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DIY traction bars. Would this combo work?

4K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  coryjones 
#1 ·
I'm looking at the FF stage 2 traction bars for my 08 CC/LB.
https://shop.farmboyfabrications.com/farmboy-fabrications-stage-2-traction-bars-4.html

The pictures posted look really simple so I'm sure I'm missing something.

Here's what I had in mind for a DIY version:

2 sets of RH and LH heims from Ruff Stuff:
3/4" Ruffstuff Heat & Cryo Treated Rod End Set, 1 LH & 1 RH [34set] - $50.00
Obviously FF uses a bigger joint but for something as simple as traction bars I wouldn't see why anything bigger than a 3/4 heim would be necessary. 3/4 heims get used in 4-link suspension applications which see way more stress than traction bars.

Poly Performance frame brackets:
Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK , Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Pit Bull Tires, Ramsey Winch, ARB, Walker Evans, Wilwood, Mastercraft, CNC Braking, Sway-A-Way (RaceRunner) Shocks, Co2 & Nitrogen Kits, Total Chaos, more....
With some 1/2" or bigger holes drilled in them they could be bolted instead of welded to the frame.


There are plenty of different options from tabs on the axle side, ranging from
Cheap: Axle Tube LINK Tabs


Not as cheap: Lower axle link brackets


And if I went with the 3/4 heims/inserts/adapters I would only need tubing/pipe with a 1" ID.

I don't see why pipe wouldn't work for this applications.
I can get 2-8' sections of 1" schd 80 for $101

Welding is free so that doesn't have to be factored into the equation, but even if it did there isn't more than an hour's worth of work. The last time I had someone weld for me they charged $120 for the hours worth of work that they did.


So, adding that up it looks like:

$112-heims
$101-pipe
$70-frame brackets
$14-$31 for axle brackets

That looks like $300-320 in parts.


That looks to be cheaper than what I could buy from any of the popular brands.

Does anyone see any issues with parts I have chosen?

Basically it would mount below the frame and run to a single point on the axle. There are DIY mounts that allow for mounting to 2 points on the axle, but the brackets cost a tad bit more.
 
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#2 ·
I think it would be fine. My setup is like that, except my tubing is bigger. I would personally go with something bigger than 1". Not that you would break it, but it would look better. IMO Im using 1.5" solid steel rod that are threaded at each end. I feel like I got a deal because I only paid $100 for the machining and the rods. Good luck.
 
#6 ·
David N do you think you could post up the part names/numbers of all the parts from Ballistic Fab that you have to make your bars. I called them one day and they kind of confused me as to what I actually needed to buy from them.
 
#7 ·
here is the parts list from Ballistic that me and my buddy used. I ended up getting my 1 1/4 heims, tube adapters, and jam nuts from Barnes 4WD and 2" OD w/ .250 wall thickness tubing locally. we're putting them together some time in the next couple weeks...

BRK-1008-1 Lower axle link brackets
Axle Tube Diameter: 3.0"
Degree Offset: 0 degree
Mounting Width / Hole size: 2.63 inch w/ 9/16 inch bolt
Price: $29.99
Qty: 1

BRK-1072-1 Heavy Duty Frame Link Mount
Inside mounting width and punch size: 2.63" width with 9/16" hole (for 2.63" joint or 1" rod end)
Price: $19.99
Qty: 2

JAM-720 1.25" -12 tpi Jam Nut
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread
Price: $4.29
Qty: 2

JAM-719 1.25" -12 tpi Jam Nut
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread
Price: $4.29
Qty: 2

TA-248 1.25" -12 tpi Tube Adapter
Tube Inner & Outer Diameters: Size 2: 1.5 in ID - 2.0 in OD - $1.00
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread
Price: $13.99
Qty: 2

TA-247 1.25" -12 tpi Tube Adapter
Tube Inner & Outer Diameters: Size 2: 1.5 in ID - 2.0 in OD - $1.00
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread
Price: $13.99
Qty: 2

BUS-664-18 Ballistic Forged Poly Bushing 2.63" - CURRENTLY ON BACKORDER
Bolt Hole (Bore): 9/16"
Thread size / pitch: 1.25" 12 tpi
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread
Price: $33.99
Qty: 2

BJ-675-15SOLID Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
Bearing thru hole: 9/16"
Stud diameter / Thread Pitch: 1.25"- 12 tpi
Thread direction: Right hand thread
Nylatron Race: Billet (solid) - $6.00
Price: $51.99
Qty: 2
 
#10 ·
These are my parts from Ballistic... I hope now looking back that I ordered everything right.
Products Ordered:

SWA-101-3 Ballistic Fabrication Classic Sticker
Color: Black
Size: 4 " x 18 " - $2.00
Price: $3.99
Qty: 1

BRK-1010-1 Lower axle link brackets
Axle Tube Diameter: 3.5"
Degree Offset: 0 degree
Mounting Width / Hole size: 2.63 inch w/ 9/16 inch bolt
Price: $29.99
Qty: 1

BRK-1072-1 Heavy Duty Frame Link Mount
Inside mounting width and punch size: 2.63" width with 9/16" hole (for 2.63" joint or 1" rod end)
Price: $19.99
Qty: 2

BJ-675-12SOLID Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
Bearing thru hole: 9/16"
Stud diameter / Thread Pitch: 7/8" - 14 tpi
Thread direction: Left hand thread
Nylatron Race: Billet (solid) - $6.00
Price: $51.99
Qty: 2

BJ-675-11SOLID Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
Bearing thru hole: 9/16"
Stud diameter / Thread Pitch: 7/8" - 14 tpi
Thread direction: Right hand thread
Nylatron Race: Billet (solid) - $6.00
Price: $51.99
Qty: 2
 
#13 ·
So you guys are running a hiem joint on one end and a bushed end at the other? Which end is which and how long of tubes are you using?
 
#15 ·
I haven't decided what direction i am going just getting ideas. The first thing that comes to mind with these are the 3 point hitch bars they are like $22 and could lengthen them with tubing.
 
#16 ·
Yeah sure. That is essentiallly all that these are. But if you go with just one joint, you will have to take it all apart to adjust the bars. My thought is to just put hiem joints at both ends, have one end left hand thread, and the other right. That way you dont have to take anything off to adjust them.
 
#17 ·
The things i am talking about are hiems on both ends only thing is not sure they are greasable? So how long are you making the bars ? Is there a angle the needs to be maintained? I would assume the longer the better to a point.
 
#18 ·
My actual bars are 70", plus a hiem joint at both ends, would be more than 72". I aimed for over 6', but I am almost a complete noob at all of this, but I do know, the longer the better, and most are 5-6'.
 
#19 ·
I don't think there is any magic number as far as length goes. I think the goal is simply to eliminate axle wrap but still allow the suspension to cycle with little limitation.

In the traction bar sticky at the top of the page you can see that depending on the design, the length varies drastically between one set to the next.

I've seen the phrase "the longer the better" thrown around. It looks like that is a good rule of thumb to stick to depending on the room that you have.
 
#20 ·
These are they three point hitch upper link i was talking about i went to a local Farm store and got them for $46 they are 1". I think they can be easily drilled and taped for grease certs. I am going to cut them in half and lengthen them with 1 3/4" tubing and call it a day. I am going to get some 1" nuts to tighten it with. I think i will have about a $100 in it all.
 
#22 ·
I ordered four 1 1/4" hiems frame brackets and tabs. I will get the tubing locally. What do you think is a good length 6' 8'?
 
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