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Trans pops out of OD

5K views 34 replies 4 participants last post by  papadelogan 
#1 ·
I took my truck through an automated carwash a few weeks back. Immediately after leaving the carwash, the OD light was flashing, and she kept jumping out of OD down to 3rd, back in to OD, back out... ping pong ping pong.

Note that before this I had ZERO issues with the transmission.

So, today a fellow 'stroker was extremely generous and came to my house with his AE and ran some tests. Below are the codes that were pulled.

Note that I have unplugged that AIH so I think P0541 can be ignored.
I did the recall myself for the cruise control sensor that mounts to the brake master cylinder with the new sensor, not just the "fix it harness"
My cruise control works perfectly as well.

P0220
P0541
P0565
P0566
P0567
P0568
P0569
P0571
P0605
P0703
P1536

I'm going to continue searching for related information but was hoping someone might see my issue, connect with a code, and be able to help point me to a possible source of my issue. Thanks all.
 
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#2 ·
When mine did that it was the brake switch on brake pedal not sure if that will help you mess with the brake when it does that see if it goes back into od
 
#3 ·
I hadn't tried the brakes but it's a $10 part from the local O'Reilly's so I may just throw that one at it and see what happens. Thanks.

I want to check all the connections at the transmission - does anyone have a picture or schematic that shows the location of the sensors and/or electrical connections to the transmission?
 
#4 ·
Didn't have time today but I'll look in to this switch tomorrow. No one else has suggestions? With the number of 4R100's that get rebuilt/replaced, that's shocking.
 
#6 ·
I replaced the brake light switch and all seems to be working much better now. I need a long drive to confirm, and that might not be until Monday if I take her to work. Thanks for the replies.
 
#7 ·
Brake light switch was not the answer. When it starting jumping around gears, I did press on the brakes and that did not stop it. Lucky me... damn.
 
#9 ·
I don't have a schematic but these are the sensors that are on the driver's side of the transmission, yes? I believe that for non-PTO transmissions they are the same part.
 
#11 ·
Thanks Mark. I was thinking TSS.
 
#12 ·
So, I *think* I found my issue. I took the connector off the passenger side sensor (no idea what that one does) and it had junk inside. I cleaned out the goo and when trying to snap it back down... it wouldn't go. The piece that snaps in place to keep it sealed looked to be unable to secure it. Of course trying to get it flexed back in place broke it off completely. Awesome. So, now I need a new connector end to replace the busted one.

Anyone know of an online set of schematics with part numbers?

UPDATE: Looks like this is such a common problem that there is a repair kit: Part# 36445EAK
 
#13 ·
I ordered the repair kit from MTS Diesel Performance Parts, a division of Midwest Transmission Supply. I spoke to John (ext. 20) and he was incredibly helpful. They normally don't ship via USPS but since I was getting such a small part and I asked for it, they were able to accomodate me.

Best Price I found
Awesome customer service

I hope I don't need tranny work any time soon, but for anyone looking for this part, these are the guys to buy from IMO.

http://www.mts-diesel.com/product_info.php?products_id=360
 
#14 ·
I also ordered a tool to remove the pins from the existing connector since my wires seem to be in fine shape. If all checks out then I'm simply going to swap the wires from the old busted connector in to the new one. If things don't check out, then I'll do splice in the new one.

Parts should be at the house by Friday evening, but hopefully Thursday will be the day I get it all. I'll update with how things go and will try and get pics up too.
 
#15 ·
So, I removed the pins from the original plug and placed them in the new plastic connector from the repair kit. It snapped in place and the trans seems to shift better and not pop out of OD but the OD light now flashes constantly! I'm working to get the codes read again but I'm wondering if the port that the wiring plugs in to was somehow damaged?

Anyone have any idea how to remove that plug/port without dropping the transmission?
 
#16 ·
Take the pan off, then remove the solenoid body. The plug is part of the solenoid body. The transmission does not need to come out.
 
#17 ·
Sounds pretty straightforward.... I'll search but will ask anyway: Anyone have the torque values for the bolts holding the solenoid body in place? Torque for the pan bolts would be great too. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
So, today I pulled the solenoid body out of the transmission and found some residue/crap in the connector area. I cleaned that all out and used a Qtip to get every last bit of crud out. I put it all back together then (same filter, same fluid) and I still get a constantly flashing OD light!!

Also, I'm not 100% certain I got the connector fully seated. It's in a great spot for snapping together when it's on a workbench. Reality is that when it's in the truck, it's about the worst place to reach. If someone has a trick to getting these snapped back tight, I'm all ears. I'm going to try and find a wiring schematic to make sure the pins are in the proper place. I did them one by one, so it's not a real concern, but I'd like to check anyway.

I'm getting scanned again tomorrow, but I'm really getting tired of this situation. I may just spend the money and buy AE. Then again, I may just dowse the whole truck in gas and burn it to the ground.
 
#20 ·
Additional info now that I'm not so upset about this situation:

Since replacing the plug end, right after starting the truck, she starts normally, then after 1 or 2 seconds of running, the RPMs drop just a bit. Like it starts in "default" mode and then when some sensor doesn't respond, it causes the drop in RPMs.

I'm convinced this issue is electrical since it started immediately after an automated car wash. I just don't want a somewhat minor electrical gremlin to lead to a whole new transmission.
 
#22 ·
Hopefully I'll be finding that out this afternoon, if I can get her scanned. My wife has a Fusion so I may just end up buying AE for myself. I guess after 6 years and only needing to buy filters, fuel, tires, brakes, 1 VSS and 1 set of glowplugs I shouldn't complain...

I'll get her scanned ASAP and post up what I find. I'm going to try to pull & clean all the electrical connections on the tranny as well as the PCM, just to be sure.

Any suggestions from anyone on how to get the solenoid connector to click in to place?
 
#23 ·
UPDATE: CODES!

Since this morning I pulled out the PMT2 PCM that was in the truck and put the original NVK2 PCM back in. They're both DPC-422 generation PCMs so not a big difference. She ran fine with that PCM so I figured I'd go back to the original and check results. Here's what I got:

KOEO:

P0713
P0615
P1746

We cleared the codes, then started her up and ran a diagnostic test.

KOER:

P0713
P0541


The P0541 is from the removal of the Air Intake Heater, so I'm not worried about that, but the P0713.... that's the only one that came back up.
 
#24 ·
P0713 is a TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature) sensor failure. If you are having problems getting the connector to seat that will cause this code.
 
#25 ·
I did get the connector to click in place so my thoughts are these:

1. Broken/damaged for that sensor lead
2. Dead circuitry within the solenoid
3. PIN in connector not fully seating and or connecting to corresponding plug pin

When I cleaned the plug on the solenoid body it came out VERY clean. I was VERY surprised with how clean it came.

I checked the connector and I have been able to get it to lock in place. After getting it locked in place I removed it and inspected each pin and none looked damaged or recessed such that they would not make a connection

Does anyone know which pin in that plug is the connection for this functionality?
 
#26 ·
I should also mention that when I did test drive it the other night, the shifts were VERY firm, almost harsh. I'm leaning towards a toasted solenoid pack but would love to get input from others with more experience than I.

I've been researching 4R100 solenoid packs and am curious... would I have a PWM or NON-PWM solenoid pack? My truck has the ESOF if that makes a difference.
 
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