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studded and still puking

3K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  The Oiler 
#1 ·
Ok here we go, studded the heads and it still blows coolant out the rad cap. When I did the tear down the heads were sent out to a machine shop to decked to make them true, tested the valves for leakage and there were no cracks. Checked the bloke and it was perfect. Then used new ford gaskets when I put is back togeather. SO what the hell? The egr is blocked off at the up pipe and the tuning has the egr valve closed. I bought a new rad cap from ford. So the only thing I didnt replace was the degas bottle and egr cooler. Is there a chance that the egr valve is opening under boost and pressurising the egr cooler and it could be rupturing and leaking boost into the coolant system? I am really bumed about this and dont know what else it could be.
 
#2 ·
Based on what was done to the heads, unless the studs were not torqued down properly, I think you are right to be looking elsewhere. Since your EGR cooler is still there, if it is compromised that may well be the problem (even though it is blocked off) or possibly your oil cooler is bad.
 
#3 ·
Im going to check the egr cooler this week and see if that is it. How would I go about testing the oil cooler as I don't have any oil in the water or water in the oil. Where is the oil cooler,is it under the intake manifold?

Thanks
Nathan
 
#4 ·
The oil cooler kinda looks like a carb in this pic..

hard to check on the truck unless you can read temperature differential between the LPO oil, and water..Ford now says 15* differential max..You can pull the EGR valve to see if it looks wet down in there, which can be a good indication that the EGR cooler has failed..
 
#5 ·
Keep it simple first. Big puking or just a little? Coolant level needs to be below the min. line, especially since you are making more power than stock and are lifted. How low varies, I run about an inch below min., some guys keep just enough in them to see some in the tank. How long have you had it done? It takes awhile to get all the air out of the cooling system, and those air bubbles heat up real quick and spike your pressure. Definitely check oil vs. coolant temp also. The cooling system has to deal with more heat when you start making some power, and needs a little more open space in the bottle to deal with it. Hope it is nothing major and good luck.
 
#6 ·
I studded it 3 weeks ago and I had the bottle a little to full when I fill it all back up so I figured that it would burp out some. On friday I was headin to work and layed into it and when I got to work the whole side of my truck was wet with coolant. I havent put any in it since the refill so I have been keeping it below the min mark, just enogh to see it in the bottle. But is still manages to puke, my hood, air box, and fuse panel all have residue on them. I have been running Elites insanity tune in it so would that cause any thing to go wrong? I have my scanner pluged in so I can watch the water temp and the hottest it got was 204 deg, thats not to hot right? I am really pissed right now about this and thought that with all that I did this would not be a problem any more.
 
#9 ·
I checked the block and used a real fine stone to go over the block to clean any rough spots that could be there. I put a strait edge on on it and everything checked out. The shop the did the machine work did my friends 04 heads and no one drop from his truck. There was no erosion on the block so I lucked out there. As far as checking the oil cooler goes, what is the best way to check this?
 
#10 ·
You need to find out what your Coolant Temp is and compare it to your Oil Temp. If they are more than 15* apart then your Oil Cooler is FUBAR.

I'd also pull your EGR Valve and see what it looks like. If it is wet, then your Cooler is shot as well. Tuning can only close the EGR valve something like 95% IIRC and under WOT, pressure can still force it open.
 
#11 ·
Ok, I will check tomorrow. I bought a laser thermometer a while back so I will see.
Thanks
 
#13 ·
For anyone doing studs - please listen to Machinist. It is too much work and too much money to do twice, and if you do not do the proper machine work you will more than likely have problems. Make sure to ask your installer about everything he has pointed out, and if they are not gonna do what is required, take it elsewhere. Pulling the heads off and calling them good just by using a straight edge is pretty much a joke.
 
#14 ·
Well I checked the temps today with my laser thermometer and this is what I found.
coolant temp=185
oil cooler temp =194
egr cooler temp=174
egr cooler line from oil cooler to back of egr cooler in three spots, 174-245-194.
The 245 was taken right where the tube runs under the turbo, is that always that high? I didnt have time to pull the egr valve out, banks high ram and fuel reg are in the way so I will pull all this apart this weekend.
So all and all is temps I recorded sound like the oil cooler is fubared?
 
#16 ·
You cannot make that call with a laser thermometer, and that showed only 9* diff. - within spec. You need to monitor both of those temps with either gauges or preferably a scan tool so you can see what the computer sees exactly. The eot vs. ect should be taken after driving at least 15-20 miles, find a decent size grade and run the puck out of it up it, then start watching your temps right as your letting off at the top. Oil more than 15* hotter = Bad cooler. If you use an SCT, you can set it up to datalog the temp info using livelink, it is very handy and it can log alot of other stuff also.
 
#17 ·
I just remembered that when I pulled the heads off and I had all the injectors out I notice that the bottom o-ring on 6 them was toast. They looked like they where cooked and didnt take much to pull off and brake. I only have 70K on the truck. Would this be a sign of a bad oil cooler?
 
#19 ·
When I came home yesterday I put it in hot street to see if it would make a difference and it still puked out some when I got on it hard.
 
#21 ·
They looked ok, no cracks, or excessive heat transfer. The washers looked good and none of them were dis-colored. I dont know if they where pressure tested or not.
 
#22 ·
Well I checked out some things and am left with the idea that either a gasket failed or a head cracked. I checked the engine oil temp and it was 10 deg cooler than the coolant temp. There is no oil in the water,and I just bought and installed the egr valve plug from diesel tec and its blocked off at the up pipe. So is there any way to test to see if it is a head gasket or a cracked head?
 
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