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Head Stud Install With Engine in Pics

18K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  Marty 
#1 · (Edited)
A lot of you guys may already know all this and I realize this is not ground breaking information but I hope this post may save someone some work and searching in the forums if they are wanting to install head studs with the engine in the truck. (DISCLAIMER: These are ARP Studs in a 2000 F250 4x4. I worked alone and I used a strong impact wrench to remove the head bolts. I pity the person who would do this without good air tools and a Topside Creeper and I don't know if H11's work the same or not.) There is a wealth of info on this site, but after reading almost every post on this subject, I realized there are not a lot of photos of the tricky parts of the install. (Searching seems to be becoming a lost art LOL) One comment I came across a lot in my searches was the need to remove the A/C box on the passenger side of the truck. I did not find that step necessary. Another unnecessary step I read about was to unbolt the tranny from the cross member. I simply unbolted the two 21mm engine mount bolts on the bottom of the frame (one side at a time) and used a floor jack and 2x4 placed under the exhaust manifold and it went real easy. Watch out when jacking the engine because the fan will hit the shroud when you get the engine high enough to get the bolt out and the stud in. The passenger side is actually easier than the drivers because you can pull on the torque wrench instead of pushing on it. Also don't lower the engine and replace the engine mount bolts until you are finished torquing. (Don’t ask me how I learned that LOL) If you end up using ARP Bolts order extra ARP Extra-Torque Lube when you order your studs. The little tube that comes with the bolts may be enough for a lawnmower but not a 7.3 with 36 studs. I previously posted the first two pics but I thought it worth it to put them in this post as well.






The 8 short ARP Studs go above the 8 injector holes.


Wood block under the exhaust manifold.


Lifting the drivers side of the engine.


Stud going in.


21mm engine mount nuts removed. I put blue Loctite back on them because it looked there was some factory stuff on the threads.


Passenger side stud going in with the A/C box in tact.




Real cool Ford Rotunda Valve Spring Compressor. Got it off eBay and it works like a champ it tight places.
 
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#3 ·
Yes, they both need to be removed.
 
#5 ·
On a stand!!! That take all the fun out of it!! The studs came out real easy thanks to Ingersol Rand. If you are using new head gaskets and depending on the type, you may need to get some info from someone more knowledgeable than me on how to properly address that issue. Whatever the case is make sure you have a GOOD torque wrench. I cringe when I see people people spending thousands on components and using a $20 Harbor Freight torque wrench to bolt it all together. Some Harbor freight stuff is OK but I don't trust their precision stuff.
 
#7 ·
I like that valve spring compressor. I need to get one of those. Looks good. I did it without a topside creeper, but I do have a step that goes over the wheel and a stand in front of the motor. Still spent a lot of time on my belly.
 
#11 ·
I have no air tools and even less experience witht he springs and rockers part.... Is it completly necessary to remove the enging bolts and rock it like that with an OBS? I noticed there is alot more space with the obs trucks because they dont sit as far under the back of the engine compartment. and do i need to remove all the rockers and springs?
 
#12 ·
If you are just doing studs you only need to pull the injectors to get at the 8 studs that go under the 8 injector hold downs. The springs/rocker arms only come out if you are doing upgraded valve springs and pushrods.
 
#16 ·
I drather remove springs and rockers than rock the engine so if I removed all springs and rockers would that eleminate the necessity of dismounting the engine and rocking it? i should only have problems with rear cylanders shouldnt I? How bad are push rods to install?
 
#21 ·
I checked and Ive seen your bit on a bent push rod but I didnt find much on in truck instillation. Do they go beneath the springs?
 
#24 ·
Basically remove rocker arm, remove push rod. Here comes the hard part, install pushrod, making sure you put it in the socket in the lifter, not beside it. Install rocker arm. Repeat 15 more times.
 
#27 ·
:confused:
 
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