Truck ran perfectly yesterday and shut down fine last night. Went to start this AM and noticed no instrument lights, no gauges. WTS light will not illuminate. I checked fuse 30 which IIRC was the fuel heater fuse that can short out taking the PCM with it but it had continuity. Checking the manual I cannot find a fuse for the fuel heater listed. This is for an '02. Is the fuse different? After work I will pull the chip and test the PCM without it. I do not have time now. The chip is still very tightly secured to the PCM however. Any other thoughts? Also the starter worked fine and the voltage at the batteries was 12.9.
Or it might be fuse #28. Either way, it's probably the fuel bowl heater that shorted out. Unplug it on the back of the fuel bowl, and find the fuse that's blown.
Ok, everything that I see shows either fuse #22 or #30. Might be a good idea to just go ahead and take them out and replace them even if they still look good. Never know for sure with those things.
Yes. I can continuity test them all quickly but knowing the correct one would be more efficient. I will disconnect the heater wiring. Another good reason to eliminate the fuel bowl. Just haven't had time to do it even though all the plumbing (5/8" pickup, Dahl 150, Bosch pump, 1 micron post pump microglass filter, y-block, and hoses) is sitting on the shelf.
I am getting frustrated. I pulled the PCM and changed to spare with no WTS light. I disconnected the heater element. No blown fuses. Grrr. Any other suggestions. I will run to the store and pick up some new fuses to start swapping at random but none fail with a continuity tester.
Having same problem with a buddies truck.
Tried everything I know.
Fuses all good, batteries great, spins over better than mine, new CPS, twice!
No trash in IPR, WTS light is working, no smoke from exhaust, HPO res. is topped off and full, Cleaned ICP sensor. And I'm sure he checked some other stuff, cant remember right now. Oil pressure on dash is coming up fine, ahhhhhhhh. Lemme know what you come up with on yours.
GOOD LUCK!
I already replaced or switched all the fuses and no joy. Arghhhhhhh. When things get desparate, I usually call Mike Hallas for advice. He suggested that when all the usual things fail, it can be due to a bad ground or a short in one of the sensors the PCM monitors. He suggested that I turn the key on, (note that the GPR does not engage) and then disconnect the ICP, CPS or EBP sensor connectors to see if I hear the relay close. Did that and still no go. I'll be checking the grounding straps next.
Just thought of it because the 00 did the exact same thing.......Pull off both clamps on the battries & clean them off really good & then make sure they tightened down good & snug. Truck was dead on the spot with the battery cables & posts got all dirty. No WTS light or anything, about half an hour worth of cleaning & wrenching & it was running again.
I have good juice. The voltage in the cab reads 12.9 on the voltmeter built into the BrakeSmart brake controller. It is not behaving like a low voltage problem with the needles swinging, relays clicking etc. Everything works except the instrument cluster/ PCM.
This sounds like a condition I have run into before - I suspect your ignition switch has failed or you have lost power at circuit #325 from the instrument panel fuse box, fuse F2.64. This fuse feeds one of the ignition switch run circuits. The switched side feeds quite a few things but we are most importantly BOTH the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER and the PCM POWER RELAY... IDM and so on. The circuit splits after the ignition switch. Since the cluster and the engine controls are isolated through additional separate fuses further along the circuit we can surmise that the common point for both is at the ignition switch or before.
Access the ignition switch and disconnect the harness. Look at the face of the connector and check for alpha-numeric identifiers like A1 for example.
Pin #B5 is the power feed from fuse F2.64 and it is a dark blue wire with an orange tracer.
Pin #I1 is the switched output circuit and it is a red wire with a light green tracer.
Check for battery voltage at pin B5 - if no voltage is present check the fuse, fuse box and so on. If there is battery voltage, jump pin B5 to pin I1 and see if the PCM and IDM relays click. If this happens then you need a new ignition switch.
Thanx but I know what the fuse box looks like. I need a wiring diagram so I can trace the dark blue/orange wire back to a fuse or relay without tearing every wiring harness apart in the process.
when this link opens top center you will see Auto Repair refrence center logo..click on it..when it opens type in the word "Library" for user name and for the pass word.. click on the auto repair refrence again..click in year of truck..then click on ford then on for F350 super duty then click on select for 7.3 there you see a list and wiring diagrams is on it..there are a lot of them..you will need to surch but im sure they have one you looking for..I sure hope i helped you out...good luck...
I do not know where it is. Every fuse in the main fuse box is good. I have even swapped some out. But there is no fuse labeled 64 in the fuse box. That is why I needed the wiring diagram to see where this fuse is the and color of the wiring going to it.
i dont know if this has anything to do with anything,but there 4 relays,absolutely buried under the dash,about in the middle,you half to remove the whole dash to get to them,which took about 2 hrs.
but cant rember what we were looking at em for..memory slipping..
One of them is for the flasher and it can be reached, barely, by removing the radio or if you are a contortionist, by lying on your back and reaching up past the brake controller socket.
Well, we got our problem child going too.
Next question. On 02 models is there a code that can be set ,that once set will not allow it to restart unless the code is cleared first?? Only thing done after the IPR was cleaned (still no start) was it set for three or four days, still no- start. Replaced starter (due to burned up from too many extended cranks) Batteries were unhooked to replace starter, then after being hooked back up it fired right up??!!
After cleaning IPR the pressure went from 170 something to around 200 psi, (still too low) but it still did not even try to start. SO, is there a code for ICP too low that can disable the truck from running? They checked codes and I believe only ones were for low ICP. and one for low voltage on ICP sensor.
Dont need his truck mysteriously not running again.
You may need to start a new thread. I think this has already worn out it's interest and you need some new eyes on the problem.
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