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Bringing speaker Wire On drivers Side door 05 CC

5K views 64 replies 8 participants last post by  jdc753 
#1 ·
Im finally getting around to installing my system in my current 05superdudy...All Focal Speakers and Amps Subs, From my previous PSD

Today i was Doing the doors...readying them for 6.5 mids..MDF plates Deadning etc... then i ran into a serious headache Bringing 12 Gauge wire Into the driver side door, What a pos Its tighter then hell on that side E brake assembally etc.. Its been a while since i had to run speaker wire through the doors on these trucks, Any tips on getting thick wire in on the drivers side? The passinger side was cake

One other queston i have is....do you guys think its easyer to run 1/0 Gauge power wire along the frame and then into the cab...There are some grommet openings back there under the rear carpet i belive?....id rather not mess with hidding it under the carpet door sills ....

Thanks
 
#2 ·
My 0/1 comes through the firewall and fit under the driver side sill plates pretty good...it did get tight though.
As for the speaker wire....I ran a piece of coat hanger through from the door to the dash then taped the wire on and pulled it through...wasn't bad at all. I have 2 runs of 12 gauge through each door since my crossovers are on the door pods and they are bi-amped....so it'll definitely fit. LOL
 
#3 ·
yea drivers side is a PITA, I got 2 runs of 16awg *I believe* plus at one time had coax for CB antenna's through there, with the big ends still on them.

I did like rich, but used a piece of 10awg power wire, basically you just want something stiff enough to hold a shape, but flexible to move and be bent by hand.

If I remember right the opening for the wires to pass through is basically behind the e-brake, and there is a plastic shield also that hides the hole. After about 30 minutes of messing with it, I ended up basically gritting my teath and was able to cut/break a slit into that plastic shield with the side of my hand and this gave me a bit more room to work and finally get the wiring through.


As for the 1/0 along the frame that is exactly how I have mine. I have 2 runs, one power and one ground, ground isn't necessary but I liked the overkill.

I am almost embarrased to post this (I cleaned it up later on) but here is the power wire run along the frame.


I used I think 1" split loom from home depot and some 3M Super 33 electrical tape, cleaning it up later to look like this, 100% covered in 3M tape and make sure to pull and stretch out the loom to get the most distance out of it.


I almost think Ford made these grommets for some 1/0 cable to go through em, should be 3 of them along the back


Here you can see where they pop into the cab, its RIGHT at the base of the seat just behind the brackets


My wires have been down there for over 2 years through some good new england winters and all, still looking good. I'm sure Rich has an ass load of wires in his truck so I don't know how he fit those big wires down the sills, I got 6-channels of RCA, 4-runs of 12awg speaker and 2 runs of 16awg speaker stuff into my drivers side, and my computer wiring runs down the passenger (which has a lot more room for wires)

Getting around the fuel pump with the wiring is tricky along the frame, I found out later on that my wires get in the way pretty good of changing my fuel filters, usually have to cut a zip tie or two to get them out of the way and then tie them back up after changing the filter :doh:

Oh and post up some pics when you get it all done, I love seeing stereo installs, specially some nicely built up doors.
 
#8 ·
One other area which is a pain...im somewhat finding is the space between the door pannel grille opening and the door itself...especially when using 1/4 inch mdf speaker pannels to mount 6.5.....I have to leave plastic ring on my mids...in order to hold the door pannel off the surround of the speaker.....

I remember on my old truck i didint have the rings on the outer edge of the mid...and at Full volume
 
#9 ·
05 CC System install

One other area which is a pain...im somewhat finding is the space between the door pannel grille opening and the door itself...especially when using 1/4 inch mdf speaker pannels to mount 6.5.....I have to leave plastic ring on my mids...in order to hold the door pannel off the surround of the speaker.....

I remember on my old truck i didint have the grille rings Mounted on the outside edge of the mid...But instead the mid ontop, like the proper way if you were actually using the grille....but it still never kept the door pannel far enough away when listening at full levels once the Mids were broke in and really moving

those of you who have tryed different high end 6.5 mid setups in the doors will know what im talking about:mad:
 
#10 ·
Yea I am about to work on that soon for mine. I am embarrased to say my high end mids are simply screwed kinto the door metal since I couldn't get it to fit properly with the mdf.

Friend of mine who competes in sq comps had the idea of working the door panel out with a heat gun and a roller to try and gain some more space. I am hoping to work on that this weekend since I finally got around to starting to work on my doors
 
#12 ·
Im running the 165K2P ...I have thought of getting the KRX3.... But theres alot of life left in this set...and i dont find the TN52 tweet to harsh like manny do...

yeah you could use a really Thin Like 1/8th mdf....But i couldent find any...everywere had ####ty hard board or particle....it just doesent seem stiff enough to me to use......So i used 1/4 and sanded them down...
 
#13 ·
Yeah jdc....ive thought about heating up the door pannel area too and pushing it out a bit....but i have found as long as you go around an 1/8th on your plates...and then use a 1/2 ring on the front side of your mid....it keeps the door pannel off nicely....and the door pannel still fits on properly..
 
#14 ·
Well 3 days working on it and im getting pretty far....Got my doors done..Except i cant find some proper looking and fitting Phillips head Black screws for my mids...im kinda OCD lol.. Got all my wiring done from the front to the amp rack done and my racks just about done....

Heres some pics....

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#18 ·
Thanks man..... I mounted the tweets in the Pillars below the grab handles....as low as i could go with them being level with the dash

As in not below the instrament cluster hump in the dash on the drivers side... so that the passingers is not obstructed.... I really wanted to flush them in this same area, would have to cut a bit of steel behind that area to get get it to work....... I cant find the flush mount cups for my TN52's though ..... i think i lost them

Going to get started on Ripping the package tray out and trimming the vents, Wall carpet behind the seats for my 4 8'' V2 Pollyglass subs.. I ran this 8'' setup in my last truck add it sounded great, Nice Loud Tight bass

This time around.... Im running 2 Focal FP 1.800 Mono blocks... one per 2 subs... should be intresting.. however One ran all 4 8'' In my last setup very well...

Well enough talking time to get back to the garage:blah:
 
#19 ·
Perfect spot for the tweets in these trucks. Only reason mine aren't there is due to them sucking on off axis response compared to on axis.flush mount sure would be cool but like you said a chunk of the pinch weld there would have to come out.

Looking forward to seeing some more pics of how you put it all together sounds like it is going to be sweet. Is that ensolite on the doors, or a different product?

Not shown in my pic above of my amp rack but I recarpeted the bar under the window so its all nice and clean. I trimmed the bottom of my vents leaved them only 3/4" off the backwall instead of the 1-1/2" they were before. Its wicked cramped behind the seat but 4 8's should do the trick quite nicely, specially with that good power.
 
#21 ·
well got my rack done today.....carpet and all the amps wired up..everthing bolted down...

Jdc Thats Cascade Vblock on the outer doorskins...and B quiet ...on the insides....

Got to R&Ding my subbox fittament....and yes definately going to have to trim the vents.. Werid this box fit without triming anything in my old 2000....and i even had 05 Lariat 60/40 rear bench installed.

Whats the easyest wat to trim some fat off em?... Seems its impossable to get them out without removing the truck box..lol..guess have to break out the old sawzall and do them inside

heres some pics of the day
 
#23 ·
Those are some sexy looking subs and the amp rack looks great.

For trimming the vents I used a dremel with a straight cut bit. If you pull the seat you could use a cut off wheel but its a tight spot and tricky to make sure you don't cut the tabs holding the vents in.

Here is mine trimmed, took out about 1/2" off the bottom, and used some strips of 3/4 to space my amp rack off the back well.

 
#24 ·
I removed mine completly, covered them with aluminum sheets that I used silicone caulk to glue to the cab wall then covered that in 3 layers of Dynamat. I've never missed them for a second.
 
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