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Lets see your traction bars!!!!

240K views 295 replies 93 participants last post by  BernieMac96 
#1 ·
Post the pics of your traction bars, home made or bought, include some basic info about your bars and a rough cost on how much you have in them.

Ill start off, no ratchet strap comments please LOL






not sure the specs on the tubes but they are 1/4 wall i think 2 inch, traction blocks were home made, kinda like the OUO ones, the bushing on the end is off a 90 F-150 with a 7/8bolt welded in the tube, onlyhad 30 bucks in them for the bushings, and bolts, the rest i had material laying around.
 
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#14 ·
I have a set on mine from tuff country, cost me $350, just a bolt on set
older pics:




Newer pic with full view of truck for size comparison, they arent too big and thats what I wanted
 
#15 ·



All home made
 
#21 ·
It depends on what you are going for. I havent ever tried using the longer style bars, because they seem to me that they would cause binding, and limit suspension travel. I measured mine, and made them as close to a parrallel 4 link as possible. Which helps keeps the pinion pointed were it should, throughout the cycling of the suspension. It just makes sense to me.
 
#20 ·
Not really, Generally speaking the longer the better, but obviously short ones work too. mine are 78", most people shoot for the flat spot where the frame comes back down near the front of the bed, if that made any sense.
 
#28 ·
Here are some I built for PSDTRAV's truck







 
#30 ·
Some of mine before coating





 
#33 ·
Why cant the bar be attached to the top of the axel up and out of the way. Upon acceleration it seems it would pull on the bars rather than push. It also seems the bars would be more level and alow for more suspetion traval before binding.

Am i just missing somthing?
 
#34 ·
Because thats were the spring pack attaches, which is also the pivot point. So adding a bar there would do virtually nothing. On a truck with 4" + lift blocks, it would help, and be similar to a truck without the lift blocks, and mounted to the bottom of the axle. Think leverage. The closer you are to the pivot point (were the spring pack mounts) the more stress you put into the bars. Level, is not exactly what you should be looking for in a traction bar. You want them to be mounted as such, so they are in the range of motion, of the axle tube itself, which goes in an arc pattern from the fixed (front) leafspring mount.
 
#35 ·
Ok I got a 2in lift block on my rear and yes I am getting alot of vibration of the start and axle wrap even going down the road if I stomp it where can I buy some good ones or I can take it to the race chasis shop that is building is starting to build my mustang and get him to make a custum set for it or what? Thanks
Here are some I was told bout are they any good?
Anti wheel hop bars!!! - Power Hungry Performance Forums
 
#53 ·
would this setup work good for a stock F350 ride with dual's??
 
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