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Please post pic or description of your two piece intake here.

3K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  Big Bore 
#1 ·
I know there are at least a few of you who have the CFM, and I know others have modded thier spider and fabbed a V-clamp for the compressor side. I'm interested in possibly fabbing my own setup or having it fabbed, the V-band tube is probaby outside of my welding skills. However I could very easily chop the Y portion off myself. I'm also wondering how necessary some of those connections are on the Y. Would like to delete as much as possible.
 
#3 ·
Gee, that sounds economical.:doh:
 
#4 ·
With a set of 175's I couldn't imagine why someone would sell their 38r for an H2e. The 38R is definitely the better turbo for that application IMO.
 
#5 ·
Wow you didn't get far with this one. I am in the same boat and have been getting all the info I can to do the same mod. Don't know how much of the extra stuff you can remove though.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Here ya go I'll help out with as much as I can. This is one of the idea I was coming up with. Using Smokyred's idea. That will give you a little head start.

Custom Y Intake


Hope this helps. Are you using your stock spyder or did you find another one to practice on?
 
#11 ·
Good link!:postwhore2:

I was hoping to find a spare just in case I screw up and that would allow me to make it and not have down time on the truck.
 
#8 ·
I have modded a few stockers for people going to a H2e set up. Its not hard, just takes some time with the band saw and grinder...






 
#10 ·
Thanks Joe. I didnt think it would be too hard to cut the spider down, I seem to recall someone giving advice concerning where not to cut in another thread. Fabbing the L off the comp seems the tricky part, esp for a stock type setup like mine.

Does anyone have a source for a weld on V-band?
 
#14 ·
Speaking of I need to make a phone call to see if I can get my hands on one. Joe that looks good. Looks almost like you knew what you were doing. LOL LOL

J/K I might need your help.
 
#16 ·
I used 2 3" radius 90* bends to make my Y-pipe. I got them in stainless from Woolf Aircraft out of Michigan.

Pic

A little bit of fab work and you have a really nice piece.

Dave
 
#19 ·
Here's a pic of the one I made. Fyi I made the v band clamp adaptor on the lathe.
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Joe, I hate to bug you about this, but which weld on V-band in that link is the one I need? I plan to order it asap. Maybe I'll just give them a call if I can get into cell range today.
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
I wonder if the Cummins 90 posted here by Redsmokey would work on the 38r. Anyone know?

I couldn't find a stocker nearby for the life of me. And making something special is always nicer, goes with the few other things I've custom made. :D





Dave
 
#26 ·
No the S465 has a way bigger outlet than the 38R, and I'm not Redsmokey, he has a lifted SD, lol.

My Y is such a close fit to my plenums I am very sure the Y will not pop out of the boots, no need for a holding strap.

Dave
 
#24 · (Edited)
Frank, here is what I had to do to fab up the piece to mate up to the 38r on my obs. I reused my old downpipe clamp as that fit when the SD clamp did not.

I was able adapt my Banks downpipe to work with the new charger. There was enough room in the slip joint to extend the length out around an inch. I cut off the flange at the weld line with a chop saw. I had a couple of flanges off of stock SD downpipes and cut one of those off at the right point to where it would just slip over the 3" banks pipe.





I tacked it into place and had Alan Black tig weld it up. Rocky at Rockin-S-Performance was nice enough to let us use his shop for the welding. The downpipe clamp is Ford part number XC3Z-5A231-AA which is a normal SD piece.

On the intake side I wanted to retain my Banks twin ram intake on the cold side. The alternative would be use a SD intake spider with SD intake manifolds, boots, clamps, etc. I bought a 3" stainless V-band flange, a 3" stainless elbow, and a stainless weld bung at www.atpturbo.com to fabricate the needed hot side piece. I used these parts to duplicate the Banks part but with the proper 3" end on the compressor side.





Alan Black also Tig welded these parts for me once they were tacked up. Rocky Horn rolled a bead on the boot end at his shop for me.

The other modification needed to make this work was to cut and rotate the Banks intercooler pipe to bring the end higher forward to match up to the compressor outlet piece. I cut the pipe at a 30deg angle in the straight verticle section and rotated it forward about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. The pipe was again tacked and tig welded.



The turbocharger outlet is not quite a standard 3" v band flange however luckily enough by using my old downpipe clamp it worked out nicely and properly compresses the o-ring. The other item needed is a new Compressor outlet/discharge O-ring Ford F81Z-9E436-AA or International 1831227C1.
 
#25 ·
Damn Tom,

i forgot how clean things are under the hood of your truck.

One thing you guys running a ton of boost might want to consider, is attaching a bracket or support from your new y down to the valley of the motor. This helps hold the y in place, besides with just the clamps holding the y to the plenums. The factory y has the vband attached to the turbo outlet, and this applies the support from the factory.
 
#27 ·
Makes me want to start cutting and welding everytime I see this Thread. I was wondering about attaching something to hold the Y in place. thesleeper said something to me about that.
 
#28 ·
Well, looks like I need to get a 3" weld on V-band.
 
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