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Fitment of 40" tires

60K views 71 replies 20 participants last post by  PHPDiesel 
#1 ·
I currently have 35's under my truck and want to lift the truck enough to comfortably fit 40's, what all do I need, and what "Inch" of lift will I be looking at?
 
#3 ·
A guy around here had 40's, iirc he started with a 6" lift and added a few leaves till he got enough room to run 40's. Or you can get a custom set of springs made.
 
#4 ·
you could probably get 9 or more out of a 6" lift springs + RSK in the front and blocks in the back.

Considering my 4" on a TTB clears 35's, Id say you could squeeze 40's with 9 or 10.
 
#5 ·
are cutout fender flares an option? that'll get you big tires with minimal lift. I think bushwacker makes them. That's what I want to do when I get my dad's old '97 CCLB when he upgrades here in the next couple months, only difference is I'm going for 46" tires. reverse shackle will be on my list. I think it alone gives about 3.5".
 
#6 ·
well i know i can get Sky's RSk 5" and their Flip shackle for a good 4.5" along with my already 2" block in the rear. I was wondering about how to position the angle of the driveshaft and all, im wondering if its something a fella can just do himself with obvious methods or if some fancy tool needs to be brought in by a pro.
The pic in my avatar is a decent photo of the truck and clearance. What would be the benefit of goin with a 40" over a 38" other than a higher center of gravity?
Also i see alot of tires that are 15.5" wide, could I fit those on my 16x8's, and if not what are ya'lls feelings on sticking them on my weld 16.5x10's?
 
#7 ·
you definately want to go with a wider rim to fit 40's.... and you definately dont want a 16.5.... as for how much lift you need to "fit" a 40 on superduty you need a 12" to "fit" a 40... but my idea of fitting a tire is no rubbing at all... I am at 11" on my superduty running a 22x11 wheel and a 40x15.50r22 toyo and i rub a little... a 40 on that small of a rim will look funny, you need to step up to at least an 18 or a 20 to have it look right... that much rubber will have a lot of flex and drive like crap on the road and tow even worse....
 
#9 ·
Its the 18s and 20s that look funny !! Guess I an old school I liked it back in the day WHEN I had a my chevy short bed on 38s but on 15" rims.

You guys nowa days must like the wagon wheel look . :poke: :D
 
#8 ·
I'm running a 4" lift w/ reverse shackle from ORU up front and a 6" block and an add-a-leaf in the rear. I have good clearance with 38.5x14.50 on 20x10 KMC's. Also, I put on 2" wheel spacers front and rear so they wouldn't rub on my front leaf springs. It gave the truck a nice wider stance too.
 
#10 ·
You should plan on 9-10" of lift, new DS's, crosover steering with new longer track bar etc. I would use Icon front 6" springs 3" RS kit and Icon 5" rears with a 4" block, Bilsteins etc for the best ride quality.

Other way is to start over and get SD '05-09 axles and front suspension then you could use available Suspension kits and have a much better ride quality and be able to stop!

I developed the RS-SD mod and have installed '08 axles and suspension on my '97. if I can help with parts-info let me know.

Cary
 
#14 ·
a 15" rim? with a 38" ? I know to each his own, but that much rubber? geez... and like I said it would ride like crap from all the flex in the tires... thats why the big rim and the big tire... there is less sidewall flex so they ride, handle, and tow better... and granted they look better, but that is My Opinion and not yours...
 
#16 ·
Yeah your right man a 14.50" wide tire on a 15" wide wheel man it drove like chit .. Clueless :doh: I guess if you arn't smart enough to run that much rubber at proper inflation then yeah it will mush around . Guess thats a sign of the times . I drove that truck all over not to mention the mudding and other stupid crap that was done. Looking back thru the pics and talking to my step bro. the truck had 16 " rims anyway . I forgoy about the 1 ton running gear that was swaped under it :doh: . Only truck with taller rubber that I have had that drove like crap was my F 250 .
 
#15 ·
what would be my benefit on going from a 38" to a 40"?
I go into the backwoods enough for me to justify the use of a 40"er but im wondering if lifting the truck to 10" will completely kill my cornering at decent speeds. I can however see how it would improve my fuel mileage, seeing as how I wont be whipping the ass end of my truck round corners and nascaring my way to get a bite to eat across town.
 
#19 ·
I have some pictures somewhere of what 12" (actual lift) and 44" Ground Hawgs (actually 41" tall) look like but I don't have them on my work computer. Until then, here is what 20" of actual lift and 44" Hawgs (remember, only 41" tall) look like.





On the other hand, 20" of lift will clear 49" Iroks too.....as long as you have wheel spacers so that you can turn without rubbing the springs.

 
#21 ·

Here's my really old body style with 40's and 20's. I really like how proportional they look. I've never caught on to the big wheel craze though. Before these tires I had 22's and 37's which I didn't like nearly as much. The lack of sidewall does hurt the ride quality, and the tires don't last as long. I think the lift is about 10" with the 40's.

Here's the 22's and 37's.
 
#23 ·
you could fit 40s with 8 inches, i run 38s with 6 inches and i could get 40s on if i spaced/ trimed the front bumper a bit

but i really like OBSWIZ's way, newer axles and coil/radius arms...definately the way to go...wonder how much it would cost...???
 
#25 ·
Major cost is the SD axles..and where you live. I got my '08's for the price I sold my D60:evil
Few custom parts needed nothing major but allow about $1500+-..still working on a kit price, it will include Bilsteins, SS brake lines, emergency brake lines and track bar-brackets..

You want the axles, radius arm brackets, coil buckets, steering parts. Then other parts would be dependent on what size lift you want...many different options.

Sorry for the hyjack..any info please just PM me.
 
#24 ·
Here is mine info in sig.
 
#31 ·
those are some sick trucks, i especially like the teal obs ford owned by cracker. Im not sure how the front will work out, I will probably use a 5" RSK with my stock/mod springs which have 2-3" of lift brought about by extra leaves. In the rear ill have a flatbed before the lift gets done, so I wont have to worry about rubbing on the fenders. I was thinking of using a 4.5" flip shackle kit for the rear, plus a 2" block and my extra leaved springs. I still have to talk to a local spring company, cause think I will be able to get extra leaves shoved in my stock springs and get more lift from them.
 
#33 ·
WOW what a beauty!
 
#34 ·
all the ground hawgs im seeing, are they the radials or the bias ply? which do ya'll prefer?
Also, im running 4.10 gears, should I be fine after the lift and placement of 40's?
 
#35 ·
If I was going to do huge tires I would do gumbo monster mudders if they still made them. Hawgs are my sec. choice they work well in the chit an wear decent .I am sure I will get flamed for my choice but oh well I know what I like .
 
#36 ·
also, since Im going from 35's to 38-40's how will I correct my speed sensor?
 
#37 ·
9" Lift (Springs and Add-Leaf in Front) on 38.5" Boggers (16.5" wheels, for reference).



It rubs at full steer, but not too badly.
 
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