I have a buddy who is an ARP dealer and can get me those for considerably less than the H11's. So my question is are the H11's significantly better, and at what point will I see a difference.
The H11's are a bit more forgiving on torque. Follow ARP's torque guidelines and you will be happy with ARP's. You can even bump the final torque to 130ft lbs and be ok..
I did some research on the "guidelines" & asked a bunch of diffrent people. Just about everyone seemed to have a diffrent way of doing it. For the most part all ways seemed to work though.
the way i was told the biggest noticable difference is in stretching, while arp are good for 3(or somethign like that), and the h11's are good a lot longer,
I just installed ARP's with new stock gaskets and brought the final torque to 135 ft lbs. ARP says go to 125, some on here say go to 140... I decided on 135 lol
I just installed ARP's with new stock gaskets and brought the final torque to 135 ft lbs. ARP says go to 125, so on here say go to 140... I decided on 135 lol
they should be good for more than 3 times of use. i mean you may want to measure them to make you feel better if you ever have to take them back out. really they shouldnt stretch to the point of failure. but they can
I agree. There is many different ways to skin this cat (HAH). I just go my personal experience and f-up's. There is no reason for someone to make my mistakes if I can help it.
Inspect ALL studs and washers/nuts for defects. Pull the 8 shortest bolts and set to the side. These go under the injector hold downs (towards the top of the head).
Pull the valve train, glow plugs and injectors.
Start from the center and pull 1 head bolt.
Apply supplied moly to the stud threads.
Tighten bolt into the block with allen socket (5mm or 6mm). Hand tight only.
Install washer (there may be a lip on the washer, pay attention and follow what the install sheet says) and nut.
Now, ARP states that you should torque to 125ft pounds, loosen and re-torque 3 times. I torque to 125ft lbs, loosen, 125ft lbs, loosen, and a final 130ft lbs.
Work from the center moving outward, switching from front to rear as you go. When you are done, install the valve train and injectors. Remove oil/fuel from cylinders. Reinstall glow plugs and hook up everything back up. Cycle the key 8-9 times for 30 seconds each to fill the heads back up with fuel and start trying to get the engine to fire. Once running, idle for 10 minutes then shut it down.
Start over. Pull everything down and torque to 130-135ft lbs. You shouldn't have any head gasket issues at this point. Injector cups is a different story! :doh:
New heads/head gaskets?
Pretty much the same except I run the engine longer for the heat cycle. If you don't have coolant in the block, idle for 3-5 min only. The oil temps hit a max of 210* when I did it. If you have coolant flowing, idle for 30 min.
I may have over looked something. It's still early for me. :doh: I'll add info later if I remember anything.
I thought you just pulled 1 at a time to replace stockers???
Question..what if you want to remove a set to transfer to a different motor..can the orginal bolts be put back..or is this going to cause big problems as the tq difference etc will cause a head gasket failer soon afterwards?
Because with the A1's you have to grid the damn injector hold down to be able to reinstall the injectors once the studs are installed. All the A1's are similar in length to the long ARP's.
The ARP's just make the installation easier and then you don't have to grind on anything to be able to fit them.
One set is based off of standard imperical measurements and one set is based off of standard metric measurements. So the metric studs would come in 5mm increments, while the imperical studs come in 1/4" increments.
Now thats just a WAG trying to get a $50 off coupon.
My guess:
ARP used a used stock headbolt for the initial length. As said before, stock bolts stretch.
Then they found out that they interfere with the injector hold down, so only the studs that go under the injectors are cut shorter.
How about because thats the way whoever speced them first did it to avoid clearance issue with injector hold downs.
Oh and BTW - It doesn't matter whos studs I use on my engine builds, my injector hold downs need clearanced. And no there is not any junk in the threaded holes in my blocks
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