I need new ball joints and would like to know if one ball joint is better than another. I've herd what a pain they are to change and want to make sure
i get a good set. My truck is a PSD 4x4 99 350.
Also need new barrings on drivers side if anybody has anything to offer about that/ opcorn:
Moog ball joints. Find some 90 degree low profile zerk fittings for the uppers.
As far as bearings, if you have the $$$$ and don't mind manual hubs the Dyna-Trac or Solid Axle kits are the way to go. If you have auto hubs and want to keep them then replace with stock unit bearings.
With your truck being a '99 be sure of the build date when ordering your parts and then compare them against what is on the truck before installation. Even with my 2000 I have had issues with chassis parts not matching up.
Is that just the ball joints? You are going to need axle seals and dust seals as well, plus the yellow o-ring for the hub. These are items that general get destroyed during the tear down or are not in good shape.
Also the moogs will come with grease fittings, a 90 degree for the upper, when you install them, rotate the tire/axle by hand and see if the fitting hits the u-joint, most likely it will. To get around this just grind a little of the fitting down on the flat part of it (the part that will be facing the u-joint), grind just enough for a little clearance.
Also hope you have, ball joint press, (or shop press), maybe a cutting torch, big three jaw puller to get the hub off, tie rod press (or a 2 jaw puller), what I'm getting at is it's a pain to change them. Took me a full weekend to do mine.
I followed the write-up previously posted, excellent write up.
i can do the 2wd trucks that fast, but not the 4wd....
Up here, the camber bushing requires heating and an air chisel for EVERY truck i have ever done. Its a PITA. The hub never separates easily. Some of the time the cotter pins require drilling out because they are rusted solid with the ball joint/tie rod. Other than that they are not bad.
FWIW, it pays 4.5 hours per all data for shop time to do 4x4 ball joints. I'd have to see it for my own eyes to believe you can do both sides in 80 mins. I do this for a living as well.
i can do the 2wd trucks that fast, but not the 4wd....
Up here, the camber bushing requires heating and an air chisel for EVERY truck i have ever done. Its a PITA. The hub never separates easily. Some of the time the cotter pins require drilling out because they are rusted solid with the ball joint/tie rod. Other than that they are not bad.
FWIW, it pays 4.5 hours per all data for shop time to do 4x4 ball joints. I'd have to see it for my own eyes to believe you can do both sides in 80 mins. I do this for a living as well.
Interesting...all I did was pickle fork the bottom joint and hit the upper part of the knuckle and or the upper ball joint stud with a sledge and the whole knuckle pops right out, no messing with the camber joint
I think I got HI-Jacked. :gun:
So to keep the peace:swordfight: and to find out for sure I will donate parts and my truck. One does one side and one does the other to see how fast it can be done. I wont even charge to settle this dispute, I'm that niceoke:
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