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BROKE the rear end!!!

4K views 46 replies 7 participants last post by  Zmann 
#1 ·
Hey guys so my cclb srw 4wd 05 F350 snapped the pinion out of the rear end.
I need to know what years of rear ends will work. I got on from a stop it to get in traffic and it locked the rear end up. Possibility I ruined something else? What are my options?
I'm in Beverly hills Fl if anyone is close by and can help.

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#2 ·
Wow, what size tires are you running and how hot is the tune?
Or did it break traction in water and hook up on dry pavement ??

I have ripped the pinion teeth off of a Dana 44 but were talking about a pretty big rear end on your truck...hmmmn
You should be able to regear it as long as the housing is intact and nothing is destroyed.
 
#3 ·
I have a edge juice with attitude, truck is pretty much stock other than a intake and exhaust. Dry pavement and making a left turn across 3 lanes into the turning lane.
Only running 325/70/17.
I'm looking to either swap in another rear end or put another ring and pinion in it.
So do the rear axles from a 1999 and up work? Same ratio of course

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#5 ·
I think you have some differences in the frame rail widths as well as speedo rings differences abs, gear ratio ect ect ect.
I would look into a similar year compatible from a wrecking yard or just go with new ring and pinion with bearings?
Someone familiar with what is compatible hopefully will chime in.
 
#7 ·
Same rear end, my guess would be it's a match look it over and do some research.
Get new brgs for it and reseal the pinion for sure.
What gear ratio did your buddy go with and how does he like it? I too have 38" tires and I should get rid of the 3:73 gear ratio myself.
 
#11 ·
What caused that?! Oil was in the rear end? You may have lost a part that wound up in the gear mesh and wham bam there you go.
Your buddies stuff should go right in that rear end, just replace all the bearings.
 
#12 ·
Well I'm on my way to pick up another rear end for $300. It took a chunk out of the limited slip housing, so no repairing this one.
It definitely had oil in it, it lost a lot of oil on the road and it still had a lot when I popped the cover off.
The rear end never made any noise, rode smooth until I can screeching to a halt.
Put it in 4wd to move it off the road and rear end was locked solid, but I could back up fine. So I agree a foreign material must have gotten in the mesh of gears.
Here's some carnage

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#13 ·
Yea that's a hunka hunka chunka of steel to shear off. $300 bones is not bad for the whole thing.
Good Luck with it, post up what came apart once you figure it out.
 
#16 ·
Got the new rear end. Oil is very clean and no major leaks. Just covered in some light dirt.
Now, unloading that out of a 08 6.4 with 8 inches of lift on 37" toyos, is not fun. That damn rear end is the heaviest thing ever.
It does have all the brake lines on it that I won't be needing if anyone wants them.
I noticed it has a different pinion hookup for the drive shaft, this has the older style where u-joint goes in with two straps over it.
This is something I can just swap over correct?

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#17 ·
I would think so, now I dont think these rear ends have crush sleeves in them but I would take a look to make sure.You want to maintain the amount of torque on the nut if so.
Now if the u/joint is the same size and is at the same distance from the front of housing I would use it.

You are right about the weight though, pretty hard to believe that much weight is hanging off of the springs and is a awful lot of unsprung weight. These trucks weren't made to ride like cadillacs they were made to pull them.
 
#19 ·
PS if you were just doing a pinion seal it is common to cheat and mark the nut/shaft and even count the turns in and out to get back to the same preload

however you don't have that luxury since you are swapping out a part that can have a thickness variable you should get a new crush sleeve /pinion seal and the required tourque is quite High IIRC so maybe drag it to a shop and let them swap it
 
#20 ·
Yea that is what I was going to say but I think he wants to swap out the u/j flange to what was on his truck. So the thickness of the flange may be different and not tighten up the same number of turns.

I would measure up what is on that axle and see if the driveline will saddle up to it, if so bolt it on and call it good after you throw some good synthetic oil into it.
 
#21 ·
OK, well thanks for all the replies guys. I know about the crush sleeve.
Weather is pretty ####ty these past two days. But I did get it pressure washed, and getting ready for paint.
Dragging it to a shop is out of the question. Not too many friends with trucks that could handle this thing.

What is the reasoning behind the two different drive shafts pinion hook ups?

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#22 ·
Did Ford do the offset rear shocks after 2005?? I seem to recall the rear shocks are offset on 2005-current trucks. The mounts on that axle are both on the back side.
 
#25 ·
=Juniorssrollin;2052209

What is the reasoning behind the two different drive shafts pinion hook ups?

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Ford has a jackload of drive-line combos

I am sure this wasn't the same year /cab/bed combo as yours

you are going to need the torque spec or at least get it back to "tight is close"

and then drive to a shop for the proper fix ..

I would want your old bolt on circular adapter if it were mine instead of the u bolts on the replacement axle
 
#26 ·
Yes the shocks currently on the truck are offset. But like stated they are just U-bolts that I will switch.
Any complications just getting rid of the circular adapter and going to conventional joint in the pinion with two straps?

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#28 ·
Losing length is never good...lol
Alright, I might just get the normal u joint setup installed and put it back to stock after it can move. I'll let a shop do the pinion

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