Try unplugging the red line to the waste gate and stick it on one of the boot clamps, sometimes the soliniod that opens them goes bad and prematurely opens them. give that a shot
i have the 38r on mine and had to adjust the waste gate after i installed it. it sucks major axx, but is do-able. like ttford07 said, unplug the red line from the waste gate and run it to see what kind of boost you are making. if stock, you probably wont make much over 18-20 psi. if you have a good chip, you can make closer to 25-30. i always throw a ses light when i pass 22 psi but it goes out in a matter of mins. there are a couple of ways to adjust the waste gate while installed. i read somewhere that you can remove the hardware off of the waste gate canister itself, pull back on it and turn it. i hear that sucks also. here is the way i did it. took probably 30 mins. gather these tools: inspection mirror, 90 deg scribe or pick, a good retrieval magnet, and a small pair of needle nose visegrips. use the mirror to see how the retaining clip is positioned on the waste gate arm. use the scribe to spin it around to where it will pull off toward you. stick the magnet back next to the scribe and clip so when you pull the clip off, the magnet will grab it. pull it off. lift the arm off the pin and screw it in. can't really give you a definite count on turns. but i turned mine about 6-10 complete turns in (you are shorting the rod). i put a mark on the rod with a marker to know where i started. to put rod back on, i used my air compressor and cut it down to about 30 psi and pluged a rubber tiped air nozzle into the waste gate actuator to move the rod so i could reconnect it. if no air you are just going to have to try and pull it over and slip it back on. that way really sucks. once the rod is back in place, use the needle nose visegrips to hold the clip. you want to grab the clip so the visegrips are basically parallel with the clip. not pinching its thickness, but the little notch on the back. don't squeeze it so it closes the clip, just enough to hold it. stick the magnet back there again and slip the clip back on. use the mirror again to make sure it is all the way on. are you confused now?
You didnt ask me, but ive got beans tunes and injectors.
If you have pmrs id go with stage 2's or maybe hybrids and if you got forged rods get some hybrids from them. I like my tunes and injectors, they have several tunes that will roal coal for you or not if you want a nice around town tune.
i am very happy with my tunes and injectors. i went with the stage ones, but sometimes wish i would have went with stage II's. even with the 1's, plenty of power, and in tow mode on the TS chip, it keeps the EGT's down when towing my tractor and plenty of torque for getting moving from a stop. the only thing about the chip is i got talked into the lope idle, which is useless, it sounds as if the truck is running out of fuel to me, instead of a big block with a cam. all in all, i have been very satisfied with beans and their products. they did mess up the programming on my chip, twice. first they programmed it for an OBS ford, then they forgot to program it with my HPOP in mind. they made everything all good though with no problems. with the injectors, i got about 5 mpg more than with the stock split shots.
stock fuel system. that is on my wish list, along with a new tranny. read up on john woods and the work he does on the 4R100 and like what i read. i ran the stock fuel system because for years i ran on waste vegetable oil. after i changed my injectors, i decided to stop and do strictly diesel. hard to spend money like that on injectors and risk it with the wvo.
Im running beans and love them, and how fast they respond to emails is awsome
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