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Convert to manual hubs

21K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  Highbeam 
#1 ·
What does it take to get rid of these vac locking hubs and go with the old manual locking, warn or milemarker hubs. Does someone make a kit or could a guy get a set a just put them in whats the difference.
 
#2 ·
if you buy the front hub assembly (bearing ) you have a choice between ones with the hoses or with out.iirc and all you have to do is lock them in if you want to know they are for sure locked in. i got rid of the switch in the cab as well going to manual shift on the tcase
 
#3 ·
Whats the difference in the assemblies, the splines or just the way there sealed for the vac. I too want to do away with the vac but dont need hub assembly yet. Just a piss poor design need to do away and just get the 3/4 locking hubs.
 
#5 ·
Any specific year or just order a set for a 03... and be done with it
 
#9 ·
I just folded mine in half and zip tied them. no issues.

I think the major issue of not plugging them is when 4x4 is engaged your heater/ac will always blow on defrost, the vacuum controls your blower position.

Others may chime in with other things it affects.
 
#10 ·
I just got a bolt that was just a little bigger then the line and shoved up in them and it plugged them.

And Brian is correct. The AC/Heater vents wont change if you dont plug the lines.
 
#11 ·
Ok well I have milemarker hubs on my truck and the lines are not plugged. Where are the lines at? Do you got a pic? Also my vents for heat and ac have not worked is this my problem then to get them fixed? My vents dont work at all though and not only when im in 4x4 but all the time I have no air coming through vents and only defrost.
 
#13 ·
The lines might also be removed. You can plug the line that controls the hubs. It connects up on the passenger side fender under the hood. This is where I plugged mine at.
 
#14 ·
Yeah just plug the line or unplug the switch. I think theres a tee by the vacume pump that you can plug and make it look good. I kinda like my e hubs, so there staying around.


Dan
 
#15 ·
Ok I found the lines and just unhooked them from the hubs and plugged them with bolts. I got in truck and turned the ac on through vents and still nothing so I switched it to 4x4 and it started working. Swithed back to 4x2 and was working. I shut the air off and when I turned it back on it was only blowing out defrost again. I switched it back to 4x4 and it started working again. Whats the deal why does it go in and out but when I switch it to 4x4 and back to 4x2 the air will blow out vents now with the lines plugged?
 
#18 ·
I tried going to manual hubs. I got a set or premium hubs form warn. Installed them and they were loose. I could chuck them in and out about a 1/4". I had the outside snap ring installed right, but there wasn't a key way on the axle shaft for the inside snap ring. It said in the instructions that you didn't need to install that one, but with just the outside one installed, they were loose. I'm talking hubs completely installed. Cap screwed on, everything. You could grab the whole hub, and chuck them in and out.
 
#20 ·
Sounds like you didnt know what you where doing or got the wrong hubs. I have put them in MANY trucks and never had any issues
 
#23 ·
When this is figured out it's really gonna help me, im ready to ditch the crapped out autolocks NOW! They stick, cleaned them so many times, now one is stuck locked and i knew better but was pissed so gave it its last rights with a pair of pliers. Dont want rattling hubs as here in VT, our roads are like motocross tracks. Also my heat only works on defrost. What hub is best, and vacuum leak causes this heater issue?2002 superduty 7.3, x cab xlt sb,quadzilla,cold air intake, banks dp and cat delete kits,billet grille, hard tonneau,
 
#24 ·
The milemarkers I have are "loose" too. Not 1/4" but enough to wiggle and rattle if the road is just bumpy enough. MM's response was the same as Warn, sent me more snap rings to add. The problem is that Ford used that big, thick, round wire snap ring on the OEM hubs and for some reason, the aftermarket guys insist on using a thin snap ring that does not fill the large groove in the hub.

It's totally worth it though. The MM hubs are very positive and easy to lock and unlock.
 
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