I am going to build traction bars. Here is a pic of a line I put under the truck to find the angle to match the driveline angle. At this angle the measure from 3" directly under the axle tube up to the bottom of the frame is 7' 7". Please let me know if I am doing this right. They seem real long. Going to use bushing on axle end with heim in frame end. 2" tube 1/4" wall Dom.
Ill see if I can send you some pics of mine. My buddy and I build them. Axle hop went away. I really like them. My trucks dirty right now and the look kind of rugged but it might help.
Check out the ProComp traction bar mounting kit #72099B, Summit has them and some sponsors also. The rear mounting point is slightly forward and lower than the axle spring pad. The mount replaces the spring pad. The kit also has the front mount bracket that attaches to the frame. You can use a bushing on one end but don't use Heim joints. Heim joints are metal-to-metal and after they wear a bit, they clank. Use Jonny joints instead, made by Currie Industries. They have a 1-1/4" joint and weld bushing that fits 2" DOM tube just like a simular Heim joint would and come in CW and CCW rotation threads for bar length adjustment. Jonny joints have a rubber bushing construction that does not clank after initial use.
You can use PVC plastic pipe to mock up the bar length by matching driveshaft angle. Tape the joints to the pipe and locate the front mounting points. PVC pipe is a cheap way to jig up the bar length and determine the front mount location.
You can use a bushing on one end but don't use Heim joints. Heim joints are metal-to-metal and after they wear a bit, they clank. Use Jonny joints instead, made by Currie Industries. They have a 1-1/4" joint and weld bushing that fits 2" DOM tube just like a simular Heim joint would and come in CW and CCW rotation threads for bar length adjustment. Jonny joints have a rubber bushing construction that does not clank after initial use.
I have found a good deal on 1 3/4 od 1 1/2 Id Dom. It's .120 wall. Everyone I have talked to said this is plenty strong enough. I will look into the Johnny joints.
i can get the 1 3/4'' od .120 wall for $4/ft. was hoping it would work. the .25 wall dom is like $13/ft for 2'' od. $182 for tube vs $56 for tube. i call RuffStuff, Ballistic and a few local fab guys told me .25 is over kill the .120 is fine.
you are going to bend the chit out of .120 wall...it will be like two rubber bands under there...LOL
...Fabtech(junk), and Superlift(junk) make theirs out of thin material....and they all fail...spend the money now...or spend more on repairs later....up to you.
I got 2"x0.250" DOM tube and the 1-1/4" Jonny joints to make mine. I also have a 550hp+ engine to install, so that influenced my choice also. Some others chose to use 1.75" diameter stuff but still stuck with 0.250 wall DOM. There has been several threads on making these single bar setups on this site. There is one going on now in the OBS General section.
Once the Heim joints wear, they start to make noise because the clearances open up. The Jonny joints use a rubber bushing and are also rebuildable if needed later.
You want ladder bars with a shackle ip front. They will allow the axel to move up a d dow. But not wrap backwards. Trac bars just hold the axel and it becomes very stiff.
Jonhy joints are just link ballistic joints but last longer. Dont use heims on a DD, use a jonhy on the frame side and a rubber on the axle side. This will allow for just a little flex and it will keep the road noise out of your truck.
i bought a set of the f-150 style bushings to try those on the frame end. I have a 76 bronco with the same style bushings i am going to look at it over the weekend to figure the mount part out. might be easiest to find a junk f-150 and steal the mounts off of it instead of making them?
I chose to use the Ballistic semi solid joints over the Jonhy joints due to being able to torque the bushings instead of a snap ring on the johny joint, better desighn IMO plus as it wears some you can re torque them. Not to mention the ability to use a larger 5/8"s bolt over the 9/16" JJ bolt. I put the ballistic joints on all 14 corners of my CJ's suspension
to clarafy I am talking about these joints: Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
not these: Ballistic Forged Poly Bushing 2.63"
You could do without fine. But if you would like to make sure you will not see any axel wrap or hop go ahead. Its always cool to build something for the rig.
just wondering if its worth the time? I think this could help when accelerating from a stop on an incline... If it does what i think it does...
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