be listed as a 5 or 6" lift for an Excursion. Same front springs. The X starts 1-2 inchs lower than a standard V coded Super duty. So if you add a spring that lifts a super duty whihc has springs with a higher arch already a certian amount its going to be that much more for the X.
The issue is many lifts that use springs in the rear are the same springs for the 1000 lb lighter rear end of a PU. While it may end up leveling the X to start with the added weight as the springs settle in will end up squatting just as a PU would if you put a heavy load in the bed.
Maybe Cary can comment on this as he deals with lots of ICON lifts. The 5" rear springs listed are the same for both SD and EX. That means they are going to squat sooner on the X. They sure may ride nice as they are progressive but you would need air bags I woudl think if you tend to carry a heavy load or tow heavy as its going to squat much sooner than a PU would with the same pack.
This is also why Cary has had custom valved shocks made by Blisten for the X as the weight ratio and lay out of the X is different enough from the PU to end up needing different cycling ratios to perform and feel the best.
IMO..depending on the lift needed I would do a modded B code over Icon's rear springs..just not the best for a Excursion. If I can help PM me. OP..your block flat or tapered?
if you were looking at ride quailty only would the ICON in the rear be better and then add firestone bags for heavy tongue or loads to correct squatting? Trying to recall what we had talked about a few months ago on that.
On the Blistines whats your opinion on the 5150s perf for the X with your valving setup?
5" Icon's way to soft IMO for a Ex.. Still would use Modded B codes. My Ex rides way better than a stocker..its my wifes and she would kill me if it rode bad..she was pissed when I first told her I was modding it..2 weeks after we bought it in '04...2 years later finally get it set up correctly after trying many different parts and spending $$$. That didn't sit well as you can imagine but the money spent aside she loves it now.
#5150 look great but no reason for Rez shocks on the street except the cool factor..that said I run dual #7100RR's on mine..Dual shocks on the front is more important on the front of a Ex.
I always wondered about the Icon Dever springs on the rear as they are the same ones used on the SD kit. We all know what happened when you put stock B codes on a X rear without doing the mod.
So if a person went with a V code up front combined with the ICON 4.5 Hanger kit the blocks in that kit plus the modded B codes would keep you at the stock rake?
V code B code
Icon 4.5 Hanger Kit
Dual 5100 Frnt
Single 5100 rear
Do you have a different valving for the fronts shocks when you go to duals?
I would think 2x of the same valving of a single setup would make for a harsh cycling setup.
If you hypothetically had the fender clearance could you allow the leaf springs to fully cycle with the ICON hanger kit by not adding the taller bump stops? It woudl seem you could literally almost 2x your travel with the hanger kit and V or X codes.
Im still having a vibration with the ex.(havent done anything yet) but I need to soon cause we will be pulling a 4 place snowmobile trailer 10 hours in about a month. I measured my pinon angle and it came to about 6* The pinon is pointing more straight than up so I need to twist the axle up more. When I put the lift blocks in I put the stock block on top of the lift block for the bumpstop, it shouldnt matter should it? I did find a guy that will custom make me blocks for about 100 bucks. Any input?
I got my new blocks in. Fixed my high speed vibration 90% but now I can feel it at slower speeds when I accerate faster. My pinon angle is now at -1.5* Im going to check the angle at the x-case tonight when the wife gets home. Anyone now of a way to lower the back of the x-case down to bring the angle down? Or should I just pony up and spend the money for a shaft with a cv?
well you can get an index ring to clock your t case down but thats for extreme lifts normally, You could easily make two brackets to relocate the x member its two bolts on one side & a triangle 3 shape on the other drop that an inch if u need a straiter pinion angle.
I lowered mine 4 inches for a 24 inch lift so that might be a bit extreme. I did this with a one piece drive shaft also, I replaced the POS 2 piece & carrier bearing that always failed on me for some reason.
Does anyone know what years came with a cv shaft OEM? I can have one added to mine but it would be 300-350 to be done. If I can just buy one used it would save me a pretty penny.
Mines a 01 built in 2000 that is a one piece shaft. Makes things easier
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Power Stroke Nation
2.5M posts
107.4K members
Since 2007
A forum community dedicated to Ford Power Stroke owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about diesel performance, modifications, EGR deletes, troubleshooting, lift kits, tires, wheels, maintenance, and more!