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Oil Change

3K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  Marty 
#1 ·
Just did my own oil change with Rotella 15W40 and motorcraft filter and I'm getting a rough start now on initial morning startup... Before the change it was starting up real smooth... I'm wondering if I missed something. Oil level is good.
 
#7 ·
Everyone is spot on, these engines run best with 5W/40. I would change the oil filter but that's up to you. If you don't change the filter out at least unscrew the oil filter cap so you drain the oil out of it at least. :)
 
#12 ·
His problem followed an oil change

I don't think that requires a History exam (jk) to figure out this truck would benefit from a lower viscosity multigrade ?

and We never did find out the ambient morning temps this truck deals with ?

not to argue the 15 weight works fine for many but the easy fix here is a oil change IMHO
 
#14 ·
I'm a little surprised nobody has asked what filter you put in. Whoever changed the oil on it before might have bought the aftermarket filter that comes with it's own cap and threw out the Ford cap, so now you need to be using Motorcraft filters, but you need the Ford cap to make it work right. Otherwise oil drains out of the filter bowl.
I would leave the oil and switch to synthetic next time.
 
#18 ·
Make sure it's a MotorCraft filter, with a MotorCraft CAP.

Are you sure you used Rotella 15w40?

I have 200k on one of my 6.0 and it gets MotorCraft 15w40. I changed the oil in 4 6.0L already this week, all of which got MotorCraft 15w40.

Yes, you can switch to 5w40... I used MobileOne, Rotella T6 if the customer asks and I do not have any issues with that. If you switch your oil it can't "hurt" anything but your wallet. I would pull the drain plug, remove the filter, reinstall the filter once the bowl is empty and then put the new oil in if doing an oil swap. Mixing on this miniature level is fine.

Personally I would see if someone could get a scanner on that thing. I would check ICP/IPR while starting in the morning and see what it's doing. Takes two minutes and doesn't cost you $100 if you have the scanner or someone you know does.
 
#20 ·
252k on my original injectors I started running synthetics at 20k. Crappy design maybe I would argue that oil quality is key.

Even with all the different brands of synthetics I have used I found some that I just would never use again. I have my personnel choices of oil. All run $20+ a gallon made by the big companies. I use MC/Fram oil filters with a by-pass filter. I'm going to get my OA at 257k to see what Blackstone says about the sample.
 
#23 ·
#31 ·
#1 cause of 6.0L injector failure is in the oil side. Obviously if you put bad fuel in the truck it's going to destroy the fuel side, but I'm talking about the injectors themselves failing on their own with proper fuel/maintenance.
 
#24 ·
In the early days, Ford published a chart that had low fuel pressure as the number 1 cause of injector failure. I will post a link to the chart in a little bit.

Also, in the Alliant Power bulletin (link above), the chart showing the recommended oil weights is a little outdated. Ford has revised it to say that 5W40 is good all the way to in excess of 100 degrees F ambient temperatures.

So - a question for Polish Pete .....
Are you advocating 15W40 below 30 degrees?

Edit -

Here is the cart (and it shows stiction as a VERY close "second" to fuel starvation) ....

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/members/bismic-146250-albums-miscellaneous-209-picture-injector-failure-chart-3024.html

Also, here is the updated oil chart ........

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/members/bismic-146250-albums-miscellaneous-209-picture-oil-chart-81715.html
 
#33 ·
The way I read the thread it looked like it was a fuel vs oil failure debate. Sure, the electrical side sucks but the reason international rates the injectors at a 100k mile service life is because of the oil side. The fuel side, with proper fuel supply, shouldn't have an issue lasting 2-300k miles on EVERY injector.
 
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