I just bought a 02 f250 2 wheel drive. It has 526,000 miles. It had the injector cups and o rings, oil cooler and hpop gaskets. I was told it ran fine before the gasket were changed now it wont rev up. I just put in a new throttle pedal in and it still won't rev. I've checked fuse 45 it was good. The instrument panel works.#I was able to get codes they are all continuious memory they are p0122 throttle pedal a circuit low p0113 intake air temp 1 curcuit high (probably because it is still in the air box that's in the cab) and p0603 powertrain control module kam error. It also will only idle for about one to two minutes then it will die like it ran out of fuel. Any ideas what I should do next?
I remember the nut was there but when I was checking connections I could rock the solenoid side to side in the sleeve. I found out it stalling from the water drain being partially open and it well would die when my code reader would connect to it
The nut is still on the ipr and it is snug and when I unplug the icp it is full of oil and it continues to not rev up. There is oil in the valley but I'm not sure if it is from when they pulled the hpop or if the gasket is leaking I'm also thinking they might have messed something up when they changed the gasket. Is there any way to check if they did? I felt around the hpop as best I could and didn't feel any oil. Are the lines supposed to be able to move a little at the fittings?
You were right to consider the pedal first. The pedal has two components. The variable resistor for position, and the home switch to set zero each time the pedal returns to rest. I have found that it is the home switch that has caused me the no rev condition three separate times in two vehicles (2000 excursion & 2000 F350). I would verify that the new home switch is closing, and that the circuit is closed through the switch back to the closest harness point when the pedal is at rest. It could be both a bad new pedal, or a broken wire/connector. Doing that would completely eliminate the home switch as a possibility.
I have no continuity between any of the pins on both the old throttle pedal and the new one I did find a pin out for the pig tail but I'm not sure which pins should have continuity between them. I've also got the newer pedal with the ten wire plug with only 5 wire
If I check voltage between the top two terminals I have 12 volts with the pedal out and it drops to 0 when pushed in so I think the idle switch is working properly
Possibly also check to make sure the hpop has enough oil in it. It should only be about an inch away from the opening. They also could have gotten a lot of air in the hpo system when the changes the gaskets
The port in on top its an alan head bolt on the drivers side under the powerstroke cover. I'm not sure how to purge the hpo system other than just running it
if the connectors on the hpop got pulled to replace orings, if the spring and the little end piece are not in there it will make the truck have sevre lack of power
The reservoir was full and I dont think it's a lack of power it's a lack of throttle response I will be getting a scangauge ii on Friday and I will see what it says as the check engine light is on and I should be able to moniter pressures too
Well I found the problem there were two wires rubbed through under the hood and one was broken. But now I have another problem and I'm not sure where to post it. My abs light is on and my speedometer reads roughly half as fast as I'm actually going
The speedometer is a wheel speed sensor I believe and the abs thing would probably be the abs sensor check the wires going to them see if they are doing the same as the ones under the hood
Is it possible it's the same sensor causing both? And I'm thinking the sensor may be bad seeing as the truck has like 526,000 miles assuming the odometer is right
My guess is if the abs is going off then the hub bearings are starting to sheer and the metal shavings are grounding out the abs sensor
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