I've been having this debate since I had my old regular cab. I can't justify spending upwards of $400 for a filter and sheetmetal with mulitple bends around it for a box. Anyone completed any testing to see if aftermarket intakes are actually better since most claim to not pull hot underhood air vs. the tymar style (with a Baldwin, Napa, Donaldson, etc. filter) which pulls air from anywhere it can get it. I've personally not done any testing whatsoever but I figure with a decent flowing filter and the Zoodad mod, a tymar style setup would work for most of the members here. Just some thoughts.
A few people have already done intake air temp testing comparing the Tymar style filters to something like the AFE Stage II. Temp difference at idle was apparent, but once the truck was moving the intake temps were nearly identical between the two setups.
On a personal level I've run both the Tymar style and currently run the AFE Stage II. The only reason I have the AFE is because I got a screaming deal on it. As for differences, swapping intakes did nothing to the performance on my truck. I still ran the exact same times at the track, have the exact same EGT's when driving, towing, or racing, and still have the exact same fuel mileage. What did change is that the shroud around the AFE filter helps to quiet the engine noise in the cab a slight bit, and the setup adds a lot of bling under the hood. Plus the AFE filter is reuseable, where the other is throw away.
So if you really can't justify the price difference, then don't buy the AFE. Lots of trucks run the Tymar style and do just fine.
Your gonna have engine noise just the same with any open element system. I ran a Tymar style setup w/AFE 5" inlet filter and my father has the Stage II system on his truck. Only difference I could really tell was the whistle because of the hybrid H2E I had. I might be dear but thats just my thoughts.
i had a K&M and switched to the 6637. Much better filter with out any power loss. If you do get an outerwear screen to make it last longer and that extra bling if thats whjat you want. I replace mine like every 6 months or so.
at one time DI had some info on how an afe2 was better on built trucks ...
at the power level 90% of the trucks are at I doubt there is a huge difference. once you get around flow restriction , you have to get cooler denser air to gain performance . these designsmay be an eek better but not sure if eek is even 1% or not.
You have to ask yourself, What do I do with this truck??
if you drive around WOT then pretty much any aftermarket filter will work.
Now if you are like the other 99% of the people out there you spend most of your time going from idle to 70 mph or any combination in between, it is there where a well designed air intake will shine it's true colors.
in that scenario the AFE stage II rules hands downs.
and before some of you IDE's post, the filter size itself is not what determines how well an air intake works.
BTW in our testing there was only 1 hp difference between the stage 1 AFE and the stage II AFE, but the AFE stage II is still the hottest selling intake on the market bar none.
a 5-1/2" taper to 4" , taper being the key word.
your basically supercharging the turbo.
A taper will always have a higher velocity than a strait all things being equal.
That is some serious fitration. My main reason for posting this was to see if anyone had tested all of the intake setups and found one to stand out from the rest and why.
My original plan is to use the two sheets of polished SS that I have laying around and bend me up an airbox and use a Tymar filter. I got to thinking about if it would be worth it or not, so I posted this thread. Might still do it since it would be something different.
There's two reasons I switched from my AFE2. First was the filtration is better. And the other was a video I saw of an AFE getting collapsed on a dyno run. Yah it's a bit louder, but I have the peace of mind... Just my .02
In the summer with 70°-90° ambients, driving unloaded on the highway at 70 MPH there will be about 40° difference between under hood temp and outside temp. That will vary according to the load. The under hood temp moves up and down like the EGT. Go up an incline and it will go up 5-10°. Coast down a hill and it may go down 5°. Load it and the differential will be greater. I've seen 100° difference in a hard pull. CATdiezel has said that CAT says 1° in intake air temp = 3° EGT but I don't know if that is measured at the turbo inlet or the manifold. When you stop and let the engine idle the under hood temp decreases in almost every situation.
I am new to the Power Stroke scene so dont beat me down yet!!!!
This is what puzzles me....I know quite a bit about supercharged Mustangs and we put our intakes/air filters inside our fenders(via Power Pipes) so it draws Fresh and Cool Air from the outside....as I matter of fact I have a steel plate I worked up to block the stock air box entry so no Hot Engine Air gets mixed with the Cool Air...
The Tymar and most of the aftermarket air cleaners I see for our trucks look like all they do is Suck in Hot Engine Air....which kills power IMO....
Now I know that everyone flames the stock air boxes and calls them POS, but they appear to be a Cold Ram Air Setup to me....they look like they draw air from the outside and all the engine heat is blocked out...?
The volume of air that a souped up Stroke consumes dwarfs anything you would see in your Mustang. The stock Stroke air box will not flow enough air, and there is so much air flow around the engine that temps are not a problem, especially once you are moving.
Back in 03 when we thought running 13's in a 7.3 Power Stroke was fast, we had manged to get down to a 13.00@99mph in Snow White at World Ford Challenge. After multiple attempts at trying my best to get in the 12's it was not to be that Saturday.
At that time I had a tymar style intake with a big AFE filter from a dodge kit sucking air from under the hood.
An older man walked by and was looking at the engine compartment and we got to talking about the performance numbers and such and how I was trying like mad to break in the 12's. He looked at me and said if you were to build a box around that filter I bet you would get in the 12's on the next pass, I was a lil skeptical but thought what have I got to lose, so we found a card board box and a roll of duct tape and fabricated a box that resembled the AFE stage II and sure enough next pass went a 12.93@103 mph.
BTW a pic of that contraption was emailed to Nick at AFE and the Stage II was born
An older man walked by and was looking at the engine compartment and we got to talking about the performance numbers and such and how I was trying like mad to break in the 12's. He looked at me and said if you were to build a box around that filter I bet you would get in the 12's on the next pass,
Hmmm, I wonder if that is a reason the AIS is sealed and has a schnorkel.
Not so much from a performance standpoint more from the non existent under hood temp issue.
Run the stock air box, but remove the front piece that runs next to the battery to the grille....that way it pulls cold air from the grille, but also gets the benefit of all the engine bay air....(it will still be mostly cold air from the grille)
Then run a K&N Drop In Filter(but before everyone freaks out about Dusting the motor etc......)....If I sealed the top of the stock box real well using the K&N grease or even taking it up a notch and using RTV...seems like to me this is a better setup than going Tymar and sucking in hot engine air...?
Run the stock air box, but remove the front piece that covers the battery....that way it pulls cold air from the grille, but also gets the benefit of all the engine bay air....(it will still be mostly cold air from the grille)
Then run a K&N Drop In Filter(but before everyone freaks out about Dusting the motor etc......)....If I sealed the top of the stock box real well using the K&N grease or even taking it up a notch and using RTV...seems like to me this is a better setup than going Tymar and sucking in hot engine air...?
Just realized after going out and looking under the hood that my grand idea SUCKS......I did not realize how small the grille opening was for the stock air box/snorkle...
i like your idea but instead of taking the peice out your talkin about id leave it in and do the zoodad mod and use the rtv on both sides of the K and N. i like the idea cuase thats exactly what i did to mine. It works great, just make sure you clean and oil your k and n real good cause youll have to get all the rtv off when its time to clean it again. I coasted the airbox top and bottom with pam so the rtv wouldnt stick to good to it but stil conform to the shape and dry. i know mine dont leak air around the filter i had the truck runnin and was blowin smoke around the air filter to make sure it wouldnt suck any in around it.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Power Stroke Nation
2.5M posts
107.3K members
Since 2007
A forum community dedicated to Ford Power Stroke owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about diesel performance, modifications, EGR deletes, troubleshooting, lift kits, tires, wheels, maintenance, and more!