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E-Fuel

3K views 32 replies 9 participants last post by  nashvillebill 
#1 ·
I have pieced everything together from other good threads for converting mechanical fuel to electric. I am just needing some things cleared up before I tear into it. As far as splicing into the selector valve, is the line I need the one closest to frame rail or is it the outside? And how do I connect from valave to my water/seperator? Is running a 3/8 fuel hose from pump up to adaptor to heads a good idea or do I need to splice onto hardline? And as far as hooking a hose onto a hardline, will a hose clamp be good enough? For the regulator, do I hook up the two return lines from heads into the sides of reg. and return to tank into bottom of reg., then hook up gauge into where there is a plug? And what do I do with the boost connector on other side of reg.? The regulator is a aeromotive 13109. The last thing is wiring the system. I have a 5 prong universal relay, holley 12-810 prssure switch. How do I wire up the system correctly? Answering these questions would be a huge help and greatly apprciated!

Thanks
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
I spliced at the rubber line in front of the selector
I use the stock hard line and a SD pump 3/8 is the feed 5/16 in the return follow the top line from the selector to the hard line (be sure your tanks is about empty or you will be covered in fuel when you pull the line .) pm if i can help you with photos
 

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#4 ·
How exactly do I wire in my relay, pump, and oil pressure switch?

Thanks
 
#5 ·
Im going to work on my fuel system tomorrow. Ill try to draw something up for you but in the mean time...this might help. Its what i bassed mine off of.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/555/555-10557.pdf

This is for a fan...its about the same for a fuel pump...The safety switch gets wired into the power like that goes from pump to relay.
 
#6 ·
One cost saving word of advice: try to figure out the fittings you'll need and mail order them (SummitRacing or elsewhere). I've spent a small fortune at the local parts houses and still not gotten exactly what I wanted. The regulator fittings alone set me back $59 locally, the banjo bolt fittings another $45. Fortunately I think I can get all the fuel filter/pump fittings at the hardware store.
 
#7 ·
Thanks 97-Stroker, that helps a little bit. That would be great if you can let me know how you did yours!

Thanks
 
#8 ·
Well my trucks sitting tonight. I couldnt get it all done. Its going good so far. My parker dealer set me up with all the right fittings. I think for the regulator i spent 10 and the rest like 30 on random adapters and hose barbs. What kind of regulator are you getting?

If its a Aeromotive 13109 with -6 fittings. You will neet 2 -6 to 1/8 NPT...get it from a parker dealer....then you will need 1 -6 to 1/4 NPT for the bottom...then get a 1/4 NPT to 5/16in hose barb so you can connect a fuel line to it....type in Tims Intercooler Install into google.. Its like the first one...scroll down to were he does the electric fuel....he is very descriptive...

Steve
 
#9 ·
I guess some folks are lucky and have good/cheap Parker distributors locally; the supply houses close to me are neither good nor cheap. So far I've spent over $100 on fittings just for the regulator (13109 also) and banjo bolt. (sorry to keep repeating myself but it kinda bums me out).
 
#11 ·
Since my truck is a reg cab, I might need to mount my filters on outside of frame since there is no room anywhere else. The spot I would mount them to get the filters high enough would put them a little above and behind the selector valve. Will this cause any drainback issues or anything else?
 
#13 ·
Here is how I wired up my system:
1)30 amp inline fused power from battery to #30 on relay
2)Ground to #85 on relay
3)#87 on relay to + on fuel pump
4)#86 on relay 7.5 inline fuse wire to C on oil press. switch
5)Spliced in at starter selenoid and ran wire to NC on pressure switch
6)Wired into #5 fuse position 15amp and ran wire to NO on switch
7)#87a on relay was not used
Does this all look correct? I have not fired anything up yet, wanted to check to see if I wired things correctly.

Thanks
 
#14 ·
I refuse to use one of those damn OP switches. Lost a few races using nitrous the chit would not hit because those switches are junk they fail often . My system is wired into the underhood relay forget which one but it will only allow the system to operate with the key forward. I used relays on top of that as well as inline fuses. Thr relay under the hood was used just to trigger the system. Have had no issues with this system.I am going to add a kill switch soon, Oh yeah I run 2 s/d style pumps in the stock s/d holders..
 
#15 ·
I'm not going to use the oil pressure switch or inertia switch either, too much crap to fail IMHO. Last thing I want is an inertia switch triggering as I start to tow my trailer over a set of railroad tracks. And this is diesel fuel, a lot more safe than gasoline.

I'm wiring my system up now, I'm using the red/light green wire from the (long-gone) fuel heater to trigger the relay coil since this is hot when the key is on. (In fact I was--and still am-- really tempted to use the fuel heater wire direct to the pump, the only other things on the 30 amp fuse #22 are the glow plug solenoid relay coil and the PCM relay coil). The pump should draw 6 or 8 amps, maybe 15 amps inrush curent.
 
#17 ·
I initially wasn't going to use an OP switch either, but a buddy at the GM dealership hooked me up with a good one and the spice connector for it, it's off of a 6.5.

I've also got a switch wired into mine so that it can run the pump off the OP switch, on whenever the key is on, or not at all.

Dave
 
#18 ·
I just fired the system up to pressure test it (no leaks! :redspotdance: ) and the pump drew 3.0 amps, at 60 psi. Forget the relay, the pump's gonna go direct to the fuel heater wire...as soon as I eat lunch....
 
#19 ·
Ok so I got my system all done, no leaks and have my pressure set at about 62 psi. This may seem odd but, has anyone noticed a decrease in power? The motor runs smoother, but throttle response and power seems to of went the wrong direction. Before, I could lay some rubber down on my econ setting and cant do it now. It doesnt even seem to smoke like it did before. My water seperator is 10 micron and my post filter is 2 micron. Stock SD replacement pump. One thing I wasnt sure about doing was I hooked up the stock wire harness off the fuel bowl into the back of IPR and at the other end of plug. Left the other 3 single wires unhooked. Is this maybe something causing it?

Thanks
 
#20 ·
Weird....I have just finished mine but haven't taken it out for a ride yet. The 3 unused wires (water in fuel, restricted fuel filter, and heater in your case) shouldn't affect anything.

I assume you disconnected your batteries along the way? Maybe the PCM reset....
 
#21 ·
If the PCM reset then what to do now?
 
#22 ·
I didnt know about hooking up anything to the vacuum part of the regulator so I left it alone, was that the right move?
 
#23 ·
I didn't plug anything into the vacuum port either, neither did Tim in his write-up....Mine seemed to run fine when I took 'er out.

No codes? I wonder if a sensor wire got knocked loose, but I don't know of any that wouldn't throw a code.

Turbo y-to-intake boots tight? Clamp good where the y bolts into the turbo? Boost line plugged in from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor?
 
#24 ·
As far as the PCM, I was just wondering if it was still in the "learning" stage, but I don't know how much a chip will overwrite the PCM's adaptation to driving habits....
 
#25 ·
Guys, you're saying you hooked your pump power to the fuel bowl heater wiring? AFAIK, that wire does not have constant power when the key is on, only when you first fire the truck up and during cold weather.

If the truck feels down on power, you better hook up a fuel pressure gauge that you can see while driving to verify you have pressure under load.

Leave the boost reference port open to atmosphere, we have no need for it. I just ran a short piece of hose off it and down a few inches to try to keep dirt from getting in there, because it will breathe some.

Dave
 
#26 ·
Fuel bowl heater does indeed have power all the time with key on. I have the schematics, confirmed it on the vehicle, and that's how I'm running it. Fuse #22 directly feeds the heater, the PCM relay coil, and the GPR. (The PCM controls the GPR by opening or closing the ground)
 
#27 ·
Here's the schematic. Fuse #22 is Fuse "U"
 

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