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Having issues getting truck running correctly...need help

7K views 97 replies 26 participants last post by  joediesle 
#1 ·
Well i just put some big hybrids and the gen 3 on my truck and im having some problems. It doesnt seem to idle well at all. I can feel and hear and least one dead miss. Also has P1316 only at idle. The check engine light comes on and off. I pulled both valve covers expecting to find some clips off, but everything is connected. All the other wiring seems in tact as well. I have only put on about 10 miles so far and i developed an oil leak at the hpop reseviour. Didnt tighten the gen3 enough, gasket swelled. So i'll need a new one.

I did a buzz test and can hear 8 clean, crisp buzzes, but it will come back with a p1275 (#5 high to low side open) but i dont know whether to believe it or not because i hear all 8 injectors buzz fine. There is one long buzz in the beginning of the test and then 8 short ones. All are crisp.

Thats not my biggest concern though. Its the running condition. Dave thinks that it will clear up with miles but i dont know. I want to believe him, but the check engine light keeps telling me different. It seems to drive OK off of idle, has decent power on the hot street setting (all i ran it on, is very smokey but i expected that) but just idles like crap with at least one dead miss with a 1316. Check engine light comes and goes while driving, seemed to be less often after being driven more, but always comes back on steady at idle.

Getting quite discouraged and frustrated...i'm about ready to give up. This thing has been fighting me the whole way. :( :(
 
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#5 ·
What about those IDM codes? The dead miss @ idle? You think driving will change that?

I have to fix the leak first it was POURING out of that seal. I probably lost 2 quarts.

I also have to add, for some reason, my scangauge says my battery voltage is 10.6-10.7 volts KOEO and KOER, but my factory gauge says its good and i have no battery light on :confused:

The reason i am so frustrated because this thing has been fighting me tooth and nail from the beginning. I also have done injector swaps and it has ran much better, without SES lights right after the swap than this swap.

They are swamps injectors.
 
#8 ·
Factory. Truck ran fine with the last set of injectors..

The only code it would come up with on a buzz test is P1275...High to low side open #5. I heard all 8 injectors buzz though...thats whats got me confused. If it buzzes, i dont see why it would set that code, mostly only at idle...

And with the engine running it would throw a P1316..Injector circuit/IDM codes detected.
 
#10 ·
Swap the solenoid between that injector and it's nieghbor and see if the code follows.

It took probably close to 100 miles to get the air out of my HPO system after installing my 275's. Most of that is prolly because I've only got a 15* to push them.

Get the oil leak fixed and the truck fired up and hold it at 2k rpm for 2 minutes or so, that usually clears most all the air out before I even drive it.

Dave
 
#11 ·
I dont have the tool for the solenoid. It looks like a 6 point slotted type socket. Different from a torx bit or allen, etc.

I dont have a spare IDM laying around either...anyone have one?? :poke::doh:

I honestly dont think this is air related but i'll try it.

Vozar, did your truck with that IDM run like poo at idle also?

Also, since my scangauge is seeing 10.7 volts, does that mean my PCM is seeing that also??? Since it reads off of OBD2 data? Or is something else fubar somewhere?
 
#12 ·
I dont have the tool for the solenoid. It looks like a 6 point slotted type socket. Different from a torx bit or allen, etc.

I dont have a spare IDM laying around either...anyone have one?? :poke::doh:

I honestly dont think this is air related but i'll try it.
Solenoid should be a t-15.


We do check all the solenoids and flow them before they leave the shop, a solenoid issue should show up during flowing...


It is partially air related and it will take more driving especially with a gen 3... Get that leak fixed...
 
#13 ·
Dave said as long as the injectors are plugged in he is sure they are working...

They were just recently gone through and flowed. I'll try the T-15 but it looks different.

I still dont get why it would "buzz" but still throw a code for an open circuit...:shrug: thats telling me two of the exact opposite things.
 
#15 ·
The torx bit will work, just push down and go slow until it breaks loose.

I had a truck come in recently that ran like crap, but passed the buzz test just fine. Nothing wrong with the UVCH's to see by eye, but swapping them out fixed it. Try swapping those side to side, and check the connector on the inside for cracking and splitting.

I can't be of help with the scangauge, but you could check the battery voltage with a multimeter.

Dave
 
#16 ·
Well i just put some big hybrids and the gen 3 on my truck and im having some problems. It doesnt seem to idle well at all. I can feel and hear and least one dead miss.
Does the truck smooth out when you touch the pedal?

Also has P1316 only at idle. The check engine light comes on and off. I pulled both valve covers expecting to find some clips off, but everything is connected. All the other wiring seems in tact as well. I have only put on about 10 miles so far and i developed an oil leak at the hpop reseviour. Didnt tighten the gen3 enough, gasket swelled. So i'll need a new one.
swelled gasket?

what gasket did you use...hopefully NOT the one with the metal screen in it, unless your truck CAME with one. If you installed a metal/screen gasket on a front cover that does not need one, then you most likely cracked the front cover.

I did a buzz test and can hear 8 clean, crisp buzzes, but it will come back with a p1275 (#5 high to low side open) but i dont know whether to believe it or not because i hear all 8 injectors buzz fine. There is one long buzz in the beginning of the test and then 8 short ones. All are crisp.
you may have an IDM problem, or a wiring problem. What issue were you having that prompted you to order a valve cover gasket?

Thats not my biggest concern though. Its the running condition. Dave thinks that it will clear up with miles but i dont know. I want to believe him, but the check engine light keeps telling me different. It seems to drive OK off of idle, has decent power on the hot street setting (all i ran it on, is very smokey but i expected that) but just idles like crap with at least one dead miss with a 1316. Check engine light comes and goes while driving, seemed to be less often after being driven more, but always comes back on steady at idle.

Getting quite discouraged and frustrated...i'm about ready to give up. This thing has been fighting me the whole way. :( :(
didn't you mention in your PM that you only have 10.? volts to the PCM.

I suggest:

1. fix the oil leak
2. fix the voltage issue
3. determine what is causing the intermittent SES light, with a scan tool.

please call me first thing in the morning, and if I need to overnight you anything, I'll do it.

take care~

Dave
 
#18 ·
Does the truck smooth out when you touch the pedal?



swelled gasket?

what gasket did you use...hopefully NOT the one with the metal screen in it, unless your truck CAME with one. If you installed a metal/screen gasket on a front cover that does not need one, then you most likely cracked the front cover.



you may have an IDM problem, or a wiring problem. What issue were you having that prompted you to order a valve cover gasket?



didn't you mention in your PM that you only have 10.? volts to the PCM.

I suggest:

1. fix the oil leak
2. fix the voltage issue
3. determine what is causing the intermittent SES light, with a scan tool.

please call me first thing in the morning, and if I need to overnight you anything, I'll do it.

take care~

Dave

Might need to overnight him a billet front cover.. :(
 
#22 ·
If you are getting a high side to low side code, you have an electrical issue. as you know it could be anything from the solinoid to the idm. the easiest thing to try to start with, is pull the valve cover gaskets and uvc harness and switch sides, then see if the code changes.

I have found that when I have had a day where nothing goes right it is time to just say F#### it and sit back and have a few beers. go back to work on it tomorrow, after you have cooled down, and things will probably go better.


on a side note my truck idles just as smooth or smother as it ever has with those injectors in it. it isn't going to idle like splits but still not bad
 
#23 ·
It idles bad...definitely at least one miss. It does smooth out when on the throttle though.

The truck did come with a metal screen gasket from the factory, but i used the one i got from dave with the gen 3. The back 2 bolts on the res. werent even finger tight...i just didnt tighten them enough i guess, i didnt check them again after running it. I'll take a closer look but i looked yesterday for cracking and didnt notice anything. I am going to get a new gasket from ford today and see what happens.

I'm going to pull that pass side valve cover again tonight and take a look at the wiring better. Nothing was obvious, so i dont know. I'm still a little confused why it would buzz but still throw the code...

If the front cover is f*cked them i'm selling everything :mad: I dont have the patience or energy or time to fix that.
 
#24 ·
If the front cover is f*cked them i'm selling everything :mad: I dont have the patience or energy or time to fix that.

:eek: say it isn't so!

If if passes a buzz test then the injectors are hooked up electrically.

Have you tried a contribution test?

Leave a glow plug out?

Still have you old injectors to try?
 
#25 ·
Read through this http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27552

If your cover has a channel for the gasket to be "cradled" in then you need to use a gasket with out the screen. If the area where the screen sets in on the front cover is machined differently than the rest of the cover then you need to use the gasket with the screen.

If you have had a gasket with a screen in it on a cover that is not designed for it then the front cover is probably cracked at the bolt hole on the drivers side.
 
#27 ·
The factory had a gasket w/ a screen in there. It was not leaking. I used a gasket without the screen (the one that dave gave me). I did a contribution test and #6 and #8 failed, but that was shortly after i got it started with no miles on it. I'm guessing fuel/oil hadnt got there yet. Nothing about #5 in the contribution test. I didnt pull any GP's out.
 
#31 ·
The factory had a gasket w/ a screen in there. It was not leaking. I used a gasket without the screen (the one that dave gave me). I did a contribution test and #6 and #8 failed, but that was shortly after i got it started with no miles on it. I'm guessing fuel/oil hadnt got there yet. Nothing about #5 in the contribution test. I didnt pull any GP's out.
ok...

Did you get all of the injectors seated down into the injector cups properly?...and double check the hold down bolts? A set of injectors that large is not going to idle as smoothly as a set of stock injectors, but you should not have a dead miss. Those injectors were flowtested atleast 5000 shots, so I have no reservations that the injectors were working properly when they left the shop.

There is always an off chance that a small piece of debris may get inside one of the injectors, or an injector cup, etc...as you are swapping from the old set to the new set...if a piece of foreign material were to get in the fuel rail, injector, etc...it may work it's way through the injector, or it may not. But running a contribution test on a truck with zero miles after an injector swap is never, never going to pass, as there is just too much air in the fuel & HPOil system for the injectors to even have a chance at flowing evenly. If you get your leak, and possible voltage issue resolved, and get atleast 20 miles on it, and still have a dead miss while driving, thenlet me know and I'll get you a replacement out asap.

I send the gasket w/o the screen to prevent guys from cracking their front cover....so you'll be safe to get one with the metal screen, or you may be able to degrease/brakeclean the front cover/gasket sealing area and use a little silicone to hold the rubber gasket in place as you reinstall the Gen3 reservoir.

I'm going to send you an IDM to try which may alleviate the high to low side open code...and it may improve the idle quality with those large injectors.

let me know ehat you find on the oil leak and voltage issue~

take care~

Dave
 
#33 ·
Thats what i'm going to try today, some silicone and brake cleaner.

As far as getting the injectors in...if they werent seated completely it'd be smoking out the tail pipe. Its clean as a whistle at idle. i double checked the hold down bolts and they are tight. I used a rubber mallet to put them in. Last time on the last set i had one come up a little bit, it was smoking like hell and making all kinds of noises.

Now, seeing if that #5 wasnt working, wouldnt that throw a contribution code for that cylinder during the test as well?? I realize some idle quality will be lost with these but it still feels like a miss. My std hybrids idled very well with your tuning, as good as stock i'd say. Once i get it running i'll see if there is anyway i can get a video, but its definitely not a steady exhaust stream out the exhaust. There is definitely a time where there is nothing coming out for a quick second.

Also the dead miss wasnt so much driving, it was at idle. No "dead" miss while on the throttle.

I am getting a UVCH and gasket anyway to put in and see what happens. I appreciate the IDM dave, i'll try it and let you now how it is or if this harness solves my issues. Or since i hear it buzzing do you think i should even bother trying to pull that V/C off again?

As far as the voltage problem...i'm not sure where to start. I may have messed up the wiring for the GPR causing the IAH relay to be "activated" even though it isnt there. It still throws me for a loop though because the truck cranks fine.

Does anyone have the color codes/schematic for this GPR? How many wires to each and what terminal? It did throw a low power condition once in the beginning, but has not done it since.
 
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