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Valve springs.....?

7K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  m j 
#1 ·
Ok I read the sticky and understand all that. But I have also read quite a few other threads on this subject and after some more research it seems I'll be able to get away with a KD valve spring tool as opposed to a 400$ tool. Also I'd like to know how the majority of you guys are doing your springs because I found threads where guys are just pulling the old ones and dropping in the comp 910s no seal change or shims? What's everyone's .02?
 
#2 ·
Curios as well. As to what thickness of shim to use with certain boost numbers, If that's what you base shim thickness off of? I don't know much about shims and such but plan to build my motor this fall and also curious if it is okay to have shimmed valves and 910 springs but still run a stock turbo till funds are available for an s468 set up. I think the two thicknesses are .015 and .030 Not trying to hijack your thread. Just trying to get some information on springs also.
 
#4 ·
a cheapo compressor is best, you have to remove the handle and weld a nut on it to clear the firewall on the driver side
 
#5 ·
You need to measure each valve height with a spring micrometer. Do NOT guess on what shim you need by what others say.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
#6 ·
ok thanks guess so my install height with the 910s needs to be 1.78? running 250/100 injectors and s366. Also I can save the factory valve stem seals right? they are 2-3 weeks out everywhere and I was only able to borrow the tool for a couple days.
 
#7 ·
Do it right and get new seals. Did you try Summit Racing, part # FEL-SS72893? The valve seal needs to be figured into the installed height.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
#8 ·
id love the do it right approach but truck is my daily and is down cause the mech pump failed so while I have it apart im doing it all. I borrowed the tool and summit racing is 2 weeks out for the seals ill keep scrambling to see if I can get some. I can get them from amazon but even then not till mid next week and this tool belongs to a ford dealer so I have to get it back soon
 
#11 ·
Yea but if the rubber tears on removal, what would you do if you don't have the seals on hand????

Did you try E-bay or worst case Int'l or Ford?

How many 7.3 valve springs do you think the dealer is going to change???

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
#12 ·
I was able to locate some in Portland after calling every napa and machine shop in the area they will be here Monday morning so Ill have to hope the dealer I borrowed the tool from doesn't throw a hissy fit. FYI international gets 9.86 a piece for them suckers I called them to but they wouldn't be here till wed. Like I said I tried just about everything till I located a set through a machine shop. Thanks for suggestions guys.
 
#13 ·
want to jump in here for question on valve springs. I see the ones at riff diesel 910-16 and was wondering

1. why change them out to the higher spring rate.

2. would this a good thing to do if using the EBPV moded as exhaust brake.

3. how hard is the process..i saw a video where the guy has something that screws to the head to push springs down to allow for retainer release.
 
#14 ·
You need high pressure when you run higher boost aka: valve float. I'm on my Android and don't have patience to do the calculations for spring pressures.

Not a fan of using the EBPV as an exhaust brake due to the hydraulic lifters in the 7.3. An exhaust brake prevents the exhaust valve from opening which a lot of strain on the valve train unless the motor was designed for exhaust brake use ie: solid lifters, HD pushrods and rockers.

Process is not hard just time consuming. You need to take your time and measure, measure, measure.

There're a few different tools to release the keepers. The OTC one was meant/designed for these motors.

The 910-16 is Comp Cams part #.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
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