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ARP's vs. H11 head studs

31K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  Evil Eye 
#1 ·
What's the difference between these brands of head studs? Is one better than the other? One easier to install?
 
#3 ·
Thanks Machinist for the link, but I'm still confused if there is a superior stud of the two.

Don Trapp of A1 Technologies says his company starts out with the basic alloy 4340 or 8740 that is 190-ksi minimum. From that point it goes up to 280 ksi. “The 4340 or 8740 is already far above an OEM fastener in strength and quality. We use a lot of H11, which is a toolsteel for Top Fuel, Funny Car and some in Top Alcohol and Injected Nitro classes use it also. This is a 240 ksi minimum graded material.”

The next step up from 4340 or 8740 steel is 1722 (AMS 6304). Manufacturer ARP calls it ARP 2000 and it’s all the same material, a 220 ksi material. The next step would be H11, which ARP calls L19. It too is the same material and also comes from Carpenter. Those are getting up to 240-250 ksi. You can go higher than that but it becomes brittle, according to Trapp.


What I'm reading is they are both the same?:confused:
 
#4 ·
There are basically 3 different grades to think about in this case - 8740 is the material that ARP uses for their basic stud and bolt kits and is the lower ksi rating, then there is ARP2000 which is a higher rating, one step up from that is H11 which ARP calls L19. So the H11 are the highest rating available, this translates into the ability to apply higher clamp load with the fastener, also that the higher rated stud will be harder to stretch.

ARP's stud for the 7.3L is made of ARP2000

Good/Better/Best

Either stud will do a fine job for this application.
 
#7 · (Edited)
what about the 625 new age material from arp it's said to be alot stronger than all the others. but twice the cost.
I use a lot of Custon 625 materials. Custom 625 is a premium Stainless Steel (well nickle based alloy) made by Carpenter technology. It is in the premeir class for studs that need to operate in an environment that is pron to hydrogen embrittlement and corrosion. Neither of which you will find in your heads. They would give better clamping than any listed above, but as you mentioned, the price is very high. The 7.3 will do fine with a set of ARP or quality made H-11 studs. Remember, just because the stud is made from H-11, if it is not processes and heat treatred correctly, then they won't do much good. Don't by E-Bay H-11 studs!! here is a link: http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=383b0bbe0360447e8ed21d2b1d2666f7
 
#6 ·
Basically anything stronger than a standard ARP stud is rated way higher than the material your block is made from. What's the point of some super high strength stud if the threads that hold it will pull out long before you come close to stretching the stud?

It's like using grade 8 bolts with grade 2 nuts. You will always be limited to the strength of the weakest link.
 
#8 ·
Well, it has nothing to do with the threads. The threads hold, it's the shank, or the part of bolt/stud from the head to the threads that stretches. There's enough threads to hold them in place, but when the bolt/stud stretches even a little, boom goes the gasket. I've never heard of a high strength stud pulling the threads out.
That's also why studs use a nut/washer on top and not a bolt head. You get a lot more clamping force with the stud not turning, but use the nut to tighten down.

I read somewhere that the H-11 have no corrosion resistance. The ARP studs have their proprietary coating that resists corrosion. Generally you can't plate high strength steels, so ARP has come up with an alternative.

By the numbers A-1/H-11 are technically stronger, but ARP studs work just as well and are usually cheaper, from what I have seen.
 
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