Whats the best setup on a 38r? wastegate or no wastegate? What do you see for boost outta these things with a gate and/or without? I have seen some run them with the a/r 1.15 non-wastegated housing, just wondering what the general opinion is on that. Whats turbo lif expectancy like when not running a wastegate? Any ifno is greatly appreciated, thanks!
It all depends on what injectors you are running. I have the 38R on my truck and I have the stock injectors. My wastegate is set so that it never opens. I don't push the turbo hard enough to require a functional wastegate on the 1.0 turbine housing, and I don't need the 1.15 housing either. The only thing that will get me with my setup is a bit more lag on the bottom end.
I had the 38r with the 1.0 and the 1.15 housing. For me the 1.15 housing was better. 38r with 1.15 housing (non wastegate) with 238cc hybrids I saw 42 psi max boost. 10-35 psi was amazing in the 120 tune @ 1500 degrees. In the 140 tune I could hit 1700 degree's and hit the 40+ psi...
Also dynoed 470 RWHP with an exhaust leak that you wouldn't believe with the 1.0 housing.
While you may be running the 1.0 housing with the gate shut, and making happy boost/power/response, the 1.15 housing would make more power, around the same boost and very similar "response", as long as response means engine power, and not boost needle movement. This is because it "handles" the exhaust side so much better (efficiently). And unless you've got it wired shut/welded, it's hard to say for sure the gate isn't opening on you. In my experience anyway.
On the dyno my truck made more power at all points from 1000 to 3600rpm with the 1.15 housing on the 38R as a single. There was not one spot where the 1.0 housing touched the 1.15 on power or torque.
At lower altitude, that might be so. Heck, with stock injectors, there's no need for a wastegate on the 38R in either the 1.0 or the 1.15 configuration. Also, I have ridden in Jacob's truck back before he made a few changes to his truck, and I've heard the 38R surge under his hood. Mine doesn't surge, but I know better than to say that these turbos are surge free. The 1.15 housing does help with surge issues. So that can be another advantage of running it over the 1.0 housing. So yeah, I can see where you are coming from Charles. The best combo can be found with a little trial and error, and a dyno or drag strip is definitely handy when trying to dial in your combo.
I can only speak from what I see, but up here in Colorado, turbo lag is a huge problem. Even stock turbos are laggy turds, and that lag creates big problems for daily drivability. It's much more difficult to squeeze out power below 2000 RPM's (and especially below 1500 RPM's) at high altitude than it is at sea level. I think that's where having the 38R running a 1.15 housing on a stock injectored truck might have some issues. But that's my opinion. Maybe one day we can find out for sure. Would be fun to have a .84 housing laying around too, just to do a 3 way comparison.
Oh and don't worry Charles, there's no way my wastegate opens up. ostwhore2:
Listening to the people on here, I never even ran my 38R on the 1.00... I switched it over to the 1.15 and have been very happy... IIRC they are $300 ish plus $100 more of the adapter
The only way they should be sold is with the 1.15 housing. I ran one with the 1.00, and the 1.15. The only thing I saw was 0 surge, lower EGT's, Lower Peak Boost and more HP...
I think after talking to someone very knowledgable on these chargers that Im gonna give the 1.00 a run first, just gotta make room in the firewall to fit it
I would personally rather have the instant supercharger type response and give up a few WOT ponies.
as far as EGT'S are concerned, you only need about 350rwhp to pull a trailer up a hill at WOT and any competent tuner can make a tow tune that will not go over 1200 degrees at WOT.
if you are going to argue the differences between a 1.0 and 1.15 turbine housing your choosing a turbo that is to small for your application anyway
I like mine with the 1.0, but I really don't have anything to compare it to.
However, if I had something other than stock sticks I would have ponied up the money for the 1.15 based off of all the info that has been posted on here.
Yup, and what its like on the 66 from BDP. I have wanted to run a .94 housing on my 66 for along time now but thrust bearing center sections and higher drive pressures just equal bad situations
I finally installed my 38r last week with the 1.15 housing and it is very sweet. the truck is way more fun to drive.
I do have one question, The EGTs seem to be a little warmer at cruise speed-70 MPH, about 50-75 degrees over the stock turbo but when towing a heavy load the temps are cooler as they should be.
My question- Is it normal for the cruising temps to run a little hotter with the 38r vs. the stock unit?
If it makes any difference I am running 50/50 WMO/diesel.
I dunno if it's normal. But with the 1.00 housing I'm running about 50 ish warmer vs. the stocker with a 1.00 housing. But absolutely cooler towing and a WOT.
You guys have kept close enough track of your egt that you can tell 50° difference in housings? Mine changes more that that from the bumps in the road.
Ed
That was a low blow comparing you to Joe, I apologize.
Please forgive me and yes we are still buddies:bowfast:
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Power Stroke Nation
2.5M posts
107.3K members
Since 2007
A forum community dedicated to Ford Power Stroke owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about diesel performance, modifications, EGR deletes, troubleshooting, lift kits, tires, wheels, maintenance, and more!