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Drive Pressure Gauge?

5K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Bighunter 
#1 ·
Where and how do you hook up a drive pressure gauge? They had one on my '04 for testing but I'd like to install a permanent one now. Pics would help a lot. :D Thanx!
 
#2 ·
Tap the exhaust manifold 1/8NPT
Connect a lenght of hard tubing...copper 1/8" line works but plugs up frequently. I used 1/4" stainless brake line.
Run a few feet of that then adapt over to 1/8" nylon bost gauge line...run that into the cab to an extra boost gauge and you're done.

I use 100 psi gauges for all 3 of my "boost" gauges.

One primary boost, one manifold boost and one drive pressure
IMHO having the same gauges makes it easier to compare reading at WOT.
 
#6 ·
Tap the exhaust manifold 1/8NPT
Connect a lenght of hard tubing...copper 1/8" line works but plugs up frequently. I used 1/4" stainless brake line.
Run a few feet of that then adapt over to 1/8" nylon bost gauge line...run that into the cab to an extra boost gauge and you're done.

I use 100 psi gauges for all 3 of my "boost" gauges.

One primary boost, one manifold boost and one drive pressure
IMHO having the same gauges makes it easier to compare reading at WOT.
That's how I did mine, but went coiled hard line to St St flex to gage sending unit.
 
#3 ·
Not to hijack but, Unbroken, what is the difference between primary boost and manifold?
 
#5 ·
I see, I forgot you had a compound cummins in that thing!
 
#7 ·
Depending on the gauge you may or may not have to add a pressure snubber to keep it readable. Both the Autometer and Isspro would bounce too much in the manifold without the snubber, may have been location, but I am not sure.

Went to the electric one and moved it to the backpressure sender location on the 7.3 (front of manifold) and the issues stoped. Took some programing work by Isspro to buffer it out on the Performax and EV2, but there is no bounce now.
 
#10 ·
From what I understand it is backpressure pre-turbo. Helps to see how well your charger setup is working. 1:1 drive and boost is ideal.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, it can plug. But, the further away you put the senor/gauge from the tap point, the less chance of it plugging something expensive.

No more chance of having a leak than with a mechanical boost gauge, but the leak would be easier to notice on an EBP gauge.
 
#16 ·
IRRC Auto meeter makes a buffer to put between the exhaust and the guage. i like the idea of an electric gauge better. I have a BPG and it's right at the Y comming up from the up pipes.

My guage gets stuck evey now and then. I just seperate the copper line form the ferrell and blow it out. I'm betting that the guage will quit after a bit more abuse.
 
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