I have successfully installed hydraulic assist and want to share some information with everyone that may be interested in doing it themselves. I would say this is a 7 on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10. I do not have torque specs so hopefully someone else can give a bit of info as needed.
Before starting decide if you want to rebuild the steering box while you have it apart. I purchased a rebuild kit from NAPA since I had almost 300k miles. Be sure you get the correct kit as there are different part numbers depending on the number of splines you have on the pitman shaft.
Step 1: Make sure the front tires are straight. Note the position of the pitman arm relative to the steering box. The spline on mine would only allow installation of the arm in 90* increments.
Step 2: Remove the plastic cover over the input shaft and rag joint and slide up on the shaft. Disconnect the power steering lines and drain the fluid into a catch pan. I was able to access this easily with some minor trimming inside the fender well and the extra space with my lift kit.
Step 3: Remove the link end from the pitman arm. They can be removed with some persuation (Hammer) on the arm NOT the link end. This may require a separater available for rent at some local parts stores.
Step 4: the steering box has three bolts through the frame into the box on the back side. Mine had locktight and rust and were a pain to break loose. Remove the top bolt and then rethread it back in by hand a turn or so to hold the box. You can remove the other bolts completely. The box will shift when the oter two are taken out. Lay on your back and remove the remaining bolt and lower the box.
Step 5: If the steering box is dirty plug the box where the lines go and wash it. It is almost impossible to keep things clean on the inside if it is dirty outside.
Step 6: Remove the pitman arm from the shaft. This should require a puller. (Also available at the local parts store)
Step 7: Have another catch pan available. It will get messy in a hurry. Clamp the box in a vise if available. Remove the bolts in the box directly above the pitman shaft. The adjustment bolt and lock nut can be left alone. With a rubber mallot break the cap plate loose. Do not try to rotate the cap only loosen it. You may need to pry with a screwdriver around several sides to get the cap up. As the cap moves up the pitman arm will follow it up. The fluid inside the box will drain when the pitman shaft gets high enough. Pull the shaft and cap out all together. NOTE: The pitman arm will not come out if the box has been turned off center.
Step 8: Now remove the 4 bolts around the valve housing (Where the lines hook up). With the bolts removed tap with a mallot to break it loose. There is a small O-ring where the housings meet together. When separated slide the input shaft and valve housing out together. The input shaft will spin when you pull it out. Once it bottoms out one direction the piston will come out also on the same shaft. If you are not rebuilding the box just put the input assembly in a clean area to await reassembly.
Step 9: Clean out the housing with carb cleaner. You can see on the top of the housing where it has a port in the housing from the valve housing all the way to the end of the box. This will be one of the tap points. The othe is at the area close to the pitman shaft.
Pics in next thread.
Before starting decide if you want to rebuild the steering box while you have it apart. I purchased a rebuild kit from NAPA since I had almost 300k miles. Be sure you get the correct kit as there are different part numbers depending on the number of splines you have on the pitman shaft.
Step 1: Make sure the front tires are straight. Note the position of the pitman arm relative to the steering box. The spline on mine would only allow installation of the arm in 90* increments.
Step 2: Remove the plastic cover over the input shaft and rag joint and slide up on the shaft. Disconnect the power steering lines and drain the fluid into a catch pan. I was able to access this easily with some minor trimming inside the fender well and the extra space with my lift kit.
Step 3: Remove the link end from the pitman arm. They can be removed with some persuation (Hammer) on the arm NOT the link end. This may require a separater available for rent at some local parts stores.
Step 4: the steering box has three bolts through the frame into the box on the back side. Mine had locktight and rust and were a pain to break loose. Remove the top bolt and then rethread it back in by hand a turn or so to hold the box. You can remove the other bolts completely. The box will shift when the oter two are taken out. Lay on your back and remove the remaining bolt and lower the box.
Step 5: If the steering box is dirty plug the box where the lines go and wash it. It is almost impossible to keep things clean on the inside if it is dirty outside.
Step 6: Remove the pitman arm from the shaft. This should require a puller. (Also available at the local parts store)
Step 7: Have another catch pan available. It will get messy in a hurry. Clamp the box in a vise if available. Remove the bolts in the box directly above the pitman shaft. The adjustment bolt and lock nut can be left alone. With a rubber mallot break the cap plate loose. Do not try to rotate the cap only loosen it. You may need to pry with a screwdriver around several sides to get the cap up. As the cap moves up the pitman arm will follow it up. The fluid inside the box will drain when the pitman shaft gets high enough. Pull the shaft and cap out all together. NOTE: The pitman arm will not come out if the box has been turned off center.
Step 8: Now remove the 4 bolts around the valve housing (Where the lines hook up). With the bolts removed tap with a mallot to break it loose. There is a small O-ring where the housings meet together. When separated slide the input shaft and valve housing out together. The input shaft will spin when you pull it out. Once it bottoms out one direction the piston will come out also on the same shaft. If you are not rebuilding the box just put the input assembly in a clean area to await reassembly.
Step 9: Clean out the housing with carb cleaner. You can see on the top of the housing where it has a port in the housing from the valve housing all the way to the end of the box. This will be one of the tap points. The othe is at the area close to the pitman shaft.
Pics in next thread.