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best place to get ball joints?

3K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  me2 
#1 ·
ok so im going to be doin the ball joints on my truck 99 f-250 4x4. i need to order some ball joints but need some insight. im looking for a good ball joint i heard moog is good but what about others? where is the cheapest place to order them from. anyinfo would be great thanks. what kinds have you guys used?
 
#2 ·
I got mine at napa. Upper and lower together was around $130 or something best I remember for one side.
 
#3 ·
i went to the local auto parts store for my moogs, they were about 300 for all.
 
#4 ·
Oddly enough I got my Moogs from Amazon for about $140 shipped. Just don't be in a hurry though, took almost a month to get them. Locally best price I got was $280 which for me was enough reason to wait it out!
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
ok i found them on rockauto.com both top and bottom for $94. how much do the seals run at ford? do they usually have them in stock?
 
#8 ·
i will be gettin moogs...also should i get a new camber bushing?
 
#9 ·
any other brands good besides moog? just curious
 
#10 ·
I would also recommend the powerstrokeshop.com kit. It come with all the axle seals (inner and outer) and the auto lock hub oring. Usually if your truck hasn't had the ball joints done the seals will be on there way out, especially the axle seals.

Basically you need.

Ball joints (upper and lower both sides)
(2) O-rings for locking hubs (will cover both sides)
(2) Inner axles seals
(2) Outer axles seals

here is the most complete write up on it that you will fine.

Untitled 1
 
#12 ·
The only thing i don't like about powerstrokeshop is there customer service, it's gone down hill lately, you can't ever to seem to get them on the phone.
 
#13 ·
Thats what I ran into when I was wanting to order some parts. Never got anyone on the phone. Ended up getting my parts elsewhere.
 
#17 ·
:whs: Never had any problems with them.
 
#18 ·
i ordered moog ball joints, do i need the camber/caster bushing?
 
#19 ·
Not if you don't mess it up when you remove the knuckle. Easiest way to avoid it is to get the point where you can remove the knuckle and the only thing that is hold it in place in the ball joints.

Either take a sledge hammer and smack the upper ball joint and usually the hold knuckle will pop off.

Or take a pickle fork and place it in between the lower ball joint and the knuckle, drive it in and usually the knuckle pops off.

Or you can use a combination of the two methods. Check out the write up link, it explains it a little in there.
 
#20 ·
yea i read it a few times already lol. if i do mess it up which one should i replace it with? there are several diff degress's of adjustment? ill just try to be carefull.....but sometimes Poo happens...
 
#21 ·
Well honestly i've never replaced that part, never had to. Wish i could help you out on this one

It's fairly easy to avoid damaging it with the sledge/pickle fork method on the lower ball joint
 
#23 ·
well i did the ball joints last weekend and all i can say is im glad its over with....
 
#25 ·
ha well ya see what happend was......i had to stop and go get parts tools and such several times and eat so it took me all day sat and then i finished up sun...would have been done alot sooner sun if i could have just put the brake shield on right the 1st time or 2nd time or maybe even the 3rd time or could have finally been the 5th time i got it right lol. i was tired and had other stuff on my mind. on yea and the axle seal just sets up against the axle and the shaft..i thought it went into the axle housing well that was a $20 mistake or more like $33 mistake. just take your time its not that hard at all if you have the right tools.
 
#26 ·
I just did one of my upper ball joints on Friday. (2WD truck.. bottom joint was fine.)

I bought a ball joint press (huge C clamp) and it went pretty well, once I was able to pound out the bottom joint. You can't use a pickle fork on the bottom joint unless you are going to replace it because it will wreck the seal.

I bought a Dana brand upper joint from NAPA for $45. They had another brand, but the Danas were highly recommended and had a grease zirk. The stock ones didn't.

My upper ball joints lasted 120,000 miles on rough roads. I think that is pretty good. These trucks are pretty tough.

The one I replaced was totally shot. The other one is OK yet, just a big of play. I'll replace it when things slow down. I am surprised at how tight the front suspension is on my truck for how much abuse it has seen.
 
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