Got it to tdp today. Got the motor torn out, and down! Farthest rod bearing from oil pump starved of oil, spun bearing! Got the crank, also that pistom smacked the valaves, just a little. On my phone, but will post pics tomorrow. Praying rod and crank are repairable. Amazing what happens when you dont get oil to the bearings due to a 10 dollar filter and a negligent companies ignorance. You guys be damned careful of the latest great thing.
I bought all my bearings, cam, rod, and crank bearings from the International dealership. Way cheaper then Ford.
Ford wanted close to $13.00 per cam bearing...IH wanted $4.00.
Just got a call to say it was determined to be from insuficient lubrication to the bearings. Not that we didn't already think that. But it was verified by the machine shop and the people tearing down the engine.
I asked about the qualifications of those professionals doing the work. None of them have an AA degree.
Everything is at the machine shop, the guy there thought he could make it all work. I will find out tomorrow sometime. Ivan, yeah, I need to know the part numbers from IH for their gasket kit, if they have head gaskets, and if they have an oil cooler kit. Thanks
Guys, no matter what side of the fence you sit, I Implore anyone who is running anything other than the stock filter and oil system, take a look at the filters closely. If you have anything other than a full flow 20 micron filter, you are probably doing damage to your engine. Don't be me, it sucks big time tearing it down all over again, and mine is just a toy. The kit I have NORMALLY comes in a 10 and then a 3 micron filter. Mine only had the 10 on it, imagine how much of it is clogging if you have a 3!
Rod and main bearing part numbers are for "Standard" size. If you give them these numbers, at least they will be able to find the oversized part numbers right underneath them.
Hey, Tim. I did a little research. I talked with an engineer at a little company called Thermal Dynamics. I gave him the specs from our oil pump and he was a little stunned. I asked about remote mounting the filters and the possibility of a remote oil cooler. He told me it better be with 3/4 lines.
Are those 12AN on that kit? I didn't think so.
Also, With removing the oil cooler and running an oil-to-air cooler, he was recomending going with round tube and fin. The oval stuff isn't sufficient. And it better have 3/4 fittings on it as well. Or else the oil will probably cool down. But the pressure drop wouldn't be a good thing for the engine...
here is the kit i was sent for my ranger, made my own lines just got both adaptors.......have made 12 very successful passes, getting faster each time. removed oil pan and filter this past weekend and both were in good shape. i have a low pressure oil gauge and it never drops below 15 psi at idle. both lines are 12an. i was asked why so big. well i also did research and this was what i came up with.
here is the kit i was sent for my ranger, made my own lines just got both adaptors.......have made 12 very successful passes, getting faster each time. removed oil pan and filter this past weekend and both were in good shape. i have a low pressure oil gauge and it never drops below 15 psi at idle. both lines are 12an. i was asked why so big. well i also did research and this was what i came up with.
It was nice working in a real shop, with real tools, and a lift for a change.
I also found out that John Robinson is a very nice guy, but he is one tough, mean cowboy. He and I were riding in his truck, and he leaned over and broke wind. He is so tough, he farts bb's. Check out the damage to his seat.
If he is gonna ride with you, be damned careful where you take him for lunch, and what direction he points that thing, and for gods sake do not walk behind him.
Sucks man hopefully the machine shop can make it work.
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