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Lift Blocks?????

2K views 13 replies 2 participants last post by  Zmann 
#1 ·
Hello guys

Im new here but have been useing this site for a long time. You all are very helpfull. ive been searching since my first transmission got gutted in my truck. I have a late 1999 F250sd that i bought about 3 years ago. here is a little about my truck. 4" straight pipe turbo back, stage 2 injectors Termanaitor HPOP Big Bad turbo custom front and rear driveline custom stage 4 transmission TYMAR intake heater delete and just put in a new custom 6 tune chip. I have gone through 3 stage 4 transmission in the past 2 years and have been trying to figuer out why. The truck looks like it has stock worn out front springs and factory rear springs but I have 5.5" lift blocks:eek: that does not seem right. I want to think that my rear pinon is not pitched right and therfore causeing a bind and then once again gutted transmission. Ive been trying to figuer out why I have tall lift blocks and could this be the cause of the problem. tire size on the truck is 295/75/16 but looks like i could fit 305 or 315. if there is any other information you need just ask

thank you
 
#7 ·
not sure how unless you can find a known OEM to check against


so your tooling along and wham the trany splits ?


where does it split ?


sounds like it either lets go internally or the drive shaft stops abruptly and even then I think you would see skid marks and a locked up diff

can't imagine the rear yoke is at such an angle it would bind and pop a case open ?
 
#8 ·
this last one split from the bell houseing to the tailshaft. every time this happens it spins off the rear u-joint twists the driveline and twists the straps off the rear yolk of the axle. there 5.5 " tapered blocks could they be backwards? and someone said that the truck could have been stuck in 4wd even though it does not show on my dash?
 
#9 ·
Hmm

the 4x4 is interesting but you should have felt that in the steering

easy to check just make sure the front DS spins by hand


I have an 8 inch lift that was a six originally my blocks were backwards from the OP

so I flipped them

now I have 8 inch springs with a small block no taper

never a bind issue but if you needed to check anything I would look at the drop carrier bearing



it seems to have to be an external force at one of the drive shafts or if in 4x4

it would bind but not sure it would internally explode ??

I have read about other folks with the same issue but never did read the solution
 
#10 ·
the front driveshaft spins free but it will spin slowly going down the road normal? and since my blocks are tapered which way should they be instaled. my truck is an ext. cab with a short box so this is no carrier bearing just t-case then double cardan then shaft and yolk then ujoint then rear axle. This last time was the worst one. when i had the trans pulled i had them inspect the t-case as well and they said no damnage was present. ive talked to ford dealers and other powerstroke owners and they all scratch there head on this. your the only one who has given me real options as to what could be wrong. im just tired of having a new tranny put in then not even 6months down the road haveing it replaced this last one happened after 2,341 miles on it
 
#13 ·
Hey Zmann I went and messured my rear blocks today and this is what I found out. Looking from the rear block it messures 5 1/8" and from the front of the blocks is 5.5" so the guy who had the truck before me put the blocks on backwards. I think this is where the binding comes from. This last time I was driving down hwy 40 at 65mph and that's when everything happend. So I'm guess that much of a down pitch on the rear end locked up the drivetrain and before the straps or ujoint had a chance to brake it locked the tranny up and split the houseing wide open. Does this seem possible.
 
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