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12v conversion work has begun.

18K views 130 replies 32 participants last post by  mech2161 
#1 ·
The 7.3 is out and most parts have been sold. When I started this project I had no prior experience with the Cummins. To be honest I didn't know which way to turn. I met Carson and Jason at a pull at The Buck in May. Jason was very helpful, he gave me ideas on ways to make the little annoying things work. Sorry to say it but after talking to them and realizing it wasn't that hard I made the decision to switch.

I'm not sure when this project went from a DD street puller to, well mainly a puller. I guess when you have friends that pull Cummins and they start handing you parts it's tough to say no. I spent an hour on the phone with Garrett from Pure Diesel Power. He took the time to answer every question I had, even after closing.

The 12v parts are being ordered, some are here.

Adapter plate and motor mounts, Thanks to Carson Stauffer Diesel.
Throttle pedal and cable new from Ford.
SBC fuel pump block off plate.
Southbend is taking care of the clutch.
Full cut delivery valves and holders.
5k GSK
5X22 injectors
o-ringed, ported and polished head
60# valve springs
T4 PDI exhaust manifold
adjustable pump gear
Billet front cover

Garrett at Pure Diesel Power is supplying the new Custom Ground MAXSPOOL 2.5 Cam, Billet Retainers & Valve Spring Keepers, Commonrail Lifters/Tappets and bolt-in Rear Freeze Plug.

The bottom end will stay stock untill the end of the season. I will be using the 2.6 S400 and Fuelab pump from the PSD.
 
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#2 ·
Kevin

Welcome To Dark Side:rockwoot:
 
#3 ·
Good luck, i have just got my motor for my swap. now i need to amass the rest of the parts. Where did u get your sbc fuel block off plate from?
 
#7 ·
I found the right plate from NAPA. It's a Balkamp part and the number is 7354369.
 
#4 ·
I got it from Advance. They only had the full 4 hole plate. It will work but I'm still looking for the 2 hole plate.
 
#5 ·
Glad to hear you've got things underway. I'm excited to see the progress of this thing. Garrett has always taken very good care of me as well.
 
#6 ·
Awesome I am looking forward to seeing the progress here. I am thinking about a 12v for my little race truck. Keep us posted.
 
#8 ·
Chit happens when you least expect it. I got the front cover off and it was spotless. Pulled the head to find a damaged piston. This truck was wrecked. From what I can tell they must have started this truck from time to time when it sat in the barn. Carbon built up and collected against the head behind the exhaust valve. It was bad enough to roll the top edge of the piston about a half inch long. Only in #3 cylinder. The stuff flaked off the head with little effort.
Looks like it needs one piston so I think I'm going to pull them all and have them fly cut.
 
#13 ·
Here's a run down of the build. At least what I remember.

o-ringed and mild port head
#60 valve springs
hardened retainers and locks
head studs
5X16 injectors
Max Spool 2.5 cam
new tappets
adjustable pump gear
full cut dv's and modded holders
zero fule plate
5K GSK
Fuelab pump
65mm or 70mm S400
PDI T4 exhaust manifold
bolt in rear freeze plug w/bypass
SB clutch
 
#23 ·
Here's a run down of the build. At least what I remember.

o-ringed and mild port head
#60 valve springs
hardened retainers and locks optional
head studs
5X16 injectors 5X14
Max Spool 2.5 cam stock
new tappets
adjustable pump gear optional
full cut dv's 181's and modded holders optional
zero fuel plate probably a 100
5K GSK
Fuelab pump
65mm or 70mm S400 there are smaller chargers that will work better on the street
PDI T4 exhaust manifold optional, stock would work
bolt in rear freeze plug w/bypass
SB clutch
There are some suggestions to save a few bucks and maybe more streetable.
 
#14 ·
I don't know a whole lot about the fueling requirements of the 12V, but will the stock P-pump be enough for the power level you're going for? I see the modded parts on your list, but don't have any idea at what point the limits of some parts in the stock pump are reached.
 
#15 ·
Yeh it will be enough. From some of the conversations I've had it's possible to make 800+ with a 215 pump.
 
#16 ·
how much money are we talking on average to put a 12 valve in place of a stroke? not building a high horse puller, just to take 12v out of a dodge and put it in a ford?
 
#17 ·
There is no reason you couldn't do the swap for a 12v for $2500 or less being a manual truck. This doesn't include the price of the donor engine or any modifications to it.
 
#18 ·
Yeah, I think I figured right around there, not counting the motor. Just for the stuff that has to be fabbed, motor mounts, and a few other little things. But I planned on keeping the Dodge Trans (see no 800 adapter plate).
 
#21 ·
I have a few pics at the shop. I'll try to get them posted up tomorrow. I got the piston and rod bearings in today. The Southbend clutch shipped yesterday. The head is still at the machine shop. I had to make some last minute changes to it. The cam is being sent back for a custom grind. All I can say about it is, 500 lift. Pump work is coming along. Waiting on a fuel plate. I found them cheap, not worth trying to grind my own.
I wanted an aftermarket tach but not a big azz 5" mounted on the dash. I bought a digital tube style Autometer with shift light and memory play back. I also got a mag pickup thinking it would trigger it, not. I called Summit and they had no idea, call Autometer. What a bunch of flippin idiots, it will not work for a diesel. After I cooled off it took me about five minutes to figure it out on my own. Mag pickup to a four terminal GM ign module to the tach.
 
#25 ·
Very nice!
I hope your gonna change out the Dodge cover on top the motor for the Cummins one.
 
#29 ·
Replacing the fuel plate, doing mods to the AFC foot and adjusting the governer lever.
 
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