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Should the stub axle move this much?

43K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  tree trimmer 
#1 ·
I have been fighting a vibration in the front end for a while and I may have found the cause.

The drivers side stub axle moves vertically about a 1/4" up and down (see pic). I assume that it isn't supposed to do that.

Does that mean that the entire hub needs to be replaced (I don't have the time to tear it completely apart right now) or just the needle bearing needs to be replaced?
 

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#2 ·
Anyone?
 
#3 ·
There is a seal in the back side of the spindle where the axle comes through. It also holds tension on the stub shaft and if it is bad the stub shaft will move excessively. I am on vacation right now or I could show you a picture and give you a part number. I chased a vibration along with a strange noise in my truck for a while before I found this, might be your problem too.
 
#4 ·
There is a seal in the back side of the spindle where the axle comes through. It also holds tension on the stub shaft and if it is bad the stub shaft will move excessively. I am on vacation right now or I could show you a picture and give you a part number. I chased a vibration along with a strange noise in my truck for a while before I found this, might be your problem too.
This is the exact problem that I'm having. I will check that out.
 
#5 ·
The inner bearings bad inside the wheel bearing itself. Also if its been doing it awhile like mine has the stub shaft AND the wheel bearing has to be replaced :(

The inner bearing of the wheel bearing can be replaced by itself but if its ate up bad it will eat the race up too. So again its better to just replace the wheel bearing and the stub shaft. Trying to save up enough to replace mine soon.
 
#6 ·
Also you might check the inner thrust washer...... it's plastic. It helps to limit the movement of the axle.
 
#8 ·
Shouldnt really move any if everythings right. Once things start wearing it gets more and more play. Course Ive never pried on one just checked it by hand.
 
#9 ·
I'm not prying on it, it will move easily up and down with just my hand.
 
#10 ·
The the thrust washers gone or the needle bearing assembly inside the hub is shot. Only way to know just how bad it is would be to take it apart which isnt that hard.
 
#11 ·


I dont have a video of moving the stub shaft itself but this is from when my front ujoint died taking the needle bearing with it.
 
#12 ·
How did that u-joint get that bad? Wow.

I will be tearing into my front end next week and I will post what was wrong.

Maybe it will assist someone else with the same problem.
 
#14 ·
Some idiot or the previous owner took the auto locking hub apart and put it back together wrong. It couldnt disengage. So for up to 290,000 miles it was locked in :D

No clue exactly how long of those miles it was forced locked in like that but by the looks of it, it was that way for a good bit of it..
 
#13 ·
Here is the seal I was talking about.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco.php/i-721100_froogle.html

When you replace it you actually have to pry the axle towards the tire side to get the thrush washers and snap ring back on. It holds pressure on the axle against the thrush washers. There should be very little movement of the stub axle with everything in good shape. Not saying that is your problem but I chased it once, and it took me a little while to figure out. Guys with auto hubs will notice the hubs not locking in right or not engaging at all. I have manual hubs so that didn`t help me.
 
#15 ·
With the hub out as in the picture the stub shaft will appear to have excessive play horizontal and vertical. The hub supports the outboard end and the spindle bearing supports the inboard end of the stub. The only way to check these for movement is ASSEMBLED. Mine had a grinding sound after hitting a bump- it was the stub moving and putting the hub in a bind and partially engaging the hub. I have never seen these cause a vibration when loose, only the aformentioned grinding or a clunk on bumps. After replacing the stub, (bearing journal worn) spindle bearing, (can be bought seperate from wheel bearing), and hub with the hub installed mine has under 1/8" play in any direction. The plastic washer talked about controls axial and can be seen when the wheel bearing is removed-replace if cracked. There are also three washers(steel/plastic/steel) held in by a snapring that you will see after the hub is removed, I always apply a little grease to the plastic washers on assembly. Don't forget to pack the spindle bearing if you replace it, and it's not a bad idea to pack it every brake job. This is an often overlooked mantainence item that can be very costly as the stub shaft/inner axle used to be sold as an assembly as well as the spindle bearing/wheel bearing. OTC has a tool for installing the seal to the stub and driving the seal to the proper depth in the knuckle, the part# is OTC6695. Also this is the time to do ball joints if needed, good luck.
 
#16 ·
Heres some of the pics I took of the repair I did on mine.

This is what was left of the inner wheel bearing that holds the stub shaft.


Heres what a good one looks like.


Heres some shots of the destroyed axle stub shaft. Dont have any good pics since its still toast :D




 
#17 ·
What brand/type of bearing grease should I use?
 
#18 ·
Any name brand hi-temp wheel bearing grease willl work just fine.
 
#19 ·
Thanks guys for all of the info and help.
 
#20 ·
I got everything torn apart and put back together and i was wondering how easily is the axle supposed to turn with new axle seals?

Mine turns (it doesn't feel bound up), but not nearly as easy as it used to before the new seals were installed.
 
#21 ·
It should drag some with new seals. Alot actually compared to worn out seals :D
 
#22 ·
Thanks Crowz, that is what I wanted to hear.
 
#23 ·
on a superduty is there a ring you have to take off inside the diff cover before removing the front right axle?
 
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