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Wheel bearing how to.

5K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  Greg373 
#1 ·
Any info on a how to front wheel bearing write up and also how to tell if your wheel bearings are spent.
 
#2 ·
Jack the truck up and grab the top and the bottom of the tires and see if it rocks back and forth. The main wheel bearing is a sealed bearing inside the hub, so you have to get a new hub. Around $200-300 at parts stores about $500 at ford. There is also the spindle bearing that can be replaced if that is your problem. It sits at the back of the hub where it goes against the dust shield. You will be able to tell if that is bad if you pull it apart.

I'm guessing it's 4x4?

To tear the front end apart you need to pinch the spring C clip deal holding the lock out part of the hub, pull it off, then pull the black plastic lock out portion out. Then on the axle shaft there is a C clip that you have to spread apart and slide off the shaft and then remove the 3 washers. You will also need to remove the caliper by taking out the two bolts that hold it on. Then there are 4 bolts on the back of the hub where the knuckle is. Take those out and the hub will come off,and you will be able to see you spindle bearing. When you go to putting it back together make sure you have the dust shield on the right direction, because that will tick you off when you get everything together and go to put the caliper back on and it won't go. Also make sure the 3 washers go back in the correct order. Not too bad of a job, spraying the bolts on the back of the hub where the knuckle is a head of time may be useful. A good set of C clip pliers, needle nose pliers, the sockets, a breaker bar and or impact wrench should be all you need.
 
#17 ·
Jack the truck up and grab the top and the bottom of the tires and see if it rocks back and forth. The main wheel bearing is a sealed bearing inside the hub, so you have to get a new hub. Around $200-300 at parts stores about $500 at ford. There is also the spindle bearing that can be replaced if that is your problem. It sits at the back of the hub where it goes against the dust shield. You will be able to tell if that is bad if you pull it apart.

I'm guessing it's 4x4?

To tear the front end apart you need to pinch the spring C clip deal holding the lock out part of the hub, pull it off, then pull the black plastic lock out portion out. Then on the axle shaft there is a C clip that you have to spread apart and slide off the shaft and then remove the 3 washers. You will also need to remove the caliper by taking out the two bolts that hold it on. Then there are 4 bolts on the back of the hub where the knuckle is. Take those out and the hub will come off,and you will be able to see you spindle bearing. When you go to putting it back together make sure you have the dust shield on the right direction, because that will tick you off when you get everything together and go to put the caliper back on and it won't go. Also make sure the 3 washers go back in the correct order. Not too bad of a job, spraying the bolts on the back of the hub where the knuckle is a head of time may be useful. A good set of C clip pliers, needle nose pliers, the sockets, a breaker bar and or impact wrench should be all you need.
:doh::doh::doh: I did the same damn thing!!!!! Talk about pissed hahaha. But all in all it isnt that hard of a job to do. i think your explanation was good.
 
#5 ·
Yeah if it is the main bearing that is bad and you have to get a new hub, it should come with everything you need. It will have wheel studs, and some come with the 4 studs on the back and some don't. You can re-use your old studs if you can get them off. Mine wouldn't come off, so I had to get new. Then only place I could find them was Ford and the 4 of them was about $12
 
#7 ·
ok cool I've been geting a slight rumble going down the road, so slight you wouldent notice it if you dident own and drive the truck everyday but I know these are a problem on these trucks and I have 120k on the stock ones running the beach and toting a 9ft plow all winter so its prob due.
 
#8 ·
Mine had that slight "rumble" also. got the new hub and it turns out its was the hub lock unit that goes on the outside of the hub. im stil lookin for an aftermarket one (422 from ford). you might also want to pop out the front drive shaft and go for a spin just to rule that out also.
 
#10 ·
What ever you do get one with a LIFETIME warrenty, its not if it goes out again its when, the aftermarket ones only seem to last a year or less on every truck i have been around, i have personally replaced mine twice on each side in the last year and a half.... just a word of warning lol.. have fun! :)
 
#11 ·
I wounder if the Napa versions have a lifetime warranty... Going to have to call around this week. I dont mind changing them for free, for a third the cost of the ford one...
 
#12 ·
I'm up against this problem too. Front wheel has about 1" of play at 6 and 12.

Now, I've got Warn Manual Locking Hubs, will this affect anything I need to order here, or should it just be the standard hub (since this is a different "hub") and go ahead and order that $300 part - 02/99 build date so it needs the more expensive ones.
 
#14 ·
Go to autozone and buy the new hub assembly for 115$ and that includes new studs. Replacement is about as easy as popping on new brake pads. Easy peazy.
 
#16 ·
Cheap and they seem to be fit just fine. Packaged well etc. One or two year warranty too.
 
#18 ·
Not intending to hi-jack the thread here, but I hate starting new threads:

Yesterday I noticed when I got to town my front wheel (sounds like driver's side, haven't jacked it up to feel yet), is making a squeaking/creaking/clicking noise while driving, increasing with speed and becoming louder when turning.

Are these the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing? Suggestions? On the way into town I was hitting rain puddles on the highway at higher speeds to wash the mud out of my fender-wells, incase that matters . . .
 
#19 ·
This can be ignored . . . because I feel like a moron.

It was a thick piece of Canola stubble wedged between my brake dust shield and caliper making this noise, I can't believe it was loud enough to hear over my engine and tires. Dunno how I missed seeing it, but I'll look over things better before I go asking questions next time!
 
#20 ·
lol its ok man at least it was simple. Ok guys so if I make left turns it quiets down so dose that mean its the left side bearing because more weights being put on the right side and taken off the left when I turn?
 
#22 ·
Got the hole thing apart tonight in record time and the ford guy failed to mention that there is NO O ring seal on the new hub, even tho I said "give me all the seals and everything I need to do this" so no my trucks down till at least monday... great
 
#24 ·
Timken is the brand you want to get for your unit bearing replacement. It is exactly the same unit bearing you get from Ford. One in the same. Do some searching over on Ford-Truck to save a ton of money of where to order from.

IMO the reason parts seem to wear out sooner many times is cheaper parts in some cases( always look for the same brand used by the factory unless something is proven better) even if the parts supposedly are the same as factory its from the wear of other parts that decrease a parts duty life and accelerates wear. Tires, Tie rod ends, steering gear box, ball joints,brakes etc.. Anyways that my opinion
 
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