Ok, Im gonna attempt to update this as it is completed. I purchased an 04 F250, Crew, Short bed, Lariat, 4x4, 6.0, auto. Engine was severly over heated, like melted the plastic stand pipe in the oil filter hot. Picked it up for 5k with 124000 on the clock. Has 2 brand new batteries.:rockwoot:
The plan is:
Ppumped 24V with a 215 pump and 4GSK kit. Enough supporting stuff for 500hp.
ZF6 with a 3250 DD
Im still not sure how to wire up that stupid electric transfer case. Hopefully that will be working.
Overall everything that did work before will work after the swap. Planing for a 500hp tow rig.
Here are some pics.
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Truck was in my possesion a total of 4hrs at this point:
what did you do to get the powerstroke badge off the door? I want to debadge mine, and take all the badges off and also the 4x4 sticker on the bed. How do you get it off with out damaging the paint?
fishing line, just go behind it with fishing line like a saw to the glue. You can use a heat gun to warm it a little to make it softer if you want. And i used a heat gun to get my 4x4 stickers off the bed.
Head gear is the part that the output shaft slides into. Since the output is different on the 48r then the 5r then just swap the head gear and it will slide right on and bolt up.
im out of my league here... but bean, didnt he say he was using a zf6 trans? Arent those only in powerstrokes? (which would mean ford transfercase would bolt up not modified)
sorry bout the hyjack i just got too excited bout the badge being gone...btw that is gonna be a bad dude with the 24v 6 speed. Im saving up my money rightnow so i can do the 6 speed swaped in behindmy seventhree. Is that clutch you went with gonna be stout enough for hookin up to the occasional tractor pull and then daily drivin the rest of the time?
Ive got the 3850 DD Valair from my dodge to put in it. Just have to clearance a few things. Dan is gonna swap the springs down to a 3250 plate load so it will be more street friendly.
It will be able to pull but, I doubt it will ever hook. This one is just a driver, I got the dodge for the toy:evil
Ahh ok its gonna be a zf6, missed that for some reason I thught you were doing a Dudge auto. In that case, does it have an auto or manual now? If it is a 5r I think the output shafts may be the same. I know the 4r has a smaller output shaft then the zf but I think the 5r and the zf are the same.
My ZF6 fell through with the trade so Im back to the darwing board for a trans.
Looking on paper, I could get a OEM cummins/chevy adaptor, GM ZF6, and continue as planned. Although I think thats a whole other can of worms there. Wonder if that would mate to a ford T case?
Or a NV5600, still have the t-case issue.
Both of those options have me confused about the hydraulics.
Seems like they all cost the same, just need a plan.
Tcase should bolt up to any of those, only problem you may run into is I think the GM stuff has the clocking dowel pin in the wrong location. They my have different output shaft sizes but like I said before, you can just change out the input of the tcase and take care of that.
Ive made little progress, waiting of stuff is the killer. And waiting on the 6.0 crap to sell to give me some extera fundage.
I did manage to "trim" the wiring harnesses. That was simple really. Although I did cut the cam and crank sensor wires off the engine harness, Im hoping to god that the tach kits hook up elsewhere.
Finished product:
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Extra:
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Ill loom the wires after the engine is in so I can hide others in it too. Pyro and such.
I bought an Autometer gauge bezel pod for this thing. Kinda trying to keep with the OEM theme so I molded it to the dash. Used bumper repair adhesives to bond and mold it.
Here it is clamped waiting on the glue to dry.
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This is Fusor 102 bumper repair adhesive used to make the transition smooth.
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Here it is on the 2nd coat. The 3rd made the final feather edge, so this is still kinda rough.
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It sits right now primmed waiting on me to paint it. That should happen early this week.
Ever think you have too much time on your hands? Now order me some 08 mirrors
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