Hayden - Home , doug and i were discussing this the other day, idk what the specs are on a 7.3 but the 6.0 flows way to much oil to have one oil cooler be able to handle all of it let alone cool it, doug figured it up to flow enough oil to need 2 oil coolers with 3/4" tube, which would just be ridiculous, hope urs is a diff case
OK got it. The thing about the 6.0 flowing too much oil for the 7.3 had we confused about was being discussed.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that most of the off the shelf oil coolers ran -10 an fitting and that for out diesel engine was too not large enough and caused restriction for actually cooling. -12 an were needed for proper flow. Not sure of the validity of this, whether it might have been to sell a particular product, o what. I only recall the info. Think it was speaking about duramaxs a couple of years ago. I have not looked at aux oil coolers in long time so have no idea whats available. I wanted to throw out what I have recalled on it.
that's not always tru, it may work slightly better than his cracked one does currently but he needs to make sure it will flow more gpm than what his oil pump does or it will be defeating its purpose. cuz if it just shoves the oil all thru there then it doesnt have time to cool it, it needs to be able to move slow enough to cool the oil to be worth paying the money for
i think not running a coolant filter on it and having the filled block might have caused a problem,.....aaand what about using a stock 7.3 trans cooler mounted down on the frame(obviously flushed thuroughly) as an aux oil cooler? has that been done?
,.....aaand what about using a stock 7.3 trans cooler mounted down on the frame(obviously flushed thuroughly) as an aux oil cooler? has that been done?
I would think put back on the OEM cooler after doing a rebuild on it. Then using the oil ports on the oil cooler and or bock add another Aux oil cooler and locate in the grill. That way you do not need to worry about flow capacity at all as it is a extra. But get the biggest one you can fit and afford especially if its thermostat controlled. You can even add a thermostat bypass so it only flow s when oil hits certain temp same 200. Would add oil capacity which also never bad thing. That should work well and be the least fuss shouldn't it?
Problem with taping into the main oil galley is you are consuming LPO from an already over taxed pump, there must be a pressure differential for the cooler to work, so you would need to dump that oil back to the pan or use it to feed something (turbo, HPOP).
A more ideal setup would be to use the return oil from the HPOP (already beaten up and hot), and cool that, this way you can maintain proper LPO pressure's without taking anything away from the engine.
Now if you could devise a "full flow" cooler setup that would be the shiz. Probably would not be too difficult to fab but the size of the cooler and lines would have to be huge (and carefully selected), and more than likely need a thermostatic type of bypass to maintain temperature.
Either way I feel this will just be a band-aid, and there is an underlying issue that must be addressed first.
I have never had any issues with blocks filled and oil temps, unless the cooler is plugged. It may have some flow, but not enough. I would put a NEW cooler on and a COOLANT FILTER and see what happens.
Seems no one wants to listen here. I'd use magic, its much less trouble.
I agree, new stock cooler, double check to make sure nothing is restricting flow through the cooler, and see where its at. Too many running the same setup with no trouble.
The block is not filled. I was having hi temp issues from the dual pump setup that I was running. By running the IPR through the cooler before returning it to the pan, I dropped a bunch heat.
You have those wastegates adjusted yet?
?????????
what you mean?
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