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Traction bars

10K views 33 replies 10 participants last post by  Rollncoal7.3 
#1 ·
I am going to build traction bars. Here is a pic of a line I put under the truck to find the angle to match the driveline angle. At this angle the measure from 3" directly under the axle tube up to the bottom of the frame is 7' 7". Please let me know if I am doing this right. They seem real long. Going to use bushing on axle end with heim in frame end. 2" tube 1/4" wall Dom.
 

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#3 ·
Check out the ProComp traction bar mounting kit #72099B, Summit has them and some sponsors also. The rear mounting point is slightly forward and lower than the axle spring pad. The mount replaces the spring pad. The kit also has the front mount bracket that attaches to the frame. You can use a bushing on one end but don't use Heim joints. Heim joints are metal-to-metal and after they wear a bit, they clank. Use Jonny joints instead, made by Currie Industries. They have a 1-1/4" joint and weld bushing that fits 2" DOM tube just like a simular Heim joint would and come in CW and CCW rotation threads for bar length adjustment. Jonny joints have a rubber bushing construction that does not clank after initial use.

You can use PVC plastic pipe to mock up the bar length by matching driveshaft angle. Tape the joints to the pipe and locate the front mounting points. PVC pipe is a cheap way to jig up the bar length and determine the front mount location.
 
#7 ·
You can use a bushing on one end but don't use Heim joints. Heim joints are metal-to-metal and after they wear a bit, they clank. Use Jonny joints instead, made by Currie Industries. They have a 1-1/4" joint and weld bushing that fits 2" DOM tube just like a simular Heim joint would and come in CW and CCW rotation threads for bar length adjustment. Jonny joints have a rubber bushing construction that does not clank after initial use.
i have heim joints in mine with no noise and no issues.. the rubber mount looks like it would be nice though!
 
#4 ·
I have found a good deal on 1 3/4 od 1 1/2 Id Dom. It's .120 wall. Everyone I have talked to said this is plenty strong enough. I will look into the Johnny joints.
 
#5 ·
.120 is way thin... sure its not .25? even then at over 7 feet that would flex easy
 
#6 ·
i can get the 1 3/4'' od .120 wall for $4/ft. was hoping it would work. the .25 wall dom is like $13/ft for 2'' od. $182 for tube vs $56 for tube. i call RuffStuff, Ballistic and a few local fab guys told me .25 is over kill the .120 is fine.
 
#9 ·
what about schedule 80 pipe? the metal guy tells me it is 1.9'' OD 1.5'' ID .20 wall. Does the seam make it too weak?
 
#11 ·
Anyone know about the schedule 80 pipe?
 
#12 ·
I got 2"x0.250" DOM tube and the 1-1/4" Jonny joints to make mine. I also have a 550hp+ engine to install, so that influenced my choice also. Some others chose to use 1.75" diameter stuff but still stuck with 0.250 wall DOM. There has been several threads on making these single bar setups on this site. There is one going on now in the OBS General section.

Once the Heim joints wear, they start to make noise because the clearances open up. The Jonny joints use a rubber bushing and are also rebuildable if needed later.
 
#13 ·
sched 80 would be better then the 1/8" i think... but again its over 7 feet. you could try it.
 
#14 ·
The schedule 80 is .22 wall according to the metal guy. Anyone run it before?
 
#15 ·
I've got one up off road ladder bars. You can't go wrong with their set up at all.
 
#16 ·
I'm cheap and have a nice miller mig I need to use more so I want to build a set
 
#17 ·
I see what you are saying, but why not just replace the whole joint once the noisevis unbearable? Vvs. Rebuilding a johnny joint.


I Wish I would have know aboutvthe johnny joint when I built mine, butit was a spur of the moment build amd thats all the local hardware store had..
 
#18 ·
Im thinking of doing the old bronco or f150 bushings instead of the johnny or heims.
 
#21 ·
sure pics would be cool if not a hassle. yeah i havent bought the .120 wall i am a little scared to. my bars are going to be 7' long.
 
#24 ·
i bought a set of the f-150 style bushings to try those on the frame end. I have a 76 bronco with the same style bushings i am going to look at it over the weekend to figure the mount part out. might be easiest to find a junk f-150 and steal the mounts off of it instead of making them?
 
#26 ·
I chose to use the Ballistic semi solid joints over the Jonhy joints due to being able to torque the bushings instead of a snap ring on the johny joint, better desighn IMO plus as it wears some you can re torque them. Not to mention the ability to use a larger 5/8"s bolt over the 9/16" JJ bolt. I put the ballistic joints on all 14 corners of my CJ's suspension
to clarafy I am talking about these joints:
Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
not these:
Ballistic Forged Poly Bushing 2.63"
 
#28 ·
probably a dumb question, but would traction bars be benificial to a truck like my 96? in my sig? Its a Camper hauler
 
#30 ·
just wondering if its worth the time? I think this could help when accelerating from a stop on an incline... If it does what i think it does...
 
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