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Drive shaft and rearend angles?

3K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  jtgf250 
#1 ·
Get a bad vibration at about 42mph. My driveshafts line up straight but the yoke on the rear is kicked up about 5 degrees. Truck is a CCLB with 4 inches and 35s. Rear blocks are tapered. What kind of angle should the rear be at? Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
If this issue just started and nothing has changed most likely you have either a u-joint or carrier bearing going out on ya. If its been going on since you made a change, check your angles at the transfer case and rear diff. You want them to be within 3* of each other. If you just changed your u-joints make sure you put your shaft back together in phase.
 
#3 ·
I haven't done anything to the rear uther than change fluid and replace shocks. U-joint look good and carrier bearing has little movement when pushing up on the shaft. Yeah it just look kinda odd with the rear kicked up so high like it is. You can see it. I put an angle finder on it and with the straight edge on the drive shaft the face of the yoke on the rear is 5* higher. I thought it should be more in line with the shafts or down more if anything. Thanks
 
#5 ·
Nope one tapered block. short end towards the front. Guy at the 4x4 shop told me to turn them around and see what happens. He agreed it didnt look right but just said I had to do trial and error. I dont want to go out and buy a bunch of blocks to see what works. Same issue we talked about alittle at Woodbridge Heavy
 
#7 ·
So how should the pinion and driveshaft line up properly is my question I guess. Inline? Pinion slightly up? Pinion slightly down?
 
#9 ·
Thanks Zmann. That helps alot. I'll read it more later when I get time. I'll have to check the angle at the t-case but looks to me the rear needs to come down some. I looked at a guys truck here at work when he got here, its a F350 dually but he has 4" lift also. His drive shaft looks to be inline with the rear. Atleast you cant see the difference like on my truck. The blocks on his truck are stacked but flat, no taper.
 
#11 ·
Right, that what someone else told me to try. When we get back from our trip this weekend I'm gonna take it to my buddies shop and flip them and see what happens. We may have some flat blocks around there I could try also. Thanks for all the help. I'll update ya
 
#13 ·
As far as I can tell
 
#14 ·
Well, I went ahead and odered new Spicer U-joints and carrier bearring. Also bit the bullet and ordered a PMF single traction bar setup with the incorporated block. Went with a flat block setup which should get me were I need to be. Gonna install the traction bar/blocks first and see were that put me then the new joints. Found a thread on here were to get the joints and bearring, $102 shipped for 3 joints and the bearring. I think that was a good deal.
 
#16 ·
LOL of course. Drive Train America.
#5-160x rear u-joiunts
#211359X carrier bearing
 
#17 ·
Pulled the shafts before coming to work tonight and figured I'ld do the joints and all when I have some down time at work tonight. Well, 3.5 hours later its all done. I have never had u-joints take me that long at the house with a block of wood and hammer LOL. Figured at work I could use the press and all the wonderful tools in our shop. Of course all the puller sets were locked up and had to use pieces and parts of sets to get the carrier bearing off. Got the yokes all off fine but ended up cutting the old joints at the cups and then pressing the cups out. They were siezed in pretty good. Then you could see were someone had hit the edge were the clips go in with a hammer on one end, so of course when I pressed the cup out, that piece broke off. Its only about 1/4 -3/8 pieceand only down to the clip edge so I think it will be ok. I just put the open end of the clip to that side. I'll try to get it all back together tomorrow afternoon and see what it does now. Still think the rear needs to come down. The old joints and bearing were all in pretty good shape buck went ahead and replaced them. Guess we'll see.
 
#19 ·
that is it I am getting mine done at a shop LOL

I am thinking of maybe going 1 piece drive shaft
a lot of guys were buying them and no the 2013 ccsb has a 1 piece so all the talk about the ccsb is to long for a single shaft has been put to rest

thx for the part #'s
 
#20 ·
No problem, yeah I've been thinking about the one piece. My buddy just had one made for his 99 and loves it. He pretty much had to beg the shop to do it or he said he'ld take the truck somewhere else. In my opinion he should have anyway but thats me, dont care for their work. My trucks a CCLB but have seen them. Just alot of dough, I've heard around $1000.
 
#23 ·
Thats why I dont have one LOL. My buddy paid like $850 for his on a extended cab long bed. I'm putting my shafts back in tomorrow if the rain holds off so we'll see what happens
 
#24 ·
Well got it them back in and seems to ahve helped. Vibration still there just not nearly as bad and actually none at all at 42 as before but moved up to around 50. Its noticable but nothing like it was before. Hopefully the new blocks and traction bars will cure the rest.
 
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