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What have you guys used to clear oil out when you put in an injector? Syringe?

2K views 28 replies 18 participants last post by  stroked 
#1 ·
I may tackle going after my LL this weekend. I would like to hunt down whatever I may need to do this. From what I understand this is a critical step. Thanks.
 
#9 ·
Crank it over with rags stuffed in the injector hole. Change rags, Repeat another time or two. Works well for me if you dont want to pull the GP's.
Every time you crank the engine the HPOP tries to fill the rail so the oil coming out of the cylinder and the rails are soaked up with the rag in the injector hole. It's too easy to just remove the GP after you install the injector.
 
#6 ·
What do you unplug to make sure the truck does not fire? I guess I could put my chip in "no start" right? Thanks for the help. This will be my first time pulling off a valve cover on a diesel.
 
#7 ·
#11 ·
i've found that the HPOP won't get enough oil down the rails in the few revs it takes to clear the cylinders.
when I did my injectors, I cleared it through the injector's hole. worked fine.
 
#14 ·
I assume I would have to remove just the one gp, right?
 
#16 ·
Pull the GP's. I've tried the syringe and rags. Pulling GP's is by far the easiest. And it's also an opportunity to replace them if the existing have a lot of miles on them and winter is coming.
 
#17 ·
Since your only doing one injector, before you rremove the old one have the new one ready to go and within reach, remove the old one and quickly install the new one. This will keep the amout of fluid that goes into the cylinder to a minimum. Remove the glow plug for that one cylinder, unplug the UVCH on BOTH sides so the truck will not start. Put the valve cover back on with just 1 or 2 bolts to hold it in place, this will keep the oil/fuel from spraying all over the side of your truck. Just to be safe, turn the engine over by hand a few times with a breaker bar or large ratchet just to make sure you don't hydrolock the motor. Now bump it over a few times with the starter to get a little more fuel/oil out of there ( your not going to get every last drop). Re-install glow plug and put everything else back together. Start the truck, it may crank for a few seconds before it fires off, when it does start it may smoke for a few minutes, this is normal, let it run for a little bit then go drive it to get all the air out of the HPOP system.
 
#19 ·
:whs:

Worked perfect for me. While putting everything back together, every few minutes, I would crank the motor over for about 10 seconds or so. I have a remote starter button, makes it simple.
 
#18 ·
I like my RSP suction tool.

Tom
 
#22 ·
Removed the small inner hpo plug towards the back of the head on the inside of the V. Use the tool that was recomended in post #2 or something similar to remove the oil from the hpo rail. Reinstall plug when done. Drain the fuel bowl. Remove the fuel line for the left head at the regulator and cap off the regulator but not the line. Blow air in fuel line and out into the bowl or the other way around until all of the fuel is out of the head.

Remove the injector and make sure there is no debris in the sleeve. Install the new injector and torque everything to spec. Leave the glow plug in. Turn the engine over with a ratchet at the damper pulley to make sure it does not hydro lock.

Remove the icp sensor. Fill the hpo rail with new oil. Reinstall the sensor and bump the engine over with the key. Start the motor.

Aaron
 
#23 ·
Wow, there are some different theories on this. Do I need to remove the plugs inside the rail? I was going to:
1. remove these plugs and the one entering the rail from the HPOP.
2. remove injector
3. remove gp
4. reinstall injector
4. mighty vac or syringe the oil out of the GLOW PLUG hole.
5. I can then spin the motor by hand with a 24 mm socket and bar and the remaining oil and fuel should come out of the injector and gp hole.
6. reinstall rail plugs
7. close up valve cover

Does this sound right? Now the questions:
Is it necessary to crank by hand, if I already sucked the oil and fuel out with the pump?
 
#24 ·
Wow, there are some different theories on this. Do I need to remove the plugs inside the rail? NO I was going to:
1. remove these plugs and the one entering the rail from the HPOP.
2. remove injector
3. remove gp
3a. mighty vac or syringe the oil out of the INJECTOR hole.
4. reinstall injector
4. mighty vac or syringe the oil out of the GLOW PLUG hole.
5. I can then spin the motor by hand with a 24 mm socket and bar and the remaining oil and fuel should come out of the injector and gp hole.
6. reinstall rail plugs
7. close up valve cover with 2 bolts, hand tight.
8. Crank engine with starter a few times (harness unpluged).
9. Install GP's
10. Install valve covers and everything else.

Does this sound right? Now the questions:
Is it necessary to crank by hand, if I already sucked the oil and fuel out with the pump? It will remove most of the fluid.
A few changes.
 
#25 ·
Thank you blowby.
Just to clarify, leave all the rail plugs, internal and the 5/8 one on the outside behind the alternator, alone? Is this only necessary if removing all 4 injectors?
Also, just thinking out loud, won't I have to temporarily reinstall the battery to get the truck to crank with the starter. I say reinstall, because won't I have to remove it to remove the air cleaner housing to remove the intercooler tube? I believe the steps before "remove valve cover" will include:
1. remove batt
2. remove air cleaner
3. remove intercooler tube

Just trying to plan this all out before I realize I need a tool that I don't own.
For example, I don't own a 5/8 square key to remove the external plug on the rail. Thanks.
 
#26 ·
I haver never removed the batteries to pull valve covers, I don't even disconnect them.

I simply pull the injector, pull the glow plug.

Replace the injector.

Bar the engine over by hand.

Temp install valve cover.

Bump engine over with a remote start button attached across the starter relay. If you don't have a remote start button, an old screwdriver works well.

remove valve cover

replace glowplug.

Reassemble everything, stopping to crank engine with the key for 15 seconds every few minutes.

When you get it all buttonned up, start the motor.
 
#27 ·
I thought I would have to remove the intercooler tube and to do so, I beleive I need to remove my AIS snorkel, which I think needs the batt to go bye bye. Are you removing the intercooler tube? Thanks
 
#29 ·
unplug the cps, with the injector out, put the valve cover on with 2 or 3 bolts, crank it a little, remove valve cover, install injector
 
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