Well I got it all together... fixed the oil leak i had. Fired it up and is running like piss and smoking really bad. Smoke kinda smells like raw fuel. Here is a video.
How far have you driven the truck? There is still a ton of air in the system (I can tell because of how long it cranks before starting). Let it warm up and go drive the piss out of it... Then take another video...
Thanks for the call... I had let it idle for 20 mins or so and backed it out of the barn. I will do what you said and go and drive it tonight and see what happens
Like Nate said, it is absolutely FULL of air. I have no idea why it's taking that long to purge that little bit of air (dropping the reservoir on my truck you'd never know after reinstalling and cranking), but it's there, so go drive it out of there.
Like Nate said, it is absolutely FULL of air. I have no idea why it's taking that long to purge that little bit of air (dropping the reservoir on my truck you'd never know after reinstalling and cranking), but it's there, so go drive it out of there.
If you don't make the injectors consume large quantities of fuel (high pw) you can't get those air pockets out.
Rpm will not do it, it will make it worse. You need a good load between 2000 and 2500 or so rpm. Although high rpm works well as long as your WOT using a bunch of oil.
I have never had this issue in the many sets of injectors I have changed, But I also Pre-Fill the rails with new clean oil and a specially designated oil gun and pre-fill the reservoir.
Matter fact this last set I just installed in my personal truck it fired right up and ran smooth as if I had just driven to the moon and back.....
Like these guys have said let it run for a few minutes and take it for a drive,
Where is the smoking really bad part? I do remember your also running large injectors also...... Its gonna smell a little raw at idle.
Thanks for the help guys. I will go home tonight and let it run for about 15 mins then go and drive it a little and see what happens. I did fill the reservoir b4 firing it up.
This takes more time, but I pull the two formost plugs out of the rails in the head and fill the rails. I use a plastic 1/8 tubing and a oil gun. Works perfect.
just a fyi--probably no need on yours at this point.
Let us know how it goes tonight.
And if yo can manage to scrounge up a few extra hundred dollars AE scan tool would be beneficial for you.
Let me know how it does after you get the air purged.... There is a set of injectors that are exactly like yours out there and the customer drove 200 miles and it still had air in it. I drove it for 5 miles and got all the air out:evil
number 1 is enough to get the pressure up there, run it in anger as long as your engine builder approves (fresh motor right?). Do you have AE or antything to monitor your IPR duty cycle at idle and volume fuel desired? Just to make sure you don't have any HPO leaks in the rail or anything.
I wish i had AE or something but i dont. Yes fresh motor... i put it together... DI Short Block, dual comp valve springs, high performance push rods, head studs all the good stuff like that.
Call up DI and ask how to break in the motor properly..... You may not have even seated the rings yet so compression will be low until it does. You are using conventional oil for the break-in right?
If it still starts like that after 2 or 3 starts, you have other problems than typical air from a new injector install. It is not building oil pressure.
Either an injector is not seated properly or it could be a torn, pinched, or scuffed o-ring.
A straight edge across the top of the solenoids will show an improperly seated injector. If not, pull each one and inspect.
I have changed and/or installed hundreds of injectors and installed many "new" engines. 5-10 min of idleing and less than 2 mi. of driving is all it takes to remove air from the injection system after an install or a new engine PERIOD. When driving, it is literally like some flipped a switch when the air is purged. Anything more than a couple miles, and there is other problems.
And you don't want a sh*t ton of ICP... it's not pressure you're after, it's flow.
That's why I suggested keeping the rpm between 2000 and 2500. You need pw, not ICP. You want the most oil passing through the injectors as possible and the least amount passing across the IPR at high pressure. With aerated oil, spraying it across the IPR at high rpm, high ICP and low pw will just further aerate the oil.
Run your hottest setting and let it eat (as much as you would on a fresh engine).
The entire de-aeration process takes me about 10 minutes.
Oh, and like Justin said, I always fill everything up before I fire it as well. When I fired this engine for the first time I fired right up on the first try nearly immediately.
yeah I figured that out when i didnt know there where 8 shorter studs... so when i re did them all i made sure it wasnt tuching the studs when i put the injectors in. they are close thats for sure
But what should the injector bolts be torqued to? 10 lb-ft right?
Well it took it for a 5 mile drive... ran like #### the whole ####ing time... white smoke everywhere... Got back noticed oil on the driver side back exhaust manifold.
Called Nate... said could be that that injector wasnt seated right. So i pull that injector... change the o-ring put it back in. Take out the glow plug and crank the motor over a few times till all the oil is out of the cylinder. Start it back up and got a really bad knocking sound. Video is being uploaded right now
I dunno what that sound is, almost sounds like an exhaust leak...are you sure you got the push rods in and correctly? I know it's a shot in the dark, but I think your truck is cursed.
Is the SES light flashing while you're cranking? I don't have the SD instrument cluster memorized, so I'm not sure where it is...top left side, a yellow light is flashing while you're cranking.
If you want my Scan Gauge, I'll get it shipped out to you...
Chip settings change anything? Remove the chip and see if that makes any difference?
If you "torqued" the injector hold down bolts.... it sounds like you may have never gotten the injectors seated properly.
Did you bang the hell out of them with a hammer first? You should always tighten those bolts until they feel like you should stop before they break.
The fluid on the manifold may very well be coming FROM the manifold, and it may very well be raw fuel out of that cylinder getting pumped out the exhaust valve on every exhaust stroke if the injector wasn't seated and just pissing fuel out the cup 24-7.
To be honest I have never ever torqued anything on the engine except the most important pieces (i.e. Rods, mains, studs....) I actually trust my elbow more than my Snap-on torque wrenches. LOL
After watching the video I would get those VC's off and start pulling pushrods and checking them for straightness, as well as inspecting the rockers. Start with the affected cylinder.
Then take a deadblow/plastic hammer and knock HELL out of the tops of all the solenoids and check the hold down bolts for tightness again. And don't use a torque wrench. Get them TIGHT... (obviously don't go ape-#### and break them).
I agree with Charles, check all the pushrods. might have definetly hydrolocked that cylinder. Just hope its something easy and not a bent rod to go along with it.
Could a connecting rod bend from a cyl being hydrolocked and trying to start it, or would it take more force like if the engine was actually running to bend the conn rod?
connecting rods don't like trying to compress a fluid.
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