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Need an Electronics Expert's Help with 6.0 Turbo Install

1K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  73LSTROKER 
#1 ·
I am working on installing the 6.0 turbo onto my 96. I've finished plumbing and I'm now trying to wire it. The controller that I'm using supplies a 6volt signal and I need a 12volt signal to run the solenoid on the turbo.

Questions:
1. What relay do I need to turn a 6volts signal into a 12volt signal? [it needs to be fast (ie 10th of a second, if possible)]
2. The controller currently runs off of 4 AA batteries- could you suggest what resistor I should use to wire it into the 12volt system on my truck?

Links to digikey or radio shack would be extremely helpful.
Sorry for asking such a dumb question, I just want to get the right part.

Thanks,
STROKER
 
#4 ·
For a power supply to your controller, get a 12DC to 6VDC regulator. For output, have the controller fire a relay that lets 12VDC go through it.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions! The voltage regulator shouldn't be hard to find. mattr66 I like your idea of using a mosfet but, I know very little about electronics. Which mosfet do I need? digikey list hundreds.

Thanks
 
#10 ·
I have NO education in electronics so please bear with me.
The controller I'm using has two output wires. one is +6VDC and the other is -6VDC. They both go on and off at the same time. I can program the signal as short as 1/10 of a second. The controller was intended for use with small robotics projects.

I love overkill! So how do I wire the International Rectifier? From left to right what would I wire the pins to?


You've all been great,
Josh
 
#11 ·
I have NO education in electronics so please bear with me.
The controller I'm using has two output wires. one is +6VDC and the other is -6VDC. They both go on and off at the same time. I can program the signal as short as 1/10 of a second. The controller was intended for use with small robotics projects.

I love overkill! So how do I wire the International Rectifier? From left to right what would I wire the pins to?
You've all been great,
Josh
If one side of the wire is +6 and the other is -6 then you have a 12v circuit already.....
 
#12 ·
Sorry! Together they equal 6V. I didn't know you could add them up like that.
 
#18 ·
Sorry everyone, I will do a detailed write-up after I've had it working for a few weeks and I'm sure it will function properly.

Let me tell you, cowboy_dan is the MAN!!! If you have any electrical questions he is brilliant! After about 30 seconds of talking to him my poor brain was sore from the shear amount of knowledge being thrown at it.

Thanks Dan and Matt
Josh

PS. does this look right Dan?
 
#19 ·
Not quite.
The 10k ohm resistor is a pull-down resistor. It needs to be between the gate and the emitter, not the gate and collector.

I'm assuming that you're 'idle mode' input is the IVS (Idle Validation Switch)?

Oh, and just for reference, the MAP (stock 'boost' sensor) is a frequency output on the OBS. So, you'll need either a separate 5v powered sensor with an analog output (ISSPRO makes some good ones), or a frequency-to-voltage converter such as the LM2907.

Otherwise it looks good.
 
#20 ·
Not quite.
The 10k ohm resistor is a pull-down resistor. It needs to be between the gate and the emitter, not the gate and collector.
Ok, now I see its purpose. I will get that changed.
I'm assuming that you're 'idle mode' input is the IVS (Idle Validation Switch)?
No, its mainly for fun. it will be a three way switch with different idle modes(maximum whistle[vanes narrowed down], maximum boost at idle [daily driving], rumble [vanes wide open].
Oh, and just for reference, the MAP (stock 'boost' sensor) is a frequency output on the OBS. So, you'll need either a separate 5v powered sensor with an analog output (ISSPRO makes some good ones), or a frequency-to-voltage converter such as the LM2907.

Thanks, I'm using two ford EBP sensors from a 6.0 but they are the same as a 7.3- 0-40psi 5 Volt

Otherwise it looks good.


Thanks Dan
 
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