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Sound System just about done.

4K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Gotti2k7 
#1 ·
Well after every shop around town told me that there is no way that you could fit 2 12" fosgate P1s in a Crew Cab Superduty I had to prove em wrong. With a lil help from fosgate.com and a box i found on e bay with the dimensions on the ad, i played with the numbers and my box is 2.24 cu. ft.
If anyone needs the measurments just let me know, ill be more than glad to give them to you. I only have to move my seat up about 2 inches.

I got my box build and the truck wired with a 4 gauge kit from hooker audio. The box has two or three small air leaks in it so tomorrow im gonna coat it with a quart of herculiner that away it will fo sho be air tight:D. Ill get some pics up for you guys tomorrow, and im gonna go by every audio shop in town to show then that it CAN be done with minor modifications.

Id like to get some speakers for the front doors next(im not gonna do the rear i think it would be a waste.) I think the stockers are 6x9s, should i go back with some 6x9s or should i try and run a round speaker in there and if so and suggestions on size or brand?
 
#3 ·
I'm pretty sure they are 5x6's in the back. And yes, I would replace the ones in the back it does make a difference, even with subs back there. Kicker makes a nice speaker to fit back there. Another option to do is add a component system in the back door (on the bottom with the woofer and the top area for the tweeter) and then run them with an amp. I would do this before putting speakers in the stock location in the back. If you need pics of this I can send a few of my back door for an idea. I did this in an OBS but its easy in a superduty aswell.
 
#4 ·
I did my sound system a few years back and have 2 x 10 P1 Fosgate Subs in boxes behind my CC rear seat with no modifications. I also replaced all factory speakers with Sony Xplode 160w speakers and push the subs and front speakers with a Fosgate 1800w amp. I listen to country, so this system works well if you are not trying to notify the neighborhood that you are listening to rap or heavy bassed music.
 
#5 ·
hey plato-350 pics would help alot.

I hooked the 12s up outside the truck and they sounded really good so once everything is hookup in the truck it will sound much better.

And pics are coming sometime today.
 
#6 ·
What do you mean when you say you had to move your seat up about 2"? You had to actually unbolt it and drill new mounting holes for it?
 
#12 ·
that is correct danny.
 
#7 ·
sounds good, looking forward to the pics. Stock speakers are 5x8's front and back I believe, fronts in the doors, rears are down low in the c-pillars pretty much suffocated by the back seat. I would start at the front and replace them with some 6.5" or 6.75" round speakers.

I don't think you'll notice the lack of rear speakers, but rear passengers certainly will. I would definitely look to putting some in the doors before replacing the stockers in the rear.
 
#8 ·
The stock speaker size in almost all Fords and Mazdas are 6x8" speakers (basically they are a 5x7 with extra holes).
 
#10 ·
:doh::doh: looks like lots of people getting mistaken :pointlaugh:

to try and redeem myself...

Its not the best pic and not what I ended up with ultimately (lost the speaker grill mount, and dropped to 1/2" mdf instead of 3/4" MDF) but this is my 6.75" mid mounted to the door without any metal cutting. This can even be done without an adapter ring, just have to hold the speaker there mark and drill 4 new holes.

 
#11 ·
Thats what I did in mine, but i took a 5.5" hole saw and cut right through the door panel and the metal behind it. The 6.5" speaker fit perfect. Like i was saying i'll post some pics up later as soon as i get home from the lake. jdc753 thats the best way to get some good rockin' tunes in the back. I also replaced the stock speakers in the back pillar to get an even better sound. jdc753 thats looks good, that will be a good reference for Choupique108 since he has a superduty. I'll still post some pics.
 
#13 ·
here are the pics guys..









I will get some of them actually in the truck some time today or tomorrow but i can tell you one thing, They sound awesome. Now i just need some door speakers.
 
#14 ·
I will get some of them actually in the truck some time today or tomorrow but i can tell you one thing, They sound awesome. Now i just need some door speakers.
There is the key for ya right there. Thanks for the pics, looks pretty good. Box looks solid, specially good with the brace/divider in the middle. I also like the use of the split loom to dress up the wires, nice to see some wire care added instead of just letting them string out wherever.
 
#16 ·
So have you done that door seal mod yet??? LOL

Good to see ya again.
 
#18 ·
Nails and wood glue work way better than screw. Screws blow out the wood unless you pre drill every hole. I used to use screws, back 14 years ago. Now just some good wood glue and angle nail some finish nails. Plus its much faster to build that way.
 
#21 ·
I still like to use screws for anything with 3/4 or bigger material, can't go wrong having a mechanical and chemical joint, unless of course you do blow out the wood, but of course this goes on doing things right.

For 1/2" brad nailer is THE ONLY way to go, sooo much faster and better. Can be done on 3/4" as well but its personal prefernce. I know a few box builders who swear on never using screws and their boxes work great, but it won't hurt to use them, and sometimes you need them.

a little plug but this guy builds some the THE BEST boxes I have ever seen, Fisher Customs - A Leader in Car Audio Fabrication
 
#22 ·
yeah i always thought that with the pressure over time the nails wouldnt hold up but i guess im wrong lol
 
#25 ·
You always need wood glue when nailing boxes together. Or the vibration of the subs will back the nail out. Hell ive had snap before without wood glue. Always glue the box. Then a bead of floor adhesive is the best thing to seal the box up with.
 
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