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Tear Down Started

16K views 151 replies 46 participants last post by  Binder man 
#1 ·


 
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#3 ·
As of right now.

Victor Reins Head Gaskets know as Black Onxy
Swap to 04 Heads, 04 Oil rails, 04 Stand pipe, 04 Water Pump
Bob Rileys Upgraded HPOP,
Innovative Diesel Crack Resistent Y-pipe
New Sinister EGR Delete
Airdog 150
Hellman Sump Pump
Garrett`s Upgraded VGT 63.7mm
Still running 190`s
Autometer HPOP Gauge, Fuel Gauge, Coolant Temp
4 Gauge A pillar, 4 pod overhead

Im not doing a major build like I was before due to taxes I lost some money which cause me to stop, so now Im just doing a small build. Heads are off and cylinder walls and pistons look great. Had 2 broke spool valves in cylinder 1 and 8, Had blown HG's in 5 locations, Gonna be pulling the motor completely out and everthing inside is coming out to be cleaned and flushed, new main bearsing, rod bearings and alot of updated stuff from the factory is going in.
 
#6 ·
This is going to be wicked once it's done! Congrats dude :bowfast:
 
#7 ·
comin together nicely!!!
i've got the same egr delete sitting on my bench at work waiting for an install!!
 
#10 ·
There is just something sexy about shiny new parts!!
 
#13 ·
I was studded by H-11 curious to know why it blew n also why they are only torqued to 195 seems low, guy at the dealer doesn't want to put them back on cause of it.
 
#14 ·
I had the same issue, mine were torque low by the dealer and let go, H11s and all.
But that was a while ago. Been running ARP's since (torqued my H11s twice and went with all new for my engine build) and haven't had any problems since. Torqued down to 275 this time around.
 
#16 ·
The H-11's have a lower torque spec because they are designed different. The thread pitch is different which requires a lower torque by you, but still puts a tighter clamp down.

275ft-lbs for an ARP will surely stretch the stud and make it useless. ARP has this posted right on their website specifically for 6.0 owners.

Found it: ARP | The Official DIESEL Website of Automotive Racing Products Read about half way down the page.
 
#17 ·
The H-11's have a lower torque spec because they are designed different. The thread pitch is different which requires a lower torque by you, but still puts a tighter clamp down.

275ft-lbs for an ARP will surely stretch the stud and make it useless. ARP has this posted right on their website specifically for 6.0 owners.
I had a buddy lose some nuts from his batch of H11s. The ARP nut went right on.
 
#19 ·
Just wondering how much the parts and shop time is going to cost you.
 
#26 ·
Matt. I think doug hit it on the spot the crossbolt that holds the electrical to the sides broke at the nut for what reason I don't know never happened before,

Ivan or Doug I've asked a few folks about reusing my h-11s is that a bad idea ? You said 3 times before final torque ? I don't need hg issues again after doing this should I reuse them or not.


On my crackberry so don't mind the no caps at times
 
#30 ·
Here ya go:

This is straight from the install instruction I have for a new set of H-11's:

1. Remove the existing head bolts, head, and install new gasket. Keep the five bolts labeled on the provided diagram 11-15 (You will reuse these).

2. We recommend that you use a bottoming tap to prepare the threads in the block and be sure to get all oil, fuel, dirt, etc. out of the hole with compressed air (Don't forget the safety glasses).

3. Install the head studs into the locations shown as 1 through 10 in the diagram by hand (Put a small dab of engine oil onto the portion of the studs that will thread into the engine block itself). Make sure the stud "bottoms out" in the hole (only tighten the studs finger tight) Lower the head down over the studs and onto the gasket.

4. Put a small amount of Moly Assembly Lubricant onto the upper threads and on both sides of the provided washer. Torque the studs shown as 1 through 10 to 90 ft-lb going in diagram's sequence (1,2,3...). After all have been torqued, loosen them, repeat the torque sequence to 90 ft-lb, loosen them, then torque in sequence to 130 ft-lb. Once all have been torqued to 130 ft-lb, tighten them in sequence to 175 ft-lb.

NOTE: It is a lot of work to torque, loosen, torque, loosen, torque, and torque again...but it is WELL WORTH IT. Doing this helps seat the threads and will give you the VERY BEST RESULTS. Take the time to do it right so you never have to do it again!

5. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the threads on the bolts (11 through 15) mentioned in step one. Torque these in the 11-16 sequence to 18 ft-lbs. Once all have been torqued, tighten them in sequence to 23 ft-lbs.

DONE! Give your arms a rest!
 
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