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Fuse 22 blown.. what could be the culprit

51K views 33 replies 14 participants last post by  WhatdaF250 
#1 ·
Driving home last night and the truck just shut off. Started looking into the fuse box and found fuse #22 blown. I replaced it, turned the ignition back on to see if it would start and it blew #22 again. Unplugged the fuel bowl heater and no change.

what else could be the culprit? I have a WTS and all other dash lights light when I attempt to start it. However, I have no fuel pressure.

Something has gone south and is taking fuse 22 with it, any help is appreciated.

Pat
 
#2 ·
Update.

Replaced fuse #22 and got the truck running, but it blew again after about 30 mins of running. Replaced it again and got it home. Sometimes this fuse blows instantly sometimes not. I have already unplugged the fuel bowl, that did not seem to matter.

So far I have gone through 4 20A fuses in #22 position. I have also replaced the PCM Power relay.

Something seems to be shorting out and taking fuse 22 along.

Any insight is greatly apreciated
 
#3 ·
Fuel bowl heater shorting. Unplug it. Problem should go away
 
#5 ·
What wires are you talking about? First thing I did was unplug the fuel bowl heater, and left it unplugged.
 
#6 ·
The harness that you unplugged were any of the wires bare?
 
#7 ·
No, no bare wires. Right now I have the batts charged all the way, fuel bowl heater plugged in and it starts and runs like old times. I know it will short out and die, but I don't know when.

This morning I went through 2 x 20A fuses in the number 22 position before the third did not short out. It then started and I went to drive home form the parking lot where it died. On the drive home it died once again. This was with the fuel bowl heater unplugged. I put another 20A in #22 and it started and I got 'er home.

Since then I have charged the batts full, plugged the fuel bowl heater back in and it starts and runs. While running I wiggled the wiring harness around in the valley and fuel bowl heater plug but no change, just keeps running.

I just got back from Colorado, put 3K on it this week and it ran fine. Glad this did not happen on the road.

Pat
 
#8 ·
I have a WTS and all other dash lights light when I attempt to start it. However, I have no fuel pressure.
The above eliminates the fuel bowl heater and points toward a fuel pump fuse or relay. When the FBH shorts and pops the fuse you will still have fuel pressure.

What does the owners manual say fuse 22 is for?

The Expedition may have a slightly different fuse box layout than the F's.
 
#9 ·
Fuse #22 is for "Fuel Injectors, Powertrain Control Module" in my alldata. That's how it acts when fuse 22 blows. No fuel pressure and no connection to the ODBII port. My DP Tuner gauge switch goes dark as well.

The only way to know the fuse blew other than it won't start is to see 0 fuel psi on the gauge and the DP tuner switch is dark.

Just wish I knew what was causing the fuse to blow.
 
#11 ·
Replace the 20 amp with a thirty amp. Look for smoke. J/K

But I have done it that way on old pre-electronic cars.
 
#14 ·
Just eliminate that from the equasion. So you know it is not that.
It is a high resistance short so as to not blow the fuse. If for some reason or a nother it is not going thru the heating element and dead shorting straight to ground it will blow fuses.
 
#16 ·
I have looked at all the power point fuses and cig lighter. They are all good. The IPR is a good suggestion. I have had a smallish oil leak from the HPOP gasket, or something under the HPOP, nothing really but just enough to make a mess. I noticed some residual oil on the IPR connector. I am going to clean it all off and try to finally isolate the leak. I have all the gaskets and seal to remove, clean and reseal the HPOP.

While the engine was running I did wiggle the wiring harness around in that area, fuel bowl heater, IPR, etc... No change, just kept running.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
#17 ·
Last time I popped fuses on Jizzy the main harness was rubbing on its mount where it crosses the Drivers Valve cover.I never noticed it and went through 10 fuses.Every time I hit a bump it would blow the fuse and kill the truck.

I ripped the ####ing mount out.Some how the tab was broken and the damn harness wouldn't stay on it.

Basically I would bet you have a chafe somewhere hidden that is ####ing you.
 
#18 ·
I agree and I am looking for the problem, but it will not reproduce itself. With the engine running I have gone through the entire harness above the engine, wiggling and shaking the wiring harness and looking for shorts. The only thing I changed was the PCM relay, but I am sure that was not the fix.
 
#20 ·
When I did it, it was with the round glass fuses, we just wrapped them with the foil from a pack of smokes.
 
#22 ·
what works really good is to go to an electrical store that has parts for like stoves/washers/dryers/etc and buy yourself a circuit breaker in the amperage of your choosing, solder a couple of leads to it and put flat connectors on the ends that you can plug into both fuse slots. If the short is present it will trip the breaker, but you can just push the button to reset it and continue looking. I'll try to remember to grab one of mine from work and post up a pic.
 
#26 ·
They make auto-reset circuit breakers down to 20 amps. They are specified for electric brake controller units so that your brakes will come back after shorting. Good for 12 volts and would work well in this application. Great idea!
 
#27 ·
I am going to get some of those today. I have gone through a couple fuses since Sunday. I am looking into some electrical diagnosis tools like a breakout test box for the PCM and IDM etc. Seems like everything I am looking into these days is related to the electrical system. A couple GP codes from a while back and now this and I am getting close to 200k.
 
#28 ·
Well, I found out what the problem was, at least it appears it was the problem. The steel braided line from my EGT probe in the drivers side exh manifold was rubbing against another steel braided line I had in place for the CCV mod. Somehow it must have been shorting out and blowing the fuse. I initially had the power supply for the gauges on that fuse because it is a switched ignition fuse. I removed the CCV steel braided line and it has been fine for 500 miles so far.

I noticed it because my EGT gauge was bouncing around instead of smoothly moving up and down.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for the heads up on that stuff.

Sometimes you just have to laugh at what you find causing electrical issues.
 
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