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Motor is back in...

13K views 147 replies 43 participants last post by  CSIPSD 
#1 ·
Will fire off starting fluid, but when cranking Duty cycle goes to 50-60% but ICP stays at 0, after a bit it climbs to 50PSI or so. This is after 20 seconds of cranking. New Modded 17* pump, swapped IPR's three times, even took one out of my work truck and put one of the "bad" ones in the work truck, and it fired right off.

Cant even think what else it could be, but there is NO ICP pressure being built. Un plug the ICP sensor and it jumps to 2222 or so, still no fire so the ICP sensor is good.

Quit for the weekend. I am tired, frustrated and hot.:pointlaugh: :(
 
#2 ·
any oil coming out of the injector spouts when cranking?
 
#3 ·
no, next weekend I will...:(


Can the rails get air locked? I would not think so but man... what a long day.
 
#5 ·
I'd screw a mechanical guage in the LPOP pressure port on top of the resivour to check pressures. I have also popped off a HPOP line from the head and placed it in an empty gallon milk just to see if I had oil coming out while cranking. That way you can start narrowing down the possiblities.
 
#8 ·
Will a regular psi gauge like you would use to pressure test water or gas pipes work? I need to make one of these before I need it.
 
#7 ·
Loose bolt on the HPOP gear?

Long shot, but HPO rail drain plug(s) missing?
 
#10 ·
are you using a mechanical gauge or the scan gauge? with the icp unpluged you should be seeing 725 at idle, if it ran. i would check the hpop resevoir, sometimes you have to top them off a couple times before the engine will fire. sounds like you still have air in the system. i would think you have been around long enough to diagnose a problem:poke:
 
#11 ·
I have been watching it with AE. It ran for no more then 20 seconds, then died. Yes we checked the HPO res, yes we unplugged the icp sensor, yes we changed IPR's... several times. Its almost as if the HPOP is bad? Saturday I guess I will swap in the 15* pump I have here and give that a try.
 
#12 ·
Will fire off starting fluid, but when cranking Duty cycle goes to 50-60% but ICP stays at 0, after a bit it climbs to 50PSI or so. This is after 20 seconds of cranking. New Modded 17* pump, swapped IPR's three times, even took one out of my work truck and put one of the "bad" ones in the work truck, and it fired right off.

Cant even think what else it could be, but there is NO ICP pressure being built. Un plug the ICP sensor and it jumps to 2222 or so, still no fire so the ICP sensor is good.

Quit for the weekend. I am tired, frustrated and hot.:pointlaugh: :(

Are you seriously that big of a moron??? Who the hell fires a brand new engine on ether?

Get a mechanical gauge and plumb it into the back of your pump. then get a couple of -6 plugs and dead head the pump. that will give you a starting point... before you go through the hassle of removing a 17* pump for a 15*:doh:
 
#13 ·
Ugh... Its a used motor with what I was told 120k on it. So ya, after 45 minutes of cranking, checking, scanning, and changing parts, I unhooked the gpr and shot her with some starting fluid.

Sorry I don't post a minute by minute detailed record of what we did.
 
#15 ·
While not smart, at least you unhooked the GPR.. so I won't jump your ass for that! ;) Things that need to be done have been covered, send me a pm (here or elsewhere) if you run into any issues or have questions.
 
#18 ·
I'll shoot you a PM later on in the week. I will not even be within 3 hours of her for the rest of the week.
 
#16 ·
What about the batteries.. are they good and strong. It took us forever to get Tyler's truck running for the first time. We even had my truck hooked up to it to help give it a jump start. If the battery or alternator is junk then it won't run.

good luck!
 
#21 ·
if you are watching on AE you are only seeing what the sensor is telling you. i would but a mechabical gauge on one of the heads and see what the "actual" hpop is. if you were closer i would let you use my setup.
 
#22 ·
I will try that this weekend, but when you unplug the ICP sensor it goes to the default of 2222, so I "trust" the ICP sensor to a point. I have a few spare's and leaking ones I could swap out too... I think I have a 500 psi gauge left over from something else, would work to see what its doing when cranking...
 
#25 ·
Motor has been sitting in a heated shop for about 2 years. I pulled a head, and the oil pan and all looks good for a 120k motor.
 
#27 ·
I just got my pump back from getting checked out... But I think that is the first thing I will do this weekend.
 
#30 ·
Is it easier to change the pump rather than test it to see if its bad? Just curious? I usually try to make sure the part I'm changin is faulty before I replace it.

Lets see... Part sitting on the shelf... Free... Labor... Free... Time... Free...

Gauge...$30-50... Hose... $20-$30... Hummmmmm

Like I said, I do have a old drive pressure gauge that goes to 500, and a length of hose. I am just not sure I have the fitting to go into the head.
 
#34 ·
Wow... Thanks for the help...
 
#37 ·
I tried to help you, you obviously don't want my opinion on the situation that you are having. So I have no more advise.

If it were my truck, I would block the pump off and check the pressure before removing a pump that happens to work perfectly fine. Maybe its under your valve covers, maybe there is an injector leaking and causing the lack of pressure, who knows, who cares. You are going to replace the pump regardless of what I try to tell you.
 
#39 ·
Joe, Why did you use ether? What good was it going to do for you?

17.5:1 doesnt need ether. not even if its 0 degrees outside...

If you are having a problem getting it running, maybe you should try to troubleshoot the issue, not just throw parts at it like a 16 year old.

If its not making enough oil pressure, there is a reason for it, and all the cans of ether in the world aren't going to fix it. I would start with a mechanical gauge of some sort in the reservior, make sure that there is plenty of supply volume to the pump, then move on to blocking the pump off and see what kind of pressure the pump builds, if the pump pressure is good, then move on to each head one at a time, what pressure do you have there?

You may have a $100 in the gauge, but what is your time worth? and if you ever have a problem again, you will have the tools to Diagnose the problem instead of guessing and throwing parts at it. You spent how long on it already trying to figure it out? I personally don't care to take all freaking day to diagnose something if I can help it.

You can waste your time throwing IPR's and HPOP's on your truck if thats what you want to do, but did you ever think about all the other stuff thats involved besides those few things? Maybe its a cracked pickup tube. Or a bad Pick up tube gasket? A leaking injector oring? LPOP?

All I'm saying is that you should put some thought into it, not just swap parts.
 
#47 ·
17.5:1 doesnt need ether. not even if its 0 degrees outside...
it does if you put in dummy glowplugs:poke::D. but i agree it starts fine down to about 45 anyway. but why does my 21:1 6.9 need ether in 80 degree weather:pointlaugh:LOL
 
#45 ·
you would need a gauge that went to atleast 2000psi. 3000psi would be optimal. considering it takes 4-500psi just to open the injectors. you dont want to exceed your gauges rating. a factory pump in good working order should sustain at least 1600psi for 30 seconds at 3400rpm.
 
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