I have been fighting a vibration in the front end for a while and I may have found the cause.
The drivers side stub axle moves vertically about a 1/4" up and down (see pic). I assume that it isn't supposed to do that.
Does that mean that the entire hub needs to be replaced (I don't have the time to tear it completely apart right now) or just the needle bearing needs to be replaced?
There is a seal in the back side of the spindle where the axle comes through. It also holds tension on the stub shaft and if it is bad the stub shaft will move excessively. I am on vacation right now or I could show you a picture and give you a part number. I chased a vibration along with a strange noise in my truck for a while before I found this, might be your problem too.
There is a seal in the back side of the spindle where the axle comes through. It also holds tension on the stub shaft and if it is bad the stub shaft will move excessively. I am on vacation right now or I could show you a picture and give you a part number. I chased a vibration along with a strange noise in my truck for a while before I found this, might be your problem too.
The inner bearings bad inside the wheel bearing itself. Also if its been doing it awhile like mine has the stub shaft AND the wheel bearing has to be replaced
The inner bearing of the wheel bearing can be replaced by itself but if its ate up bad it will eat the race up too. So again its better to just replace the wheel bearing and the stub shaft. Trying to save up enough to replace mine soon.
Shouldnt really move any if everythings right. Once things start wearing it gets more and more play. Course Ive never pried on one just checked it by hand.
The the thrust washers gone or the needle bearing assembly inside the hub is shot. Only way to know just how bad it is would be to take it apart which isnt that hard.
Some idiot or the previous owner took the auto locking hub apart and put it back together wrong. It couldnt disengage. So for up to 290,000 miles it was locked in
No clue exactly how long of those miles it was forced locked in like that but by the looks of it, it was that way for a good bit of it..
When you replace it you actually have to pry the axle towards the tire side to get the thrush washers and snap ring back on. It holds pressure on the axle against the thrush washers. There should be very little movement of the stub axle with everything in good shape. Not saying that is your problem but I chased it once, and it took me a little while to figure out. Guys with auto hubs will notice the hubs not locking in right or not engaging at all. I have manual hubs so that didn`t help me.
With the hub out as in the picture the stub shaft will appear to have excessive play horizontal and vertical. The hub supports the outboard end and the spindle bearing supports the inboard end of the stub. The only way to check these for movement is ASSEMBLED. Mine had a grinding sound after hitting a bump- it was the stub moving and putting the hub in a bind and partially engaging the hub. I have never seen these cause a vibration when loose, only the aformentioned grinding or a clunk on bumps. After replacing the stub, (bearing journal worn) spindle bearing, (can be bought seperate from wheel bearing), and hub with the hub installed mine has under 1/8" play in any direction. The plastic washer talked about controls axial and can be seen when the wheel bearing is removed-replace if cracked. There are also three washers(steel/plastic/steel) held in by a snapring that you will see after the hub is removed, I always apply a little grease to the plastic washers on assembly. Don't forget to pack the spindle bearing if you replace it, and it's not a bad idea to pack it every brake job. This is an often overlooked mantainence item that can be very costly as the stub shaft/inner axle used to be sold as an assembly as well as the spindle bearing/wheel bearing. OTC has a tool for installing the seal to the stub and driving the seal to the proper depth in the knuckle, the part# is OTC6695. Also this is the time to do ball joints if needed, good luck.
i dont know bout independent front sus, but my straight axel you just pull out, no retainers
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