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Tire Opinions?

7K views 62 replies 13 participants last post by  08wstroke 
#1 ·
Ok have my lift coming in on tuesday i should have it installed by wednesday. Now for tires.. Still not sure about 37's or 35's. ONly getting the readylift sst lift. I showed u guys my brothers with the 37's but still not sure..

Anyway.. Im looking at the Pro comp xtreme A/t, Bf goodrich T/A KM2, Toyo open country M/T's.. Not sure looking for some info from anybody that has either of these and tell me about -tread wear, road noise and any +or -'s with your experiances.

Dont do much offroading but still like the agressive look. But can not stand the whaling of monster tires.
 
#2 ·
i was gonna go with the pro comp but didnt have it in my size rim, but i think they still have buy 3 get 1 free deal!

my brother had the bfg mudders but wore down pretty quick and made alot of noise, then again they were on a toyota!

all around tire i think the pro comp is a good deal! bfg all terrain is a good one too!
 
#3 ·
I do like the bf all terrians i had them on my 89 bronco but they dont have enough side tread.(well for the look im going with this truck.

I was thinking about getting the xd series ambush rims in 20in. I heard that they are factory offest so i can fit a 37 if i wanted.

hey BFT what size and type tires u have on your rig
 
#8 ·
While not an off road tire...I don't think you can go wrong with Kumho. I've been using them for years with zero issues.
I ran a Toyo tire before the set of Kumho's I have now and it was a good tire...just wore out about twice as fast as the Kumho's in the same size.
 
#9 ·
I am in love with the MT ATZ's I put on this time. Best tire I've ever owned. They look exceptionally nice. They have a nice wide contact patch, they hook awesome, they handle awesome, they're quiet, and they still have an aggressive pattern so that you don't get stuck on a banana peel.

Best all terrain I've ever seen.

Oh, and I didn't catch the lift size you're going with, but I'll assume 6". I prefer a 35" tire with the 6" lift. Although you can find just as many or more people that will prefer a 37.

I've run 37's twice, and 35's 3 times as well as 36's a bunch. Between 35's and 37's the 35's get the nod. Looks cleaner, and performs better.

JMO
 
#10 ·
if you want an a/t go with the bfg's i have never owned pro comps but i always hear about guys getting rid of them. if you want a m/t that are good for every day nitto mud grabbers!!! great tire
 
#11 ·
Only going with a readylift sst package. ONly 2.5 inches of lift. with the 37's it comes out to about 4 inches with the lift and tires.. I was looking at the MT atz which look great but they dont have them in 37x12.5x20. but agian not sure if i want 37's or 35's my brotha's harley has the same lift and he has 37 which look great but might be to big for me..

thanks for the info fellas
 
#17 ·
I have an 08 Ford F-250 6.4L, with a 2.5 inch leveling kit in the front and a 2 inch lift in the rear. I only have a 33x12.50R18 Tires on the truck. I have the Toyo Open Country Mud Terrains. They currently have 15,000 miles on them and they are all wearing great still have equal depth on all four and still not cracks or sun dryed sidewalls. They have very little highway noise. Great traction for everyday street driving and little stoplight draging. Very good traction in snow and icy winters. And fairly good traction in the mud. I am predicting at least 35,000 miles on these tires.
 
#22 ·
Ive got to say that the 37's do look good and dont rub at all, but there is one thing that im in question with my brothers truck. In the rear while having no load in the bed i can only fit my thumb between the fenders and tires.

Now if i put some weight in it i think it might grab. But no rubbing while turning.

I have the shop ordering the MT atz in 35. 12.50. 20's and the procomp in 37's. I have to see the clear differance in the two. I have also decided to go with the xd series Monster rim. 20x9.
 
#24 ·
Does anybody know what the factory offset for the oem rims on the f250 with the 20's I cant find the specs anywhere. The xd monsters are a 18mm offset. You think that will rub? i know the rockstars are 20x8.5 and are a 10mm offset and they do not rub with the 37's
 
#25 ·
Why don't you just measure it yourself? Do you have the OEM wheels you're wondering about on the truck at this very moment?

And fwiw, you cannot compare the offset from two wheels of different widths and expect exactly the same performance. And are you sure the offsets you're quoting are not negative values? Shouldn't that be -18 and -10mm?

As an example:

Take an 8.5" wide wheel with a -10mm offset. That wheel is 215.9mm wide. So centerline would be 107.95mm from either side. This means that if the wheel had 0 offset, the distance from the back (inside) of the wheel to the mounting face where it sits against your rotor would be 107.95mm (4 1/4"). Half of 8 1/2". But with a -10mm offset, the wheel mounting face gets pushed 10mm toward the inside of the wheel. Making the wheel "stick out" an extra 10mm. This means the inside of the wheel would be 97.95mm from the rotor face. That just pulled the inside tire sidewall a little over 3/8" away from the suspension, and put the outer sidewall that much closer to rubbing on the back of the front fenders at full lock.

-18mm offset would push the wheel out another 5/16" beyond that.
 
#26 ·
specs on the xd monster are a positve 18mm it says with a 5.71 inch backspace. This is what is says on there website. I see some other offsets with a negitive in front of the number so i am gathering without a minus in front of the number would mean a positive right?.
 
#28 ·
It's negative. It's just getting messed up in translation somewhere along the line. A positive offset would shove the wheel up under the fender by 18mm. Clearly just the opposite of what's actually happening.

However...... a 5.71" BS, does lead me to think the wheel is made that way. Which would be COMPLETELY RETARDED.

For reference, my wheels are 9 1/2" wide, with a -24mm offset. That means a 4 1/4" BS. With a 5.7+ inch BS they would first of all, look like complete ass, all tucked up under the truck, and secondly be completely non-functional because the tires would be all up in the leafsprings as soon as I turned the wheel.

Now it may be the case that the trac width of the newer axles is much wider. And if so, then positive offset would work. Although the axles from flange to flange would have to be MUCH wider. In order for our trucks to sit the same if your wheels had a +18mm offset your axles would have to be over 3 1/4" wider flange to flange than mine are.
 
#27 ·
BFG KM2's Hands down my cousin just got done putting 60k on a set of those tires. and they are awesome off road
 
#32 ·
In that case, scope the sensor output, note it, replicate it and feed it to the PCM until it chokes on it's own tire pressure happiness....

Then take the sensors and throw them away.


Although if a light is the only ill effect.... bulb removal comes to mind.
 
#35 ·
Yeah, even if you remove the light, everytime you start the truck it still says low tire pressure, you have to push the buttono t oget to the rest of the info on the dash...

My F250 was at 65psi, when I had 37s they were rated at 65 and I could run 65 in them and keep the light off...my 38s are D rated and only 55psi tires, so I am focked!
 
#37 ·
If this is the case...... one little black box on each corner with the sensor harness plugged into it, with it sending out the requisite voltage to appease the PCM into the illusion that everything is a happy 65psi and you're done.

Seems easy enough. 4 small project enclosures plugged in. If you all don't want to do it yourself, I'm sure somebody like SP Diesel would be willing to make them up for you. They make all kinds of crap like that. Think EBP dongle...
 
#39 ·
Um....

I"m thinking like 20 bucks? Too much? Ever been to radio shack?


I'm sure if you defined the problem, and took the time to scope the sensor output from the wheel sensors and gave that information to somebody like SP diesel that makes little sensor replication dongles for a living, this problem could be fixed for next to nothing.

Fwiw, resistors are less than $1.00 each. A few connectors and some shrink wrap, a little solder and some time. The connectors are certainly the most expense. Although the sensors themselves could possibly be refashioned to be a fixed output independent of actual pressure. Or cut the connector off and use your own of your choice. Regardless, this is a sub $100 fix no sweat. Probably $50 easy. $20 if you're resourceful.

I don't care. I don't have any problems with lights coming on when I set my air pressure where I want it. So if you want to fix it, I'm simply telling you how to make that happen. At the end of the day the sensors are just sending a voltage back to the PCM on a signal wire. They are almost certainly variable resistance devices. EASILY replicated by anyone with moderate electronics knowledge.

Do as you wish. I'm not trying to cram it down your throat.

:smirk:
 
#41 ·
How is that relevant?

If you replicate the sensor output the sensors themselves are out of the loop. They can be rain activated and it wouldn't matter.


If the PCM wants to see ___ volts on the signal wires.... give it that voltage. If it only wants to see it at certain mph.... do it.

Does anyone know what the PCM needs to see?

Seems like that would be step one.
 
#43 ·
I guess I don't really understand why the needs of the sensor matter. The sensor isn't illuminating the light. The PCM is.

Seems like a minute or so with a scope on the sensor output would at least define the goal.

Something that seems missing from this discussion so far. As nobody has shown they even understand what the PCM wants to see in the first place. Much less how to make it happen.

:shrug:
 
#44 ·
I agree on the sensors. Im sure we could make some pigtails to feed the desired voltage to the pcm. Voltage is voltage. I was just asking for clarification on the factory sensors about the intertia deal. The spare tire deal seemed pretty clever to me too bad it doesnt seem to be a long term idea.

Personally, im not sure why this cant be changed with a ford flash tool. Surely when ford made the 08s they knew people woudl be running different tires. What if you change to bridgestones on even your factory wheels and the cold max psi is off from the factory Contitracs or whatever is on there?

We reinstalled the factory sensors into BigDaddy's 08 but the 325 bfg's dont appreciate 65 or 70 psi lol. Looks like a trip to Radio Shack is in order.
 
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