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Breakaway Battery Wiring

2K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  House 
#1 ·
After some issues I had on a recent road trip with my gooseneck it is time for some major re-wiring for the entire trailer. I have had issues since day one of buying this brand new trailer in 2006 and am tired of pretending its nothing major.

I have a 36' Load Trail gooseneck with a hydraulic beaver tail. It has electric over hydraulic disk brakes and they work like a charm - Except when the on board battery for the hydraulic dove is dead - which is always because the damn break away controller AND the on board hydrualic unit draw constantly on the on board battery even when its not hooked up. Since I had a major tail light malfunction now its time to fix all the problems and be done with it. This trailer has enough scotch lock connectors from the factory to make me puke and the wiring is the only serious complaint I have about the trailer.

So on to my real question - has anyone wired in a relay and some diodes so the onboard breakaway battery and hydraulic control does draw current unless the trailer is hooked to the truck OR the emergency breakaway is activated? I have some ideas on how to do this, but haven't sat down and penciled them all out yet. I was hoping this is a problem that is solved and I can just "copy" (for lack of a better term) the solution and be done with it.

Thanks!
Jason
 
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#3 ·
(scratches head)

I guess a big ass rotary battery disconnect switch is too simple?
Yes it is. I am not the only one that uses this trailer and I need it to be idiot proof 100%. I do not want to get the phone call saying that the brakes aren't working on the trailer and they ran a stop sign and killed somebody because they didn't check to make sure they worked before leaving the farm. "Um well did ya turn the big red switch?" just doesn't cut it in that situation. Besides, I bet a couple of diodes and a relay cost about the same or less than that switch.
 
#4 ·
When I started ready the first part of the post. I thought of a relay and diode. The diode would prevent the trailer battery from triggering the relay coil. You'd have to sever the 12V charge line completely to install the diode. Not to mention the diode would need to be rated for high current. A battery isolator comes to mind for a possible means to isolate the relay.

How about using a relay with a lever actuated snap action switch on the landing gear.

Landing gear up = brakes, Landing gear down = no power to brakes? They only issue would be when you are hooked up for a long period of time without running the engine.
 
#5 ·
I didn't know a trailer breakaway draws power even when it's not activated?

What about a disconnect switch between the beavertail and the battery? And why does it draw power when not in use?

Dave
 
#6 ·
The breakaway battery draws current to recharge from the on board battery - but I think the real issue is the constant 12V draw from the electric over hydraulic breaks. That unit uses a 12V constant hot plus the break signal coming from the break controller.

I have decided that I should be able to manage the entire system using about 3 well placed diodes and use the on board battery for the breakaway circuit instead of having the dedicated battery and charger. I just haven't had a chance to go wire up this nonsense yet. It will probably happen this weekend since I need to use the trailer next week.
 
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